Carolyn Bain - Lonely Planet Denmark

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Vikings, Hans Christian Andersen, Lego and now New Nordic cuisine this is a small country with some big claims a place thats perfected the art of living well.

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Country home near Egeskov Slot, Funen

Its heart-warming to know theres still a country where the term fairy tale can be used freely from its most enduring literary legacy to its fine textbook castles. In a nutshell, Denmark gets it right: old- fashioned charm embraces the most avowedly forward-looking design and social developments, and wins it a regular chart-topping place on lists of both the most liveable and the happiest nations on earth. You wont have to search hard to find some much-prized hygge , an untranslatable and uniquely Danish trait that has a profound influence on the locals inestimable happiness. Hygge is social nirvana in Denmark: a sense of cosiness, camaraderie and contentment, when the worries of the world have been set aside.

The world first took notice of Denmark more than a millennium ago, when Danish Vikings took to the seas and ravaged vast tracts of Europe. How things have changed! These days Denmark is regarded as the epitome of a civilised society, and it punches well above its weight on many fronts: progressive politics, urban planning, sustainability, design, architecture, film and literature and now cuisine, thanks to the food worlds latest crush, the New Nordic culinary movement.

While many other countries are noticeable for the ever-increasing gap between the haves and have-nots, Denmark seems to be populated by the have enoughs, and the obviously rich and obviously poor are few and far between. This egalitarian spirit allows the best of the arts, architecture, eating and entertainment to be within easy reach of all. Indeed, the catchword for Denmark might well be inclusive everyone is welcome, everyone is catered to, be they young, old, gay, straight, male, female, and whether they travel with kids, pets or bikes in tow, or with a mobility issue or handicap. Cities are compact and user-friendly, infrastructure is clean and modern, and travel is a breeze.

Its true, Denmark doesnt have the stop-you-in-your-tracks natural grandeur of its neighbours, but its landscapes are understated pure and simple, often infused with an ethereal Nordic light. Such landscapes are reflected in the Danish design philosophy towards fashion, food, architecture, furniture and art. Simplicity of form and function come first, but not at the expense of beauty. And so youll find moments of quintessential Danish loveliness on a long sandy beach, beside a lake, admiring a Renaissance castle, on the bike lanes of Bornholm, or in a candlelit cafe that has perfected the art of hygge .

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Colourful facades of Christianshavn, Copenhagen

You may find it hard to suppress your envy for residents of Scandinavias coolest capital. While this 850-year-old harbour town () retains much of its historic good looks (think copper spires, cobbled squares and pastel-coloured gabled abodes), the focus here is on the innovative. Denmarks high-achieving capital is home to a thriving design scene, a futuristic metro system, and clean, green developments. Its streets are awash with effortlessly hip shops, cafes and bars; world-class museums and art collections; brave new architecture; and in 2011, no fewer than 10 Michelin-starred restaurants.

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Cafes at Nyhavn

New Nordic Cuisine

The term New Nordic cuisine is setting hearts aflutter on the international food scene, and gourmands are busy placing Copenhagen high on their food-fancying holiday itinerary. For two consecutive years (2010 and 2011), the Danish capital has been home to the worlds number one restaurant, Noma () that passionately embraces local and seasonal produce, and has taken Copenhagen (and, slowly, other parts of Denmark) from its humdrum pork-and-potatoes tradition to culinary dynamo.

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Dish at Noma restaurant

Cycling

Is Denmark the best nation for bicycle touring in the world? Probably, thanks to its extensive national network of cycle routes (), terrain that is either flat or merely undulating, and a culture strongly committed to two wheels. But you neednt embark on lengthy tours of the country to enjoy cycle touring. The cities are a breeze to pedal around, and many have a public bike-sharing scheme with free bike usage. Nearly 40% of Copenhagen commuters travel by cycle its easy to follow their lead.

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LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Bornholm

Bornholm () is a Baltic beauty, lying some 200km east of the Danish mainland, located closer to Germany and Sweden than to the rest of Denmark. This magical island holds a special place in the hearts of most Danes, and is beloved for its plentiful sunshine, glorious sandy beaches, endless cycle paths, iconic rundkirker (round churches), artistic communities, fish smokehouses and idyllic thatched villages. If thats not enough to lure you, the island is developing a reputation for outstanding restaurants and local edibles.

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Lighthouse, Bornholm

Legoland

The Happiest Place on Earth? Disneyland may lay claim to the slogan, but Legoland (), though considerably smaller, could be a contender. This is, after all, a theme park celebrating the toy of the century (as adjudged by Fortune magazine in 2000) in the country in which it was invented: Denmark, the worlds happiest nation (according to a Gallup World Poll). So youve got to believe Legoland will be something special and it is. And its just one of dozens of family-friendly amusement parks dotted around the country.