Anthony Ham - Lonely Planet Middle East

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The Middle East is one of historys grand epics a cradle of civilisations and a beautiful, complicated land thats home to some of the most hospitable people on the planet.

Ruins of Baalbek , Lebanon
GUIDO COZZI/SIME/4CORNERS

In the Middle East, history is not something you read about in books. Here, its a story written on the stones that litter the region, from the flagstones of old Roman roads to the building blocks of Ancient Egypt and the delicately carved tombs and temples from Petra to Baalbek. This is where humankind first built cities and learned to write, and it was from here that Judaism, Christianity and Islam all arose. From wonderfully preserved ruined cities to modern settlements whose origins date back to the dawn of time, from the aspirational architecture of the great faiths to conversations that touch on the astonishing complexity of a region where the past is always present, history is the heart and soul of the Middle East.

At some point on your visit to the Middle East, something will happen to challenge every stereotype youve ever heard about the regions people. Youll be sitting in a coffeehouse or looking lost in a labyrinth of narrow lanes when someone strikes up a conversation and, within minutes, invites you home to meet the family and share a meal. Or someone will simply approach and say with unmistakable warmth, Welcome. These spontaneous, disarming and utterly genuine words of welcome can occur anywhere. And when they do, they can suddenly (and forever) change the way you see the Middle East. Put simply, in this land of historical, architectural and all manner of other treasures, it may just be the people wholl live longest in your memory.

The Middle Easts cities read like a roll-call of historical heavyweights: Jerusalem, Damascus, Beirut, Cairo, stanbul, Erbil. Aside from ranking among the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth, these ancient-modern metropolises are places to take the pulse of a region, from the latest instalments in the gripping drama of the Arab Spring to Iraqi Kurdistans headlong rush into the future. Beyond city limits, the Middle East is a land of mighty rivers (the Nile, Euphrates), even mightier deserts (the Sahara and peerless Wadi Rum) and green landscapes of exceptional beauty. Exploring these wilderness areas from snow-capped summits in Turkey and Lebanon to the kaleidoscopic waters of the Red Sea only adds to the appeal of the region. The message is simple. Forget the clichs that masquerade as Middle Eastern truth a visit here is one of the most varied and soulful travel experiences on earth.

Muslim Quarter , Jerusalem, Israel & the Palestinian Territories
STEFANO AMANTINI/SIME/4CORNERS

Petra, Jordan

Ever since Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt rediscovered this spectacular site in 1812, the ancient Nabataean city of Petra has been drawing the crowds and with good reason. This is one of the Middle Easts most treasured attractions and when the sun sets over the honeycombed landscape of tombs, carved facades, pillars and golden sandstone cliffs, its a hard-hearted visitor who is left unaffected by its magic. Allow a couple of days to do the site justice and to visit the main monuments at optimum times of the day.

Monastery (Al-Deir), Petra
MASSIMO RIPANI/SIME/4CORNERS

Pyramids of Giza, Egypt

Towering over both the urban sprawl of Cairo and the desert plains beyond, the Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx are at the top of every travellers itinerary. Bring plenty of water, an empty memory card and a lot of patience! Youll have to fend off hordes of people pushing horse rides and Bedouin headdresses in order to enjoy this ancient funerary complex, but no trip to Egypt is complete without a photo of you in front of the last surviving ancient wonder of the world.

CHRIS MELLO/LONE PLANET IMAGES

Old City of Damascus, Syria

One of numerous Middle Eastern candidates for the title of the worlds oldest continuously inhabited city, old Damascus combines so many of the regions defining elements. It boasts a treasure trove of sublime Islamic architecture in all its grace and splendour, a mosaic of cultures and faiths, and some of the finest and most varied cuisine from across the Middle East. And it is home to the Damascenes, who rank among the friendliest and most hospitable people on earth.

Souq al-Hamidiyya, Damascus
GRAHAM CROUCH/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Dome of the Rock, Israel & the Palestinian Territories

Few places on earth excite emotions to quite the same extent as the Dome of the Rock . Sacred to Muslims, Jews and Christians alike it was said to be here that Abraham showed his readiness to sacrifice his son to God, and from here that Mohammed ascended to heaven its an epicentre of religious convergence and conflict. Its also home to a gold-plated mosque of singular beauty, built to represent humankinds yearning for God.

LUIGI VACCARELLA/SIME/4CORNERS

Cruising the Nile, Egypt

The Nile is Egypts lifeline, an artery that feeds the entire country, from south to north. Only by setting adrift on it can you appreciate its importance and its beauty, and more practically, only by boat can you see some archaeological sites as they were meant to be seen. Sailing is the slowest and most relaxing way to go, but even from the deck of a multistorey floating hotel youre likely to glimpse the magic. For tips on choosing a cruise, .

Feluccas on the Nile, Aswan
RICHARD LANSON /LONELY PLANET IMAGES