Zora ONeill - Lonely Planet Egypt

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Perhaps no other people in the world say Welcome so frequently and mean it every time. Egypts ancient civilisation still awes, but todays Egyptians are pretty amazing, too.

Camels at the Pyramids of Giza ()
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Loom weaver, Aswan ()
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With sand-covered tombs, austere pyramids and towering Pharaonic temples, Egypt brings out the explorer in all of us. Visit the Valley of the Kings in Luxor, where Tutankhamuns tomb was unearthed, and see the glittering finds in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. Hop off a Nile boat to visit a waterside temple, or trek into the desert to find the traces of Roman trading outposts. You never know your donkey might stumble across yet another find, just as many previous discoveries were made.

Egypt once ruled an empire from al- Qahira Cairo, the City Victorious. The metropolis is packed with soaring minarets, and medieval schools and mosques, some of the greatest architecture of medieval Islam. At the same time, Egypts native Christians, the Copts, have carried on their traditions that in many respects such as the churchs liturgical language and the traditional calendar link back to the time of the pharaohs. Tap into the history in remote monasteries and ancient churches.

That empty beach with nothing but a candlelit cabin, and a teeming coral reef offshore: theyre waiting for you in Egypt. The coast along the Red Sea has a rugged desert beauty above the waterline and a psychedelic vibrancy below rewarding to explore on a multiday outing to one of the globes great wreck dives or on an afternoons snorkelling jaunt along a coral wall.

Whether youre watching the sun rise from the lofty heights of Mt Sinai (Gebel Musa) or the shimmering horizon from the comfort of a hot spring in Siwa Oasis, Egypts desert landscapes are endlessly fascinating good thing, because they make up 95% of the country. In a land where time is measured by dynasties, and distance by the setting sun, there are plenty of opportunities to relax into the infinite expanse of sand and sea.

Egypt is the most traveller-friendly country in the Middle East. This means youll enjoy cheap buses, decent budget places to sleep, English spoken to some degree everywhere and even good cold beers. It also means that if you ever get into a jam, an Egyptian will likely be there to help you out. Then again, an Egyptian will also be there to sell you some papyrus or perfume an undeniable reality of travel here. But the souvenir sales are a minor irritant when compared with the chance to connect with some of the worlds most generous people.

Pyramids of Giza

Towering over the urban sprawl of Cairo and the desert plains beyond, the Pyramids of Giza () and the Sphinx are at the top of every travellers itinerary. Bring lots of water, an empty memory card and plenty of patience! Youll have to fend off lots of people pushing horse rides and Bedouin headdresses in order to enjoy this ancient funerary complex, but no trip to Egypt is complete without a photo of you in front of the last surviving ancient wonder of the world.

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Luxor

With the greatest concentration of ancient Egyptian monuments anywhere in Egypt, Luxor () rewards time spent here. You can spend days or weeks around this town, walking through the columned halls of the great temples on the east bank of the Nile, such as the Ramesseum, or climbing down into the tombs of pharaohs in the Valley of the Kings on the west bank. Time spent watching the sun rise over the Nile or set behind the Theban hills are some of Egypts unforgettable moments.

Memorial Temple of Hatshepsut ()
ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Cruising the Nile

The Nile is Egypts lifeline, the artery that runs through the entire country, from south to north. Only by setting adrift on it can you appreciate its importance and its beauty, and more practically, only by boat can you see some archaeological sites as they were meant to be seen. Sailing is the slowest and most relaxing way to go, but even from the deck of a multistorey floating hotel youre likely to glimpse the magic. For tips on choosing a cruise, .

IZZET KERIBAR / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Mt Sinai

It may not be the highest of Sinais craggy peaks, but Mt Sinai (). Its sturdy Byzantine fortifications are built over the spot where Moses is believed to have witnessed the burning bush.

St Katherines Monastery
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Dahab

Laid-back Dahab (), a midsized town near the southern tip of the Sinai, is Egypts version of a chill pill, the place for ruin-fatigued travellers to cast off the history lessons and recuperate in one of the small-scale beachfront hotels. Once your batteries have recharged, dive into Dahabs famous underwater world or organise some desert adventure fun. Though you may find youre also seduced by the joy of doing nothing for a few more days.

RICARDO DE MATTOS / ISTOCK

Desert Safaris

Whether you travel by 4WD, camel or foot, for a couple of hours or a couple of weeks, youll be able to taste the simple beauty and isolation of wildest Egypt. The highlights of an excursion in Egypts Western Desert include camping among the surreal formations of the White Desert ().