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Gabriel Rucker - Le Pigeon: Cooking at the Dirty Bird

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Book:
Le Pigeon: Cooking at the Dirty Bird
Author:
Gabriel Rucker / Meredith Erickson / Lauren Fortgang / Andrew Fortgang / Tom Colicchio
Publisher:
Ten Speed Press
Genre:
Books / Home and family
Year:
2013
Rating:
4 / 5
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Le Pigeon: Cooking at the Dirty Bird: summary, description and annotation

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This debut cookbook from James Beard Rising Star Chef Gabriel Rucker features a serious yet playful collection of over 125 recipes from his phenomenally popular Portland restaurant.
Dining at Le Pigeon is a celebration of high and low extremes in cooking: Buffalo hot wings are elevated with the substitution of sweetbreads, a simple potato salad gets dirty with the addition of chicken livers, and a $3 Coors appears next to premier cru Burgundies on the wine list. Serious yet playful, this debut cookbook recounts the ascension of James Beard Awardwinning chef Gabriel Rucker to the top of the Portland food scene and the shift of a modest neighborhood eatery to a must-visit destination. Offal-centric and meat-heavy, but by no means dogmatic, this collection of 125 recipes offers uncommon delicacies like Elk Tongue Stroganoff and Rabbit and Eel Terrine, envelope-pushing twists on classics like Beef Cheeks Bourguinon and Lamb Belly BLT, and surprisingly uncomplicated dishes like Simple Roasted Pigeon, Leek Carbonara, and Pork Tacos.
Featuring wine recommendations from sommelier Andrew Fortgang, stand-out desserts from pastry chef Lauren Fortgang, and stories about the restaurants raucous, seat-of-the-pants history by writer Meredith Erickson, Le Pigeon combines the wild and the refined in a unique, progressive, and delicious style.

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Le Pigeon Cooking at the Dirty Bird - photo 1

Le Pigeon Cooking at the Dirty Bird - photo 2

Copyright 2013 by Gabriel Rucker Andrew Fortgang and Meredith Erickson Ph - photo 3

Copyright 2013 by Gabriel Rucker Andrew Fortgang and Meredith Erickson - photo 4

Copyright 2013 by Gabriel Rucker Andrew Fortgang and Meredith Erickson - photo 5

All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

All illustrations are by Chad Crowe with the exception of , by Gabriela Ramos.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:
Rucker, Gabriel, 1981
Le Pigeon : cooking at the dirty bird / Gabriel Rucker, Meredith Erickson, Lauren Fortgang, and Andrew Fortgang; photographs by David Reamer.
pages cm
Includes index.
1. Le Pigeon (Restaurant) 2. CookingOregonPortland. 3. RestaurantsOregonPortland. I. Erickson, Meredith, 1980 II. Fortgang, Lauren, 1979 III. Fortgang, Andrew, 1979 IV. Reamer, David. V. Title.
TX715.R9245 2013
641.59795dc23

2013008703

eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-445-0
Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-444-3

v3.1

CONTENTS

FOREWORD

BY TOM COLICCHIO

There is a moment in time in the career of a chef that is unlike any that has come before or will come again. Youre not yet known. Perhaps youre a sous-chef, bouncing around from restaurant to restaurant. Then you take a risk and open a small kitchen and suddenly youre cooking whatever you want, coming up with four new dishes a day inspired by anything and everythinga wild mushroom you found backpacking over the weekend, a news item about Bavaria from that morningits a wildly creative time. From early morning until very, very early the next morning, youre working and youre having the time of your life. Its a small window of time during which this all happens, after you plunk down the rent on your little space and before Food & Wine magazine discovers you and everything changes.

Soon there will be more expectations from the press and from the food industry. You suddenly realize that youre now responsible for the livelihoods of a lot of people who are counting on you to keep this thing going. And all these considerations begin to encroach on your ability to create, to make decisions based solely on what you want to do with food. You must begin to not only allow these decisions to influence the food you make, but also to take up time that was previously devoted to creativity. Now there is a lot more to your work as a chef than simply getting into a kitchen, banging around a lot of pots and pans, and being creative. Theres no going back, and you need to find new ways forevermore to remain relevant.

I think this process happens for people in any creative field, by the way. Its ironic that the very thing that will sustain your ability to createa modicum of recognitionoften leads to growth that then, in turn, inhibits your ability to create. Business factors aside, you start becoming self-conscious, more deliberate. Its important to recognize this shift so you can figure out a way to preserve the playfulness and fearlessness of that time when all you had to do was bring yourselfall of yourselfinto the kitchen and play.

Gabriel Rucker is living in this moment and loving it. Le Pigeon has provided a showcase for Ruckers daily inspirations for the last five years, and through this book, we get a front-row seat to the evolution of a chefand a restauranton the cusp of very big changes. The wild creativity that happens during this period in a chefs career is often fast, furious, and unpredictable. That Gabriel has managed to put these first few years of recipes down on paper is a feat by itself and a spectacular benefit to Le Pigeon and Little Birds legions of loyal fans. Its great when you can actually recognize that youre living this moment while youre in it. Gabriel does, and thats what hes celebrating in this cookbook. Its clear that he has found a way to keep his food irreverent and fun.

But theres a sub-story here, too. One that starts with a scrappy fifteen-year-old who showed up in my kitchen some years ago, insisting that he wanted to work with me for the summer. He seemed bright, and so I gave Andy Fortgang a chance. He was bright. He was also hardworking, trustworthy, and not at all shy about taking initiative. Andy worked in my restaurant kitchen over summers and vacations throughout high school and post college, after he realized that hed found his calling in the front of the house. When Andy told me that he had an opportunity to be part of something new in Portland, I was sad for me and excited for him.

I wasnt surprised to learn that Gabriel hired Andy over the phone and put him to work at Le Pigeon the very first day they met. I suppose Andy just has that effect on chefs. And its to Gabriels credit that he recognized in Andy the other half of the equation that equals a successful restaurant (or two and some day, maybe more). Andy has created the structure that allows Gabriel to focus on the food. And along with that structure, he brought along his talented wife, Lauren, who became the pastry chef at Le Pigeon and Little Bird.

Gabriel and Andy have been going through this crazy time of round-the-clock uninhibited inventiveness together: Andy is the Packard to Gabriels Hewlitt, the Orville to his Wilbur, the Jerry to his Ben (the Stimpy to his Ren? Fill in your own partnershipyou get the point), and theyve chosen to preserve a luscious, frenetic, passionate snapshot of it. Youre holding it in your hands.

Some days youre the pigeon. Some days youre the statue. ANONYMOUS

INTRODUCTION

FIVE YEARS OF LE PIGEON

Andrew Fortgang and Gabriel Rucker met through Craigslist. True story.

As Gabriel tells it: It was 2007 and I had been running Le Pigeon (aka LP) for a little more than a year with my partners in crime, Erik Van Kley and Su Lien Pino. Each day was a marathon, starting with brunch and ending (later and later) at the B-Side bar next to LP drinking Powers Whiskey, exhausted and staring at each other with disbelief that we had pulled off another night of ninety-plus covers (were tiny, only thirty-five seats). The phone was ringing nonstop and local and national press were beginning to descend. But I was so busy I hardly noticed.

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