OTHER TITLES IN THIS SERIES:
Beyond Disney: The Unofficial Guide to Universal Orlando, SeaWorld, and the Best of Central Florida
Mini Mickey: The Pocket-Sized Unofficial Guide to Walt Disney World
The Unofficial Guide Color Companion to Walt Disney World
The Unofficial Guide to Britains Best Days Out: Theme Parks & Attractions
The Unofficial Guide to Disneyland
The Unofficial Guide to Disneyland Paris
The Unofficial Guide to Dubai
The Unofficial Guide to Walt Disney World
The Unofficial Guide to Walt Disney World with Kids
The Unofficial Guide to Washington, D.C.
Please note that prices fluctuate in the course of time and that travel information changes under the impact of many factors that influence the travel industry. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information throughout this book, and the contents of this publication are believed to be correct at the time of printing. Nevertheless, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions, for changes in details given in this guide, or for the consequences of any reliance on the information provided by the same. Assessments of attractions and so forth are based upon the authors own experiences; therefore, descriptions given in this guide necessarily contain an element of subjective opinion, which may not reflect the publishers opinion or dictate a readers own experience on another occasion. Readers are invited to write the publisher with ideas, comments, and suggestions for future editions.
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MAPS and ILLUSTRATIONS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
THE PEOPLE OF LAS VEGAS love their city and spare no effort to assist a writer trying to dig beneath the facade of flashing neon. It is important to them to communicate that Las Vegas is a city with depth, diversity, and substance. Dont just write about our casinos, they demand; take the time to get to know us.
We made every effort to do just that, enabled each step of the way by some of the most sincere and energetic folks a writer could hope to encounter. Thanks to gambling pro Anthony Curtis for his tips on the best places to play, and to Cam Usher for her work capturing the essence of Las Vegas hotels. Xania V. Woodman, nightlife editor at seven magazine, handled the nightlife scene.
Restaurant critic Max Jacobson ate his way through dozens of new restaurants. Jim McDonald of the Las Vegas Police Department shared his experiences and offered valuable suggestions for staying out of trouble. Larry Olmsted evaluated Las Vegas golf courses, Chris McBeath created our spa chapter, and forest ranger Debbie Savage assisted us in developing material on wilderness recreation. Thanks also to Fred Hazleton, who reviewed shows and inspected hotels.
Much gratitude to Steve Jones, Annie Long, Molly Merkle, Holly Cross, Darcie Vance, Ritchey Halphen, and Ann Cassar, the pros who turned all this effort into a book.
INTRODUCTION
ON a PLANE to LAS VEGAS
I NEVER WANTED TO GO TO LAS VEGAS. Im not much of a gambler and have always thought of Las Vegas as a city dedicated to separating folks from their money. As it happens, however, I have some involvement with industries that hold conventions and trade shows there. For some years I was able to persuade others to go in my place. Eventually, of course, it came my turn to go, and I found myself aboard a Delta jumbo jet on my first trip to Las Vegas.
Listening to the banter of those around me, I became aware that my fellow passengers were divided into two distinct camps. Some obviously thought themselves on a nonstop flight to paradise and could not have been happier. Too excited to remain seated, they cavorted up and down the aisles, clapping one another on the back. The other passengers, by contrast, groused and grumbled. These people, as despondent as sailors en route to a VD clinic, lamented their bad luck and cursed those who had made a trip to such a place necessary.
To my surprise, I thoroughly enjoyed Las Vegas. I had a great time without gambling and have been back many times with never a bad experience. The people are friendly, the food is good, the hotels are among the nicest in the country, its an easy town to find your way around, and there is plenty to do (24 hours a day, if you are so inclined).
Its hard to say why so many folks have such strong feelings about Las Vegas (even those who have never been there). Among our research team, we had people willing to put their kids in boarding school for a chance to go, while others begged off to have root-canal surgery or prune their begonias. A third group wanted to go very badly but maintained the pretense of total indifference, reminding me of people who own five TVs yet profess never to watch television. They clearly had not mustered the courage to come out of the closet.
What I discovered during my first and subsequent visits is that the nongambling public doesnt know very much about Las Vegas. Many people cannot see beyond the gambling, cannot see that there could possibly be anything of value in Las Vegas for nongamblers or those only marginally interested in gambling.
When you ask these people to describe their ideal vacation, they wax eloquent about lazy days relaxing in the sun, playing golf, enjoying the luxury of resort hotels, eating in fine restaurants, sightseeing, shopping, and going to the theater. Outdoor types speak no less enthusiastically about fishing, boating, hiking, and, in winter, skiing. As it happens, Las Vegas offers all of this. Gambling is just the tip of the iceberg in Las Vegas, but its all many people can see.
Las Vegas is, of course, about gambling, but theres so much more. Vegas has sunny, mild weather two-thirds of the year, some of the finest hotels and restaurants in the world, the most diversified celebrity and production-show entertainment to be found, unique shopping, internationally renowned golf courses, and numerous attractions. For the outdoor enthusiast, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, Lake Mead National Recreation Area, and Toiyabe National Forest offer some of the most exotic and beautiful wilderness resources in North America.