Lolis Eric Elie - Treme: Stories and Recipes from the Heart of New Orleans

Copyright 2013 by Home Box Office, Inc. All rights reserved. HBO and related trademarks are the property of Home Box Office, Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

ISBN 978-1-4521-0969-5 (ebook)

The Library of Congress has catloged the print edition as follows:

Elie, Lolis Eric.

Treme : stories and recipes from the heart of New Orleans / Lolis Eric Elie ; recipe photographs by Ed Anderson.

pages cm

Includes index.

ISBN 978-1-4521-0969-5 (alk. paper)

1. Cooking, AmericanLouisiana style. 2. Treme (Television program) 3. CookingLouisianaNew Orleans. I. Simon, David, 1960- II. Bourdain, Anthony. III. Title. IV. Title: Stories and recipes from the heart of New Orleans.

TX715.2.L68E45 2013

641.59763dc23

2012044421

, Emerils Tuna and Butter Lettuce Wraps: Recipe reproduced courtesy of Emeril Lagasse, copyright MSLO, Inc., all rights reserved.

, Momofukus Poached Eggs with Caviar: from Momofuku by David Chang and Peter Meehan, Photographs by Gabriele Stabile, copyright 2009 by David Chang and Peter Meehan. Photographs copyright 2009 by Gabriele Stabile. Used by permission of Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc. Any third party use of this material, outside of this publication, is prohibited. Interested parties must apply directly to Random House, Inc. for permission.

, Le Bernardins Pounded Tuna with Foie Gras: from Le Bernardin Cookbook by Maguy Le Coze and Eric Ripert, copyright 1998 by Maguy Le Coze and Eric Ripert. Used by permission of Doubleday, a division of Random House, Inc. Any third party use of this material, outside of this publication, is prohibited. Interested parties must apply directly to Random House, Inc. for permission.

, Rodekool met Appels and Hachee Met Leffe Bier: adapted with permission from The Dutchmans Kitchen by Dirk-Jan Zonneveld. Courtesy of Dirk-Jan Zonneveld.

: recipe from Ian Julian.

, Ellis Marsaliss quote: reprinted with permission of Ellis Marsalis.

, Martin Brothers letter to striking Streetcar Workers: Clovis J. and Bennie Martin to the Striking Carmen of Division 194, August 6, 1929, New Orleans Street Railway Union records, Louisiana Research Collection, Tulane University.

, Joe Logdson quote: from oral history, given by Dana Logsdon on 9/3/2012.

, Ella Brennans quote: reprinted with permission from Ella Brennan.

TRADEMARKS

: Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce is a registered trademark of Huy Fong Foods, Inc.

: Crystal is a registered trademark of Baumer Foods, Inc.

: Pernod is a registered trademark of Pernod Ricard.

: Wondra is a registered trademark of General Mills Marketing, Inc.

: Bobs Red Mill is a registered trademark of Bobs Red Mill Natural Foods, Inc.

: Steens is a registered trademark of C. S. Steen Syrup Mill, Inc.

: Huy Fong is a registered trademark of Huy Fong Foods, Inc.

: Grand Marnier is a registered trademark of Societe des Produits Marnier-Lapostolle.

: Tabasco is a registered trademark of McIlhenny Company.

: Chef Paul Prudhommes Poultry Magic Seasoning Blend is a registered trademark of Magic Seasoning Blends, LLC.

: Zatarains is a registered trademark of Zatarains Brands, Inc.

: Mandarine Napoleon is a registered trademark of Koninklijke De Kuyper B.V.

: St-Germain is a registered trademark of Cooper Spirits, International.

: Angostura is a registered trademark of Angostura International Limited.

: Kitchen Bouquet is a registered trademark of The HV Food Products Company.

: McCormick is a registered trademark of McCormick & Company, Inc.

: Guinness is a registered trademark of Diageo Ireland.

: Hellmanns is a registered trademark of CPC International, Inc.

: Chef Paul Prudhommes Shrimp Magic Seasoning Blend is a registered trademark of Magic Seasoning Blends, LLC.

: Matouks West Indian is a registered trademark of Highgate Investment Corp.

: Maraschino Originale Luxardo is a registered trademark of Girolamo Luxardo S.P.A.

: Herbsaint is a registered trademark of The Sazerac Company, Inc.

: Legendre is a registered trademark of The Sazerac Company, Inc.

: Peychauds is a registered trademark of The Sazerac Company, Inc.

: Haymans Old Tom Gin is a registered trademark of Hayman Distillers.

: Benedictine is a registered trademark of Bacardi & Company Limited.

: Chambord is a registered trademark of Brown-Forman Corporation.

: Domaine de Canton is a registered trademark of 750 ML, LLC.

: Bulleit is a registered trademark of Diageo North America, Inc.

: Makers Mark is a registered trademark of Makers Mark Distillery, Inc.

: Rittenhouse is a registered trademark of Heaven Hill Distilleries, Inc.

: Hendricks Gin is a registered trademark of William Grant & Sons Limited.

Designed by Public

Series photographs by Paul Schiraldi

Food styling by Lillian Kang

Prop styling by Christine Wolheim

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To the cooks of New Orleans, the women and men who tend the home fires; who shuck the oysters and stir the stock pots; who peel the potatoes and the shrimp before the chef arrives; who sell their pralines and calas and hot sausage sandwiches at second-line parades and church suppers; who tend the little patches of mustard greens and Creole tomatoes and fence-buttressed vines of mirlitons; who share their food with family and friends and neighbors and strangers and the members on the sick and shut-in list; who understood and taught us that red beans and rice is a taste of home, a sacramental dish, a statement of what is good and necessary about New Orleans, and a full-throated declaration about why rebuilding this city and its culture was and remains a matter of great urgency.

The city of New Orleans has, rather famously over time, attracted a diverse, some might even say crazy-ass, mix of characters. Its one of the things we all love about the place: its black, its white, its Spanish, Indian, French, Canadian, Italian, Africanwho the hell knows? Whatever it is today, its a strange and wonderful mutation, a hell broth of colors, flavors, and influences that could only have happened here. It is the most uniquely American of cities because, lets face it, what came out of New Orleans, what started there, jazz, for instance, could have happened nowhere else.

Like very few other great cities around the world, the price of admission to New Orleanswhat qualifies one for citizenship, so to speakis simply a deep and abiding love for the place: a need to live there no matter what. What unites the characters on the show Treme is that same love for a place; an attitude, a culture where delicious food and great music are birthrights.

You could, I suggest, say similar things about professional cooksalso a subculture with a tendency to attract misfits, the mad, the passionate, refugees, fugitives, seekers, and sensualists. They could survive in no other industry.