Spicer - Crescent City Cooking: Unforgettable Recipes from Susan Spicers New Orleans

I guess publishing a first book is a little like winning your first Oscarthere are so many people to thank.

Let me begin with Janis Donnaud, my agent, whose combination of Southern quirkiness and New York smarts was just what I needed. I appreciate her confidence on my behalf and her patience with my leisurely Louisiana ways.

To Paula Disbrowe (Norman), my co-writer and friend: it was so much fun to work on this with you. Thanks for working through my angst and helping me say what I wanted to say in a better, smarter, and funnier way. I look forward to granitas and pedicures for years to come

Thanks to all the folks at Knopf, but especially Paul Bogaards and Sarah Robinson for taking the chance on a first-timer almost past her prime. They embraced the book, gave me lots of creative freedom, and helped me make the most of my personal style.

Thank you to my photographer, Chris Granger, who did a beautiful job of visually conveying not only my food but the charm and funk of the French Quarter.

And to Maria Wisdom, food stylist and recipe tester, for her eye, her enthusiasm, and her friendship.

Many thanks to my partner and friend of seventeen years at Bayona, Regina Keever, who wonders why this book took so long! I am proud of the beautiful restaurant we have created together, and grateful for a partnership that works so well.

Thanks to all my siblings: Tom, for sourcing the mud; Alice (and Kent), for stepping in when Maria couldn't be there; Bettina, for all the computer hours; Hank, for all the advice (wanted and unwanted!); Diana, for lifting me up early on; and Doris, for your acuity and perspective. But mostly, thanks for all the love, laughter, and support through the years. I love you all.

Thanks to my stepfather, Joachim, for bravely stepping into the family, for all his many kindnesses to me, and for making such a happy life with my mom.

In addition, special thanks to:

My in-laws, the Martinsons (especially Rita and Billy, and Allen and Mimi), who welcomed me into the family and opened their homes and hearts after Katrina.

My partners in Herbsaint: Donald Link, Bill Hammack, and Janice Parmalee.

Sandy Whann, my partner at WildFlour Breads, and to Connie, Angelo, Jos, and Linda, for keeping it going.

The chefs who taught me and had faith in me, Daniel Bonnot and Roland Durand.

The folks at Bayona: Jane Ruppel, Ginger Havard, Jenni Lynch, Michael Puck Hopkins, Shannon Skarda, Jeremy Gresham, Hall Ford, Christy Phebus, Paul Chell, Thomas Baptiste, Mr. Burnett, Kirk Ricks, Lynell, Chris Meyers, Pablo, Cameron Magee, Jeff Eustis, Jerryca Faucheaux and Nat Carrier, Howard, Kerri Dean, Sam, James Cannon (father and son), Charles, Stephen, Heidi, JP, Chris E., Bubbles, and all our wonderful cooks, waiters, bartenders, and hosts, past and present. Damon and Frank, we miss you.

Megan Roen, my long-time pastry chef who inspired us all and helped me test the dessert recipes.

All my former sous chefs (and friends): Loretta Keller, Michelle Nugent, Jody Naccarato Bush, Greg Hoss Collier, Ashley Hykes McGee, John Harris, Adam Yorty, Stephen Hassinger, Scott Freer, Corbin Evans, Kate Paterson Applebaum, Jim Morris, Ronald Carr, Pat King, Andy Friend, Dimitri Phyllos.

Daniel Walters, John Arbizzani, Jim Bremer, Ken Jackson, David Payne, Shannon Fristoe, Mark Hightower, Dan Brown, Glen Vesh.

All our regularsthanks so much for keeping us going all these years.

All the purveyors who send me the good stuff.

But most of all, love and thanks to Chip, Evelyn, and Kelly, for giving my life meaning.

INTRODUCTION

Crescent City Gal

On a warm spring evening in 1979, in a relatively quiet corner of the French Quarter of New Orleans, I ambled down Rue Dauphine, past a restaurant housed in a 200-year-old Creole cottage. I was drawn to its windows by the warm glow emanating from the place and the happy bustle inside. I remember peering in and wondering what goes on in such an enchanting place? I happened to be on my way to my first cooking job. At that point in my fledgling career, the excitement, romance, and chaos of the restaurant world were still mysteriousbut they were already intoxicating. Little did I know that several years and countless gastronomic adventures later, that restaurant would become my own.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. Born in Key West, Florida, I was one of seven well-fed children. I first learned the pleasure of cooking from my Danish mothershe was in the kitchen all the time, but her work there never seemed like drudgery. My family settled in Holland for several years on account of my dad's job as a naval officer, and Mom learned to cook everything from Indonesian stir-fries to French crpes and Danish open-faced sandwiches. Thanks to her, I developed a taste for exotic flavors early on.

We moved to New Orleans when I was seven. As a kid, I always felt a little bit offbeat, a little left of center. I loved music, books, movies, art, and of course food. I dreamed of a bohemian lifestyle, which New Orleans seems to foster. When I played Barbie, it was Career Girl Barbie with an apartment, a cool job, and a convertible. I never fantasized about getting married. I was independent and I meant to stay that way.

After high school, I actually toyed with the idea of becoming a cook, but my father put the kibosh on thatno daughter of his was going to have a mindless blue-collar job. So I left home at seventeen and spent several years trolling for the right outlet for my passions. I lived in San Francisco and Massachusetts. I worked in a record store, got jobs as a waitress, secretary, and typesetter, but nothing engaged me. I also traveled throughout Europe, eating curry and fried fritters in London, and crudit plates and crpes in Francenow, that I enjoyed!

But I could never stay away from New Orleans for very long. I made a point to come back each spring, for Mardi Gras, Jazz Fest, and the food (plenty of fried oysters, crayfish, and sweet shrimp), and because that's when the city is at its most lush and the sweet olives are in bloom. During one such spring, my father had health problems, so I stayed on to take care of him. And then I needed to find a job.