Dedicated to the
loving memory of my mother
whose perseverance and
talents gave me something
to write about.
Mrs. Polly Wee nee
Cheang Siew Geok Neo
(19302001)
Growing Up in a
Nonya Kitchen
Asian Recipes from My Mother
Editor: Brenton Wong
Designer: Lynn Chin
Photographer: Joshua Tan, Elements By The Box
Recipe Testing & Food Preparation: Dorothy Wong
Photo Credits
Singapore Heritage Society: , image of Cheang Hong Lim from the book One Hundred
Years History of the Chinese in Singapore by Sir Song Ong Siang
Cornell University Library: , image of Mrs Cheang Hong Lim
Chan Eng Thai (great grandson of Madam Chia Gin Tee): , images of Cheang Jim Chuan,
Chan Kim Hong Neo and Chia Gin Tee
Singapore Press Holdings: , newspaper article
All other images courtesy of author
First published 2012
Reprinted 2013
Copyright 2012 Sharon Wee and Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited
Published by Marshall Cavendish Cuisine
An imprint of Marshall Cavendish International
All rights reserved
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any
form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the
prior permission of the copyright owner. Request for permission should be addressed to the Publisher,
Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited, 1 New Industrial Road, Singapore 536196.
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Limits of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: The Author and Publisher of this book have used their best
efforts in preparing this book. The Publisher makes no representation or warranties with respect to the
contents of this book and is not responsible for the outcome of any recipe in this book. While the
Publisher has reviewed each recipe carefully, the reader may not always achieve the results desired due
to variations in ingredients, cooking temperatures and individual cooking abilities. The Publisher shall in
no event be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damage, including but not limited to
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National Library Board, Singapore Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
Wee, Sharon (Sharon Beng Ling)
Growing up in a Nonya kitchen : Singapore recipes from my mother / Sharon Wee.
Singapore : Marshall Cavendish Cuisine, 2012.
p. cm.
Includes index.
eISBN : 978 981 4435 00 0
1. Cooking, Peranakan. 2. Cooking, Singaporean. I. Title.
TX724.5.S55
641.595957 -- dc22
OCN775289868
Printed in Malaysia by Times Offset (M) Sdn Bhd
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Preface
During her lifetime, my mother had filed away
hundreds of recipes. She had our family heirloom
recipes, orally passed down for generations,
transcribed many times by daughters and
maids. When I was growing up, I was tasked with
reading aloud my mothers recipes just before
she cooked those dishes, so I knew the favourite
versions that she referred to most often.
Like my mother, I enjoy food and love to entertain.
I was often motivated enough to wake up at 3 am to
cook for family and friends and soon realised that
perhaps, I should compile her recipes for posterity.
During Chinese New Year in 2001, I came up with a
simple idea of a spiral bound compilation for my nieces,
consisting of my mothers most popular recipes. I vividly
remember that we sifted through stacks of paper, I then
scanned the trusted copies with a vintage machine.
Armed with the bulging plastic folder of documents, I
flew back to New York, back to my MBA classes for the
next few months, putting aside this personal project for
when I had the time.
I delayed returning to Singapore that summer, assuming
that I could pick up my mothers techniques a few
months later over Christmas. Perhaps then, I could also
combine the baking lessons as she geared up for Chinese
New Year. Nonetheless, I enrolled in the first of many
cooking classes at the end of August 2001 because I
wanted to sharpen my basic skills, like how to make
the perfect French omelette! It was during that fateful
period that I had to rush home to Singapore because my
mother had become seriously ill. She passed away three
months later. I was never to learn alongside her.
Like many Nonyas of her generation, my mother took
many of her best-kept cooking secrets to her grave. And
like many Nonyas of my generation, I was more fixated
on studies and a career than tapping those tips from my
mother. I could not boast that I had learnt to cook under
my mothers tutelage.
Still shocked by her passing, my sisters and I rummaged
through her belongings and documented all her cake
moulds, pots and pans and collection of cookbooks. I
hurried through her decades-old recipes, stripping them
out of their plastic files and lumping them into storage
boxes. Then I hand-carried them all back to New York,
with the plan that someday I would study them more