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Dan Bailey - Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland: Scrambles, Rock Climbs and Winter Routes

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Dan Bailey Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland: Scrambles, Rock Climbs and Winter Routes
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Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland: Scrambles, Rock Climbs and Winter Routes: summary, description and annotation

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The Central Fells by Mark Richards covers 28 summits in the Central Fells of the English Lake District, including a variety of ascents, old and new, in the high ground between Great Langdale and Keswick. The area is flanked to the west by Stake Pass, Langstrath, Borrowdale and Derwentwater and to the east by Grasmere, Dunmail Raise and Thirlmere.
Author Mark Richards combines his passion for the Lake District and artistic flair with all the information the experienced walker needs to explore and enjoy the Mid-Western Fells. For each of the hills covered, this guide offers a dedicated chapter, with full descriptions of a range of new and old routes, full-color Harvey maps and clear elevation diagrams, detailed summit panoramas and lots of inspiring photographs.
It is one of the first two to be published in Cicerones 8-volume Lakeland Fellranger series, which provides a comprehensive new guide to the fells of the English Lake District, with a selection of new routes up more than 230 hills.

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APPENDIX 1
FURTHER ADVENTURES

Most of the best and all of the most famous ridges have been described here but the selection in this book is not exhaustive. Those of an exploratory persuasion might find this list of also-rans helpful.

THE LAKE DISTRICT

The paucity of Cumbrian winter routes covered in the book says more about the quality of recent seasons than it does about the omitted climbs; a deep freeze is required, since these are generally turfy:

  • Great Doup Buttress, Pillar, 120m II
  • Serendipity Ridge, Scoat Fell Crag, 115m III
  • Juniper Ridge, Wasdale Screes, 130m I/II
  • Pendulum Ridge, Scrubby Crag, 120m III
  • South Pinnacle Ridge, Rampsgill Head, 90m IV
  • Central Ridge, Rampsgill Head, 90m IV.

The adventurous might also explore the north and northeast side of Lingmell in summer or winter.

THE REST OF ENGLAND

The ridge-climbing potential of the Exmoor coast has not yet been fully worked out; prospective explorers would have to be experienced with crumbling shale, steep vegetation and tidal issues.

WALES

Several historic Snowdonian ridge routes have lapsed into botanical obscurity, and are due a gardening renaissance. These include:

  • Central Arete, Creigiau Gleision, Foel Goch, c100m VDiff
  • The Great Ridge, Creigiau Gleision, Foel Goch, c130m Severe
  • The Tower, Creigiau Gleision, Foel Goch, VDiff
  • West Ridge, Creigiau Gleision, Foel Goch, VDiff
  • Cannon Ridge, Tryfan West Face, c150m Severe
  • Pinnacle Ridge, Craig y Bera, Mynydd Mawr, at least Difficult (some say substantially harder) theres more to go at hereabouts too, but if you thought Sentries Ridge was wobbly

Less obscure but no less worthwhile are:

  • Mallorys Ridge, Y Garn (Nantlle), 115m VS 4c
  • Eastern Arete, Y Garn (Nantlle), 140m VDiff
  • Llechog Ridge, Snowdon, 1/2
  • Seniors Ridge, Glyder Fawr 1
  • Main Gully ridge, Glyder Fach, 2/3
  • Pinnacle Rib Route, Tryfan East Face, 175m VDiff
  • Overlapping Ridge Route, Tryfan East Face, 185m Severe
  • Gashed Crag, Tryfan East Face, 170m VDiff
  • Eastern Arete, Ysgolion Duon, 200m II/III

And finally

  • Yr Esgair, Foel Goch, 180m II/III
  • The most compelling ridge line in North Wales, this should only be considered in winter and even then only with sound nv/frozen turf. Being suicidally unstable in summer it is one to avoid unless youre that way inclined too.
IRELAND

While the unmissable Irish classics have all been described, several other Kerry ridges would also be worth a look for cool-headed types not averse to loose rock and greenery:

  • Pippets Ridge, Carrauntoohil, Severe
  • Primroses, Carrauntoohil, HVS
  • Curved Gully Ridge, Carrauntoohil, VDiff/Severe
  • Northeast ridge, Caher, VDiff
  • Mystic Ridge, Mount Brandon, Severe
  • East Ridge, Knocknagantee, 3
  • Southwest Ridge, Hungry Hill, 1 (minimum)
  • Grey Soldier Ridge, Ballydavid Head, Severe.
APPENDIX 2
FURTHER READING

For those picking up hill skills these text books come highly recommended.

The Hillwalkers Guide to Mountaineering
Terry Adby and Stuart Johnston
(Cicerone 2003)
Clear and helpful skills advice for budding mountaineers on the classic hard scrambles.
Rock Climbing
Pete Hill (Cicerone 2008)
For when the going gets tougher.
Avalanche!
Robert Bolognesi (Cicerone 2007)
Pocket guide to avalanche prediction, which is after all useful for avalanche avoidance.
Mountain Weather: Understanding Britains mountain weather
David Pedgley (Cicerone 2006)
Learn how weather maps translate on the ground, and how to work with conditions to maximise the chances of a successful trip.

While a comprehensive list of the climbing and walking guidebooks covering every area touched on in this book would require a second volume in itself, a small clutch of recommendations might be handy:

North Wales Rock
Simon Panton (Ground Up 2006)
Scrambles in Snowdonia
Steve Ashton (Cicerone 2007)
Welsh Winter Climbs
Malcolm Campbell and Andy Newton (Cicerone 2008)
Lake District Rock (FRCC 2003)
Scrambles in the Lake District, Volume 1: Southern Lakes
Brian Evans (Cicerone 2007)
Scrambles in the Lake District, Volume 2: Northern Lakes
Brian Evans (Cicerone 2007)
Lake District Winter Climbs
Brian Davison (Cicerone and FRCC 2006)
Munsters Mountains, 30 Walking, Scrambling and Climbing Routes
Denis Lynch (Collins Press 2001)
APPENDIX 3
USEFUL CONTACTS AND WEBSITES
TRANSPORT
Traveline gives transport options, suggested routes and timetables for any journey in the UK www.traveline.org.uk.
For comprehensive public transport info and route maps in the Lake District visit the Cumbria County Council website www.cumbria.gov.uk.
For information on Snowdon Sherpa bus services in the north of Snowdonia see www.snowdoniagreenkey.co.uk.
For Irish bus information see www.buseireann.ie.
WEATHER FORECASTS AND CONDITIONS REPORTS
The Met Office website offers dedicated mountain area forecasts www.metoffice.gov.uk.
The Mountain Weather Information Service is funded by the Scottish government, but still provides good mountain-top forecasts for Snowdonia, the Lakes and the Pennines as well as links to mountain webcams www.mwis.org.uk.
The Lake District National Park Weatherline offers a mountain weather forecast, links to webcams around the park and daily fell-top conditions reports from Helvellyn (particularly useful in winter, although they err on the side of alarmist at times) www.lake-district.gov.uk/weatherline.
Snowdonia National Park runs a similar service with local forecasts and a Snowdon webcam, but without the on-the-ground detail www.eryri-npa.co.uk.
Met ireann is the Irish meteorological service online www.met.ie.
Reports on Snowdonian winter climbing conditions are sometimes posted at www.snowdonia-adventures.co.uk.
Lakes-based winter climber Steve Ashworth has a blog with regular winter conditions reports at www.mixedmaster.blogspot.com.
As the de facto national climbing forum and the biggest single source of live info www.ukclimbing.com can be a good place to pick up tips on winter conditions. Given the volume of traffic on this site, if someone suggests that a particular venue is in good condition it would be wise to predict queues there the following day; the wily wont treat it as gospel, but use the information as a guide to what might also be possible at quieter venues nearby.
TIDE TABLES
For tide information in Britain and Ireland your first port of call could be the Admiraltys online Easy Tide service http://.easytide.ukho.gov.uk. Remember that tide times are generally quoted in GMT, so allowances have to be made during British Summer Time (BST).
Swell forecasts and live weather buoy data are available on a number of websites including www.magicseaweed.com.
ACCOMMODATION
The Youth Hostel Association of England and Wales has the most extensive network of affordable accommodation in rural areas www.yha.org.uk.
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