GABRIEL GAT Gabriel Gat is a French-trained chef with an international reputation as a cookery author, television presenter and cookery teacher. Born in the Loire Valley of France, where his father grew all the familys fruit and vegetables and made wine from the small family vineyard, Gabriel learned the joys of cooking from his maternal grandmother, who was an excellent cook. As a young chef, Gabriel learned to cook from some of the finest French chefs before leaving France with his Australian-born wife, Angie. He is the author of 22 cookbooks, including
100 Best Cakes and Desserts and
Taste Le Tour.
An SBS Book This ebook published in 2013 by Hardie Grant Books
Published in print in 2013 by Hardie Grant Books Hardie Grant Books (Australia)
Ground Floor, Building 1
658 Church Street
Richmond, Victoria 3121
www.hardiegrant.com.au Hardie Grant Books (UK)
Dudley House, North Suite
3435 Southampton Street
London WC2E 7HF
www.hardiegrant.co.uk All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publishers and copyright holders.
The moral rights of the author has been asserted. Copyright recipes SBS 2013
Copyright text Gabriel Gat 2013 Cataloguing-in-Publication data is available from the National Library of Australia. A Cook's Tour of France
eISBN: 9781743580363 Publisher: Pam Brewster
Cover and print text design: Michelle Mackintosh
Digital editor: Hannah Koelmeyer Introduction The gastronomy of France is quite simply superb. Its outstanding fish and seafood, excellent wines and liqueurs, extraordinary cheeses, unique range of charcuteries, delicious bread, cakes and ptisseries are a constant delight for the French people. Every year in spring, I spend two months travelling in my beloved native land, where I began as a chef more than 40 years ago. During these visits, I produce and present Taste Le Tour with Gabriel Gat, a series of gourmet segments for television, featuring the top specialities of the regions traversed by the amazing Tour de France bicycle race.
Each year the route of the race, which covers about 3500 kilometres (2200 miles) through more than a dozen regions, varies, but it always finishes in Paris on the grand Champs-Elyses boulevard. This cookbook is a collection of the delicious recipes prepared for the show over the past four years. It includes dishes from all the main regions of France, such as the popular Auge Valley Chicken Casserole from Normandy, the colourful Ratatouille from Nice with Lemon Chantilly and, of course, lovely desserts, as only the French can do, like the luscious Strawberry Tart from the Loire Valley. I wrote most of the recipes, but a handful of friends, chefs and pastry chefs, in particular Philippe Mouchel and Pierrick Boyer, also contributed. I hope you derive pleasure from reading these recipes and are inspired to create some special French menus for your family and friends. Merci et bon apptit. Gabriel Gat Starters & Light Meals Lyonnaise Cheese Dip with Herbs Cervelle de Canut
From the Lyonnais-Rhne Alps Region 250 g (8 oz) creamed cottage cheese or quark (in France it is called fromage frais) 50 ml (2 fl oz) crme frache 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
salt
freshly ground pepper 1 medium shallot, finely chopped 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley 3 tablespoons finely snipped chives This dip was created in Lyons, the silk capital ofFrance, in the 19th century, and the French titletranslates as silk workers brain, meaning it is soft.Its often served with hot baked potatoes but is lovelyon toasted sourdough baguette with vegetable sticks. Place the cottage cheese in a salad bowl and mix in the crme frache.
Whisk in the olive oil, vinegar, garlic, salt and pepper, then stir in the shallot, parsley and chives. Cover with plastic film and refrigerate for 23 hours before serving. SERVES 68 Oysters in Champagne Sabayon Hutres au sabayon de champagne
From the Champagne Region 50 g (2 oz) butter, melted 1 medium shallot, finely chopped 12 button mushrooms, finely chopped
salt
freshly ground pepper 12 freshly opened oysters 80 ml (3 fl oz) champagne 2 egg yolks Its fascinating to visit a champagne cellar in Franceand then to taste the real thing where it is made. This oyster dish is one of my favourite appetisers. Preheat the oven to 250C (480F/Gas 9). Heat one-third of the melted butter in a small frying pan. Stir in the shallots and cook on low heat for 2 minutes.
Add the chopped mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes until most of the moisture has evaporated. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the oysters from the shells and put the shells aside on a baking tray. In a small saucepan, place 50 ml (2 fl oz) of the champagne and bring to a low simmer. Gently stir in the oysters and turn off the heat. Place the egg yolks and the remaining champagne in a bowl.
Place the bowl over a pan of simmering water (bain-marie) and beat the yolks and champagne until light and fluffy. It takes a few minutes and the egg must not scramble. Remove the bowl from the heat, slowly whisk in the remaining melted butter and season with salt and pepper. Spoon a little mushroom mixture into each of the 12 oyster shells. Top with a drained oyster, then coat the oysters with the champagne sauce. Place the oysters in the hot oven for a few minutes until the sauce has lightly browned.
Serve immediately. SERVES 2 Poached Oysters with Potatoes & a Chive Sauce Hutres poches sauce ciboulette en pommes de terre
From the Vende Region 6 new potatoes 50 g (2 oz) butter, cut into small cubes 1 shallot, finely chopped 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 125 ml (4 fl oz/ cup) dry white wine
freshly ground pepper 1 teaspoon pouring cream 12 freshly opened oysters 2 tablespoons finely snipped chives a few mixed green salad leaves and herbs Beautiful beaches and charming fishing ports line the Atlantic coast of the Vende region. It is known for its seafood, and there are several islands not far from the mainland that produce some of Frances finest oysters. Cook the potatoes in salted boiling water until just done. Drain and peel the potatoes as soon as they can be handled. Place in warm water until ready to use. Melt 1 teaspoon butter in a small saucepan on medium heat.
Stir in the chopped shallot and cook on medium heat for 1 minute. Add the vinegar and about 2 tablespoons white wine. Season with pepper and simmer until the liquid has almost evaporated. Add the cream to the shallots and bring to a simmer. Whisk in the remaining butter, bit by bit, until creamy. Remove the pan from the heat.