Copyright 1990, 2006 by Margaret S. Fox.
Text copyright 1990, 2006 by John B. Bear and Margaret S. Fox.
Photography copyright 2006 by Laurie Smith.
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin Random House Company, New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House LLC
The recipe and notes for copyright 1989 by Barbara Tropp.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data on file with the publisher.
eBook ISBN: 978-0-307-81698-6
Trade paperback ISBN: 978-1-58008-782-7
Cover design by Betsy Stromberg
Photographs styled by Erica McNeish
by Randy Lutge
by F. Smatherfoot
v3.1
Dedication
To Stephanie Kroninger and Barbara Tropp,
cherished friends who died of cancer. Their spirits
continue to inspire me. I miss them every day.
I have the good fortune to call some pretty amazing people my friends. For their much-appreciated support, insight, love, kindness, and trustworthiness, my heartfelt thanks go to: Anne and Harold Fox, my very smart parents; Emily Fox, my wise and witty sister; and Celeste, my adorable daughter. Anne and Emily Fox, busy though they are, didnt hesitate to edit the heck out of my manuscript and help me sound more articulate. Harold Fox, the worlds best salesman, started to promote this book even before I began the revision. His enthusiasm kept me going when I was overwhelmed.
Those as close as family include: Hilde and David Burton, Stephen Burton, Kathryn Wentzel, Sally Shepard, Howard Knight, Jeffery Garcia, Wendy and Jim Ponts, Sallie McConnell, Sara ODonnell, Rick Steele, and Andy Semons. They have all contributed to my life in profound ways.
A big thank you to Steve and Ashley Jenks who cared about Cafe Beaujolais enough to buy it in 2000.
When I needed help with this project, Jocelyn Kamstra Sugrue stepped in with good humor and tested a great many recipes. And to all those who contributed recipes and stories, I appreciate your generosity. To the tasters, who graciously accepted even the less successful experiments, thanks!
Antonia Allegra enthusiastically encouraged me and my (ad)ventures and writing.
The multitalented Michael Carroll, a superb business coach and furniture maker, created the spreadsheet that made this entire project manageable.
Linda Carucci mentored me in significant ways without even realizing it because thats the kind of person she is.
Tom and Penny Honer welcomed me into the Harvest Market family, which has opened up a new world for me.
Caspar Childrens Garden, Jessica Morton, Kathi Griffen, Deena Zarlin, Debra Castle, and Peg Brown-Levy have taken extremely good care of my daughter over the years.
John Bear, who appears in my life from time to time and matter-of-factly shows me that anything is possible, did it again.
And I am grateful to two of the greatest TV shows of all time Rocky and Bullwinkle and The Dick Van Dyke Show for their indelible influence on my young and impressionable sense of humor.
Thousands of restaurants across the country serve breakfast all day. But typical lunch and dinner items, such as sandwiches, soups, and desserts, rarely appear on breakfast menus. Thus, convention dictates that if you want meat in the morning, your options are Eggs Benedict or the Lumberjack Special. Ice cream with a short stack or a burrito with an omelette? Probably not. Pizza, pasta, or polenta as a breakfast entre? I dont think so. Pumpkin pie or chocolate cake before twelve? Are you kidding?
Cafe Beaujolais, in the tiny village of Mendocino, 160 coastal miles north of San Francisco, was beloved by local patrons and national reviewers alike, who tried for years to figure out what made breakfast at the Cafe so very special. At least part of the answer was that we didnt serve breakfast, we served Morning Food.
We took ingredients that most of us associate with the comfort and conventions of breakfast and shaped them into dozens of wonderful specialties whose only common denominator was that they were utterly deliciousand they were served in the morning. The Morning Food philosophy gave our patrons permission to indulge in a wide array of splendid dishes, without guilt or embarrassment, before the sun was high in the sky.
Decades later, this gently subversive approach to dining continues to ensure that you wont have to rationalize anything you choose to put in your mouth before noon. However, if you wish to justify an unusual choice, simply point out that the ingredients are standard breakfast classics that have been used in creative combinations. For example, instead of corn flakes and toast, keep the corn and the bread, add a few spices, and transform it into Tex-Mex Corn Bread Pudding.
Of course, there is more to the Morning Food ideal than just rearranging ingredients in interesting ways. Indeed, much of it is traditional breakfast and brunch fare: omelettes, eggs, pastries, and pancakes. But there is a level of care taken with each dish that Cafe Beaujolais customers, as well as fans of the first edition of Morning Food, found both satisfying and nurturing. It is my hope that the new edition of Morning Food lives up to the expectations of all those legions of happy diners and readers and that a new generation of Morning Food disciples is born.
I first met Margaret Fox over the phone almost thirty years ago. At the time, Cocolat, my fledgling chocolate dessert shop in North Berkeley, was going gangbusters. Margaret called for some advice about which chocolate would be best for something she was baking for a shop in Mendocino, 150 miles to the north. I remember discussing whether or not one could legally sell a product that was, er, uh, made at home. We felt instantly familiar and comfortable with each other, and so began a lifelong friendship.
To thank me for whatever pearls of wisdom I might have bestowed that day, Margaret sent her version of a mediaeval Italian confection called panforte . She says I called back right away and said I dont know what this is, but send 50 pounds of it! We sold tons of it at Cocolat over the next several years. Always a whirlwind of creative energy, Margaret kept coming up with new flavors and new ways of packaging and marketing what was eventually christened Panforte di Mendocino.