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Nancy Harmon Jenkins - Virgin Territory: Exploring the World of Olive Oil

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Nancy Harmon Jenkins Virgin Territory: Exploring the World of Olive Oil
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An illuminating look at olive oil with 100 recipes from the countrys leading authority on the subject Olive oil is more popular than ever, thanks to its therapeutic and preventative effects in treating different diseases, as well as the growing variety of brands and imports available. Nancy Harmon Jenkins, arguably the leading authority on olive oil and the healthy Mediterranean diet, presents more than 100 dishes that showcase olive oil, ranging from soups to seafood to sauces to sweets. Along with favorites like tapenade and pesto, youll find other exciting dishes like North African Seafood Tagine, Oven-Braised Artichokes with Potatoes and Onions, and Quince and Ginger Olive Oil Cake. But this book isnt just a collection of hearty and healthful recipes; Jenkins also covers the history and culture of olive oil as well as how to buy it and cook with it. A thing of beauty with the stunning photographs of exquisite dishes as well as Jenkins own Tuscan olive tree grove, Virgin Territory captures the delights of making and cooking with olive oil.

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Copyright 2015 by Nancy Harmon Jenkins Photography copyright 2015 by Penny De - photo 1

Copyright 2015 by Nancy Harmon Jenkins
Photography copyright 2015 by Penny De Los Santos
All rights reserved.

Food styling by Simon Andrews
Prop styling by Hilary Robertson

For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company, 215 Park Avenue South, New York, New York 10003.

www.hmhco.com

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Jenkins, Nancy Harmon.
Virgin territory : exploring the world of olive oil / Nancy Harmon Jenkins ; photography by Penny De Los Santos.
pages cm
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-1-118-20322-4 (hardcover) ; 978-0-544-18866-2 (ebk)
1. Cooking (Olive oil) 2. Cooking, Mediterranean. I. Title.
TX819.O42J46 2015
641.6463dc23
2014004428

Book design by Vertigo Design NYC
Ebook design by Rebecca Springer

v1.0215

For Nadir, Neviyat, and Tsega

Recipes
Small Dishes: Antipasti, Meze, Tapas, and Snacks
Soups
Bread, Muffins, Biscuits, Crackers, Focaccia, and Pizza
Pasta, Rice, and Legumes
Vegetables and Salads
Seafood
Meat and Poultry
Sauces
Sweets and Desserts
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
A NOTE OF THANKS

First of all, I want to thank my children, Sara and Nicholas, along with their partners and offspring, for the love and support they have shown throughout this long enterprise; also heartfelt thanks to all the many hands who have joined us over the years as we harvested the olives, made the oil, and then sat around the table in the Teverina farmhouse kitchen to sample, taste and discuss, analyze the past, and make plans for the future.

To Penny De Los Santos for fabulous photography and great companionship on our olive oil adventures; to Justin Schwartz, Stephanie Fletcher, and the team at Houghton Mifflin Harcourt; to Jennifer Griffin, who had faith in the book when I had lost it. To all of you, I pledge my thanks and a bottle of great olive oil next time we harvest!

Thanks are also surely due to the vast number of farmers and producers of excellent olive oil right around the Mediterranean and on to California and Chile who have been generous of their time and expertise, including especially:

  • In Greece: George and Christine Demetriadis of Biolea; Aris Kefalogiannis of Gaea and the Kritsa Cooperative
  • In France: Mort Rosenblum and Jeannette Hermann of Wild Olives/Huile dOlives in Draguignan; Jean-Benot and Cathrine Hugues of Castelas, Valle des Baux
  • In Spain: Francisco (Paco) Va and his sister Rosa Va of Castillo de Canena; Francisco Nuez de Prado of Baena; John Cancilla and Fadrique Alvarez de Toledo of Marques de Valdueza
  • In Tunisia: Abdelmajid Mahjoub of Les Moulins Mahjoub
  • In Palestine: Nasser Abu Farha of Canaan Fair Trade and the Palestine Fair Trade Organization
  • In Croatia: Katia Gasparini of AgroLaguna, Pore
  • In Sicily: Mary and Tonino Simeti of Bosco Falconeria, Partinico; Gianfranco Becchina and his daughter Gabriella of Olio Verde, Castelvetrano; the family of Nicola Titone at Azienda Titone, Marsala; Lorenzo Piccione of Pianogrillo, Chiaramonte Gulfi
  • In Puglia: Catherine and Brian Faris of Pascarosa in Martina Franca; Armando Balestrazzi of Il Frantoio in Ostuni
  • In Umbria: Graziano Decimi of Decimi oils; Feliciano Fancelli of Frantoio Fancelli
  • In Molise: Marina Colonna of Azienda Colonna, San Martino in Pensilis; Enrico Colavita of Oleificio Colavita, Campobasso
  • In Lazio: Paola di Mauro of Colle Picchione in Marino
  • In Tuscany: the Stucchi-Prinetti family of Badia a Coltibuono; the Bicocchi family of Tenuta Numero Uno; Gemma Pasquali and her father, Paolo, at Villa Campestri; Helen and Keith Richmond of Podere Boggioli
  • In the Veneto: Mirko Sella of San Cassiano
  • In California: Mike Forbes and Bob Singletary of California Olive Ranch, Oroville; the Yocha Dehe Wintun Nation of Seka Hills, Capay Valley
  • In Chile: Jay Rosengarten and Tomas Garcia of Olisur, Colchagua Valley

Other help, both general and specific, was offered by the following friends, scientists, sages, chefs, and experts, and I thank them all, with the assurance that any errors of fact or interpretation in the book are mine and mine alone: the late Mita Antolini, Arnaldo Antolini, Burton and Nancy Anderson, Nancy Ashe, Eryn Balch, Rolando Beramendi, Caroline Beck, Mario Bertuccioli, Bill Briwa, Chris Butler, Maurizio Castelli, Darrell Corti, Maria Isabel Covas, Barbara dAgapiti, Salvatore Denaro, Lou di Palo, Carrie Donavan, Greg Drescher, Beth Elon, the late Dun Gifford, Dan Flynn, Don Harris, Roberta Klugman, Alessandro Leone and Antonia Tamburrino, Fausto and Mar Luchetti, Luanne OLaughlin, Claudio Peri, Mara Jos San Romn, Lisa Sasson, Rossella Speranza, Antonia Trichopoulou, Beatrice Ughi, Paul Vossen, and Ari Weinzweig.

Olives

Sometimes a craving comes for salt, not sweet,

For fruits that you can eat

Only if pickled in a vat of tears

A rich and dark and indehiscent meat

Clinging tightly to the piton spears

Of toothpicks, maybe, drowned beneath a tide

Of vodka and vermouth,

Rocking at the bottom of a wide,

Shallow, long-stemmed glass, and gentrified;

Or rustic, on a plate cracked like a tooth

A miscellany of the humble hues

Eponymously drab

Brown greens and purple browns, the blacks and blues

That chart the slow chromatics of a bruise

Washed down with swigs of barrel wine that stab

The palate with pine-sharpness. They recall

The harvest and its toil,

The nets spread under silver trees that foil

The blue glass of the heavens in the fall

Daylight packed in treasuries of oil,

Paradigmatic summers that decline

Like singular archaic nouns, the troops

Of hours in retreat. These fruits are mine

Small bitter drupes

Full of the golden past and cured in brine.

A. E. Stallings

The New Criterion, June 2006

Introduction

I fell in love with olive oil almost by accident, but I fell hard. Forty years ago, I bought an abandoned farm, 25 acres high up in the hills of eastern Tuscany, hard by the border with Umbria. A dozen or so olive trees came with the property, all of them overgrown and neglected, scarcely discernible amid the tangle of blackberries and wild gorse that infested the terraces below the tumbledown stone farmhouse. Over the years, those olive trees began to fascinate me, even as they led me to wonder: Who planted them? When? And why? Twelve olive trees would not provide enough oil for an individual, let alone the fairly sizable family that had last inhabited and farmed Pian dArcello some eight or ten years earlier. And those decrepit trees scarcely bore any fruit at all.

Virgin Territory is in part the story of that fascination and of how it led me on an unending and predictably futile search to find the worlds greatest olive oil, a search that led to agronomists and nutritionists, to great research institutions, to small family farms in out-of-the-way corners of the Mediterranean and to vast estates where olives marched in regimented rows to the horizon, and finally back to our own farm, where I eventually added 150 young trees to the collection and where we now make our own superb (if I say so myself) green-gold, Tuscan extra-virgin. It has been a continuing process of education as I have studied and questioned, and as I began to grasp how and why things were done the way they wereand just as important, how and why things began to change.

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