FARMHOUSE CHEESES OF IRELAND
GLYNN ANDERSON is passionate about nature and good food and has sought out the finest cuisine in France, Spain, Italy and further afield. Early visits to France sparked his lifelong interest in cheese, and he is an aficionado of the best cheeses in the world. His first book was Birds of Ireland: Facts, Folklore & History (2008). He is also an experienced amateur photographer.
JOHN MCLAUGHLIN, an award-winning amateur photographer, has a long-standing interest in good food. An enthusiastic cook and member of the Slow Food movement, he appreciates quality raw materials and firmly believes in supporting local producers.
www.irishfarmhousecheese.com
A lake of new milk I beheld
In the midst of a fair plain.
I saw a well-appointed house
Thatched with butter.
As I went all around it
To view its arrangement
I saw that puddings fresh-boiled
Were in thatch-rods
Its two soft door-posts of custard,
Its dais of curds and butter,
Beds of glorious lard,
Many shields of thin-pressed cheese.
Under the straps of those shields
Were men of soft sweet smooth cheese,
Men who knew not to wound a gael,
Spears of old butter had each of them.
A huge cauldron full of meat
(Methought Id try to tackle it)
Boiled, leafy kale, browny white,
A brimming vessel full of milk
A bacon-house of two-score ribs
A wattling of trip support of clans
Of every food pleasant to man,
Meseemed the whole was gathered there.
From The Vision of Mac Conglinne (Aislinge Meic Con Glinne)
Anon, 11th/12th Century
UCC CELT project (www.ucc.ie/celt/published/T308002/index.html).
Reproduced with permission.
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FARMHOUSE CHEESES OF IRELAND
A CELEBRATION
Glynn Anderson & John McLaughlin
www.collinspress.ie
Contents
Acknowledgements
Thanks to Kieran Murphy, owner of blog www.icecreamireland.com and Murphys Ice Cream Shops in Kerry (Dingle, Kenmare and Ballyferriter) and Dublin (Wicklow Street and Temple Bar) (www.murphysicecream.ie) and co-author of Murphys Book of Sweet Things (Sean Murphy and Kieran Murphy, Mercier Press, Cork, 2008), for permission to publish recipes Bluebell Falls Goats Cheese ice cream and Wicklow Blue Cheese and caramelised shallot ice cream.
Thanks to Darina Allen for two recipes: Ardsallagh Goats Cheese croquettes with rocket leaves, roast pepper and tapenade oil and Salad of Crozier Blue Cheese with char-grilled pears and spiced candied nuts, copyright 2011 Ballymaloe Cookery School (www.cookingisfun.ie).
Thanks to Claire Nash of the wonderful Nash 19 Restaurant, 19 Princes Street, Cork City (www.nash19.com) for the recipe Ardsallagh Goats Cheese, golden beetroot and roasted onion frittata, copyright 2011 Claire Nash.
Thanks to Clodagh McKenna for the recipe Clodagh McKennas baked Gubbeen Cheese with thyme and rosemary, reproduced with her permission (www.clodaghmckenna.com). This recipe originally appeared in The Irish Farmers Market Cookbook (HarperCollins, London, 2006), copyright 2006 Clodagh McKenna.
Thanks to Derry Clarke, chef patron of LEcrivain, Dublin (Michelin star since 2003), for permission to reproduce four recipes (www.lecrivain.com).
Thanks to Ross Lewis, head chef and proprietor of Chapter One Restaurant, Dublin (Michelin star since 2007) (www.chapteronerestaurant.com), for permission to reproduce Ardsallagh Goats Cheese, red pepper basquaise, artichoke, tomato confit, black olive oil.
For permission to reproduce two of his recipes, thanks to Denis Cotter, owner/chef of the fabulous vegetarian Cafe Paradiso, Cork City (www.cafeparadiso.ie) and author of several books, including For the Love of Food: Vegetarian Recipes from the Heart (Collins, London, 2011).
Thanks to Catherine Fulvio, Ballyknocken House & Cookery School, Glenealy, Ashford, County Wicklow (www.ballyknocken.com), for permission to reproduce her recipe Ballyknocken walnut and Wicklow Blue Cheese bruschetta.
Thanks to Aoife Cox, creator of the excellent Daily Spud blog (www.thedailyspud.com), for recipes Irish potato risotto with Desmond Cheese, Tri-coloured Irish vegetable terrine (with St Gall Cheese) and Raclette au St Gall, copyright 2011 Aoife Cox.
Thanks to Rachel Allen for her recipe Baked eggs with creamy kale (with Glebe Brethan Cheese), reproduced with permission from Rachels book Entertaining at Home (Collins, London, 2010).
Thanks to our wives (one each), families, friends and work colleagues for all your help, patience and understanding and for putting up with our absences and anti-social hours.
Thanks to the staff of The Collins Press and associates for your work in bringing this book to print.
Thanks to Kevin Sheridan for permission to photograph at Sheridans HQ in Carnaross.
Thanks to all cheesemakers for logos provided.
And last, but certainly not least, a massive thank you to all the cheesemakers featured, for your hospitality, for taking the time to talk to us on visits or on the phone and for supplying samples for tasting and photographing. Your hard work is the reason for this books existence.
PHOTO CREDITS
The vast bulk of the photographs in this book were taken by the authors, Glynn Anderson and John McLaughlin, while researching the book. A few cheesemakers have contributed photographs, for which we are very grateful. In particular, thanks to Ardrahan for a photograph of Mary Burns; to Bal Organic Cheese for photographs of Kate Carmody and Friesian cattle grazing; to Bluebell Falls for photographs of a goat and Pegasus cheese; to Castlefarm Cheese for two photographs of Castlefarm Cheese; to Ed Harper and Lena OReilly for the Goats Rule graphic; to Fivemiletown Creamery for a photograph of Boile cheese; to Glenilen Farm for a photograph of Alan and Valerie; to Kellys Moon Shine Dairy for a photograph of an Irish Moiled bull; to Milleens for a Milleens photograph; to Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese for photographs of a Wicklow cheese selection and John Hempenstall; and to Yeats Country Foods for two Yeats photos.
How to Use This Book
This book describes the cheesemakers of Ireland and their cheeses. Each cheesemaker has a section to themselves with a subsection for each of their significant cheeses. A selection of recipes using Irish farmhouse cheeses follows, many of which have been contributed by leading Irish chefs.