Francine Segan - Shakespeares Kitchen: Renaissance Recipes for the Contemporary Cook
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According to food historian Segan, we inherited much of what we now think of as American food from the English: The Pilgrims who arrived at Plymouth Rock were Shakespeares contemporaries and they brought their cookbooks from England. Updating dozens of classic Elizabethan recipes, Segan leads a culinary foray into Shakespeares time. Each recipe is supplemented with a historical note that places the dish in context. For instance, Individual Meat Pies with Cointreau Marmalade were served by vendors catering to the theater crowd. The recipes have been adapted for the modern kitchen: all references to cauldrons have been removed. Section titles are in period English (Kickshaws instead of Appetizers, Fysshe instead of Fish, Pottage instead of Soups), but Renaissance scholars are not the only readers who will get a kick out of this book. Its playful tone, fascinating side-notes, and apt citations from the Bards plays make this book as fun to read as it is to cook from. And for the person who spends time in the kitchen hoping to satisfy curiosity as well as appetite, recipes like Lemony Sweet Potatoes with Dates and Lobster Tails with Wildflowers are sure to appeal. Photos not seen by PW.
Copyright 2003 Reed Business Information, Inc.
Not since Lynne Rossetto Kaspers lauded The Splendid Table (1992) introduced cooks to the world of the seventeenth-century Italian kitchen has a historical investigation turned up so many compelling recipes as has Francine Segan in Shakespeares Kitchen. Although not a literal gleaning of recipes from Shakespeares plays and poetry, this volume delves into sixteenth- and seventeenth-century English cookbooks and makes them accessible, reproducible, and attractive. Segan presents each original recipe in its quaint, abbreviated form. Working from that sketchy data, she faithfully converts the antique into instructions that an experienced cook can understand and can reproduce either for a special party or for an adventuresome family. Although reading the original recipe and comparing it with its modern version makes the process look virtually transparent, its clear that Segan spent hours in a kitchen testing proportions and measurements to make dishes palatable. Simple cauliflower chowder or Italian pea pottage show the Elizabethan fascination with exotic spices such as mace and anise seed. Kids will get a giggle out of the scatological association in the original name of the airy dumplings floating in a thirteenth-century Portuguese soup. Royals watchers will delight in Queen Elizabeths Fine Cake and the spicy scones named King James Biscuits. Renaissance Apple and Steak Pie may serve as a spectacular focus for an elegant dinner party. Segans appendix gives clever ideas for wording invitations to dinner parties featuring the books recipes. Students of both history and literature may mine Shakespeares Kitchen for inspiration for class projects and celebrations. Mark Knoblauch
Copyright American Library Association. All rights reserved
Francine Segan: author's other books
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MY DEEPEST GRATITUDE TO Mary Bahr, Judi Carle, and Tim Turner for their expert guidance and wonderful insights throughout every step of the process.
Appreciation to Agatha and Valentina Gourmet Food in New York City; Louis Balducci; Elise Abrams Antiques, Great Barrington, Massachusetts; Lock Stock and Barrel Gourmet Foods and Wine Merchants, Great Barrington, Massachusetts; Kuttner Prop Rental and The Prop Company in New York City. Thanks to Allison Fishman, Marcia Kiesel, Wes Martin, Judy Singer, Lee Elman, Bob and Toni Strassler, Laura Chester, Honey Sharp Garden Design, Berkshire Botanical Garden, Windy Hill Nursery, Adrian Van Zon, Dorothy Denburg, Moira Hodgson, Bill Rice, Elliot Brown, Nach Waxman, and Professor Roger Deakins.
Special thanks to the New York Public Library, Rare Books Division; Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundations; the Huntington Library; the Folger Shakespeare Library; and to Arlene Shaner, New York Academy of Medicine Library, Malloch Rare Books Room.
And most important, thank you to Shakespeare festivals everywhere for keeping us connected to Shakespeares works, as the Bard would have most wanted, with live actors on a real stage.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
FRANCINE SEGAN is a psychologist and food historian. She lectures at museums, historic homes, schools, and theaters and consults on historic menu planning. Segan and her husband, Marc, an inventor and theater producer, along with their two children, Samantha and Max, divide their time between New York City, the Berkshires, and Italy.
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Some pigeons, Davy, a couple of
short-legged hens, a joint of mutton, and any pretty
little tiny kickshaws, tell William cook.
KING HENRY IV, PART II, 5.1
Kickshaws, the Elizabethan misspelling of the French quelque chose, a little something, refers to dishes we now categorize as appetizers or hors doeuvres.
The 1615 cookbook The English Huswife, by Gervase Markham, begins, Now the compound Fricases, are those which consist of manie things such as Tansies, Fritters, Pancakes, and anie Quelquechose whatsoever, being things of great request and estimation in France, Spaine, and Italy, and the most curious Nations.
Taking recipes from The English Huswife and from other cookbooks, this chapter offers a sampling of kickshaws from throughout Renaissance Europe.
SERVES 8
I picked and cut most of their festival purses; and had not the old man
come in with whoo-bub against his daughter and
the kings son and scared my choughs from the chaff,
I had not left a purse alive in the whole army.
THE WINTERS TALE, 4.4
I N SHAKESPEARES DAY, meat turnovers like these were called purses because they looked like the small change holders people wore attached to their belts. The expression cut purse referred to a thief who cut the cord to steal the purse, an all too common occurrence in those days before policed streets.
The savory filling of tangy candied ginger and sweet dried fruit make these purses worth stealing! Enjoy them with a glass of cold ale before heading off to see your favorite production of Shakespeare or while watching one of the many great movies inspired by his work.
8 ounces ground round or ground sirloin
teaspoon ground rosemary
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