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Mazzeo - Back Lane Wineries of Napa, Second Edition

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Book:
Back Lane Wineries of Napa, Second Edition
Author:
Mazzeo / Tilar J
Publisher:
Clarkson Potter/Ten Speed/Harmony
Genre:
Books / Home and family
Year:
2014
City:
Napa Valley (Calif.), California--Napa Valley
Rating:
4 / 5
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This updated guide to the small and secret back-lane wineries and tasting rooms of Napa profiles over 70 hard-to-find, authentic boutique estates that feature world-class, artisanal wines revered by locals and critics.
Beyond the crowded tasting rooms of Napas popular wineries, theres an authentic, welcoming side of the valley waiting to be explored: boutique estates run by passionate winemakers who handcraft world-class wines. Back Lane Wineries of Napa uncovers more than seventy of these gems that locals and critics revere but few visitors ever see. Updated with new wineries, restaurants, and local attractions; maps; full-color photographs; and tips on wine-tasting etiquette, wine shipping services, and itinerary planning, this guide will prepare oenophiles and beginning wine-lovers alike to live the good lifeNapa style

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Back Lane Wineries of Napa Second Edition - photo 1

Copyright 2010 2014 by Tilar J Mazzeo All rights reserved Published - photo 2

Copyright 2010 2014 by Tilar J Mazzeo All rights reserved Published in the - photo 3

Copyright 2010 2014 by Tilar J Mazzeo All rights reserved Published in the - photo 4

All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin Random House Company, New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House LLC

Previous edition originally published in the United States by The Little Bookroom, New York, in 2010.
All photographs by Paul Hawley with the exception of the following:
: Olabisi Winery
: Tara Katrina Hole
: Cimarossa
: Ladera Vineyards
: Robert Keenan Winery
: Ehlers Estate
: Rutherford Grove
: Keever Vineyards

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Mazzeo, Tilar J.
The back lane wineries of Napa / Tilar J. Mazzeo ; photographs by Paul Hawley. Second edition.
pages cm
Includes index.
1. Wine tourismCaliforniaNapa Valley. 2. Wine tastingCaliforniaNapa Valley. 3. WineriesCaliforniaNapa ValleyGuidebooks. 4. Napa Valley (Calif.)Guidebooks. I. Title.
TP548.5.T68M38 2014
663.20979419dc23
2013031995

Trade Paperback ISBN: 978-1-60774-590-7
eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-591-4

Cartography by Moon Street Cartography, Durango, Colorado

v3.1

Contents

SILVERADO TRAIL
including Stags Leap and Oak Knoll

ST. HELENA HIGHWAY
including Rutherford, Oakville, and Yountville

EASTERN VALLEYS
including Chiles Valley and Pope Valley

Wineries on this map can be found in the following chapters:

Introduction

THE REPUTATION OF THE NAPA VALLEY is the stuff of legend, and the making of the California wine country is a story with enough drama and intrigue to support more than a handful of bestselling accounts of its rise to international prominence. Since the famous face-off in the 1976 so-called Judgment of Pariswhere Napa Valley Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon wines beat out renowned French competitors in blind teststhere has been no doubt that this relatively small corner of the wine world has garnered a big reputation. Consider, after all, that the Napa Valley produces less than five percent of the total wine production in the state of California. Or that it has fewer than fifty thousand acres planted to vineyards. Bordeaux has more than five times that amount, and, yet, devoted aficionados of Napa Valley wines will argue that their reputations are not all that different.

The result of all this celebrity and acclaim is more than just great wines. It also means tourism. Each year, nearly five million visitors travel to the Napa Valley wine country from around the world. Most of these visitors travel along what the locals call the loopthe well-trodden tasting route that takes eager enthusiasts up the Silverado Trail and back down the St. Helena Highway (or vice versa), past some of Americas most famous and most familiar wineries. Along the way, there are picturesque fields of blazing mustard blooms, ready gourmet pleasures, and a little taste of the good life, Napa style.

If what you want is a weekend (or more) of incomparable luxury, youll have no trouble finding it here in the wine country, and you wont need a travel guide if what you want to do is visit the celebrated commercial wineries of the Napa Valley. Its hard to miss them. Many tasting rooms are slick retail operations run by corporate managers living somewhere a long way from Napa, offering wines that you can buy just as readily (and often less expensively) on the shelves of your local grocery store, and big signs along the highway will show you the way. Often, these are beautiful places, and I am not recommending that you pass them by entirely. A part of the California wine tasting experience is sitting on marbled Italianate terraces overlooking acres of perfectly pruned vineyards, basking in the warm sun and the intense loveliness of it all.

For some, as exquisite as it all is, there is also a whispered complaint. To certain sensibilities, its just possible that this aspect of Napa is a bit more like Disneyland than anyone would like. The largest corporate wineries crank out more than eight million cases of wine a year, and the hillsides are dotted with mansions that you can tell even from a distance are monstrously huge. Its all too easy to get the impression that Napa is big business by day and elite charity events by nightthe kind of place where the idle super-rich, weighed down by all those diamonds, struggle to lift that $100 glass of hillside cabernet. And sometimes there is the perception that only heaven can help the poor novice who wanders off the beaten tourist track. At least there on the main tourist trail, lost in a crowd, you can slink away silently when the experts start in on some competitive and very expensive appreciation.

These are some of the enduring stereotypes of Napamaybe even part of the marketing in some corners of the valley. But nothing could be farther from the heart and soul of this region. The other side of the wine country, and by far the larger side, is surprisingly genuine, low-key, and embracing, a place where enthusiastic amateurs are everyones favorite people and where you can spend a long afternoon tromping the vineyards with a small proprietor who is only too happy to share with you his or her little piece of paradise for a remarkably modest tasting feeand sometimes without charging at all. Out there in the fields or up in the tasting room, youll hear time and time again the story of how one winemaker or another came to this verdant valley, fell in love with it, and found the course of life irrevocably altered. Everywhere in Napa there are people of passion who have made their lifes work crafting a beautiful wine.

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