Copyright 2009, 2014 by Tilar J. Mazzeo
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin Random House Company, New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House LLC
Previous edition originally published in the United States by The Little Bookroom, New York, in 2009.
All photographs by Paul Hawley with the exception of the following:
: Garden Creek Ranch Vineyard Winery
: Hawley Winery
: Siduri Wines
: Pellegrini Family Vineyards
: Tara Bella Winery & Vineyards
: Thomas George Estates
: La Rue Wines
: Dustan Wine
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Mazzeo, Tilar J.
The back lane wineries of Sonoma / Tilar J. Mazzeo ; photographs by Paul Hawley. Second edition.
pages cm
Includes index.
1. Wine tourismCaliforniaSonoma County. 2. Wine tastingCaliforniaSonoma County. 3. WineriesCaliforniaSonoma CountyGuidebooks. 4. Sonoma County (Calif.)Guidebooks. I. Title.
TP548.5.T68M39 2014
663.20979418dc23
2013032084
Trade Paperback ISBN: 978-1-60774-592-1
eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-593-8
Cartography by Moon Street Cartography, Durango, Colorado
v3.1
Contents
RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
and Santa Rosa Area
SONOMA VALLEY
and Los Carneros
Wineries on this map can be found in the following chapters:
Wineries on this map can be found in the following chapters:
Wineries on this map can be found in the following chapters:
Wineries on this map can be found in the following chapters:
Wineries on this map can be found in the following chapters:
Wineries on this map can be found in the following chapters:
Introduction
THE WINES IN SONOMA COUNTY are world-class, and each year more than 7.5 million tourists visit what locals call simply the North Baythe rural and still magical wine country less than an hour north of San Francisco. And everyone knows, of course, that wine tasting is a serious business. Swirl, sniff, taste. There is nothing wrong with classiness and expertise and the love of a fine wine. This is the stuff la dolce vita is made of.
But the wine country is also, increasingly, big business. Many tasting rooms are slick retail operations run by corporate managers living somewhere a long way from Sonoma, offering wines that you can buy just as readily (and often less expensively) on the shelves of your local grocery store. Often, these are beautiful places, and I am not recommending that you pass them by entirely. A part of the California wine tasting experience is sitting on marbled Italianate terraces overlooking acres of perfectly pruned vineyards, basking in the warm sun and the intense loveliness of it all.
But you dont need a guidebook to see this part of the North Bay wine country. Highway 101 is plastered with billboards, and you would be hard-pressed to miss the big-name tasting rooms clustered around the central plazas of quaint towns like Sonoma, Healdsburg, or Glen Ellen (all worth a leisurely visit).
Just as exciting and often far more difficult to spot, however, are the small, back lane wineries of Sonoma, places that the critics, industry professionals, and locals revere but few visitors ever see. These are wineries run by the same people who grow the grapes and make the wines, and they are geared toward curious travelers looking to discover what it is about Sonoma County that makes everyone who lives here swear it is paradise.
This is a guide to those back lane wineries of Sonoma County. Places where you can find excellent handcrafted wines made by on-site proprietors, often with only a local or regional distribution and a limited case production. The vast majority of the wineries included in this book make fewer than ten thousand cases of wine a year, and the smallest produce only a hundred or two. The very largest make fewer than thirty-five thousand cases, and, in a county where some of the big commercial operations churn out five million cases of wine a year, this is still a small operation. Off the beaten path there are few marbled terraces or stucco palaces, but often these wineries are in the midst of striking beautyoverlooking a hundred acres of a wildlife preserve, on the edge of an ancient redwood forest, or tucked along a rural side road in the middle of open fields, where the proprietors are happy to watch you settle down for a picnic with a bottle or two of wine.
Best of all, in my mind, these are places where wine tasting gets down to earth. These are places where no one needs to show off how developed his or her palate is and where the winemakers welcome questions, from beginners and experts alike. Often, you will also find that these are the wineries where sustainable and organic viticulture is being pioneered. And, above all, these are wines that are likely to be a new experience, with names that you wont find in big retail outlets back home. Amid the back lane wineries of Sonoma, you can still make secret discoveries.
How to Use This Book
THE SONOMA COUNTY WINE REGION is made up of more than a dozen appellations and subappellations, some of them quite small, each with a particular microclimate and with particular grape varietals that thrive in the region. Most of the wineries in the area can be reached by traveling along one of two local highways, Highway 101, which runs in the north-south direction, and Highway 12, which intersects with Highway 101 near Santa Rosa and runs roughly in the east-west direction.