Christophe Blain - In the Kitchen with Alain Passard: Inside the World

IN THE KITCHEN WITH

ALAIN PASSARD

Written and illustrated by

CHRISTOPHE BLAIN

Recipes by

ALAIN PASSARD

With inking by

CLMENCE SAPIN & CHRISTOPHE BLAIN

Graphic concept by

NJIB BELHADJ KACEM

First published in the United States of America in 2013 by Chronicle Books LLC.

First published in France in 2011 by Gallimard.

Copyright 2011 by Gallimard.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced

in any form without written permission from the publisher.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available.

ISBN 978-1-4521-2733-0

Text and illustrations by Christophe Blain

Translation by Elizabeth Bell

Chronicle Books LLC

680 Second Street

San Francisco, California 94107

www.chroniclebooks.com

The chef thanks his team .

Green Caviar Petits Pois
with Pink Grapefruit and Fresh Mint

Heart of Baby Cabbage
and Parmesan Slaw

Green Caviar Petits Pois with Pink Grapefruit and Fresh Mint

SERVES 4

In a large saut pan over low heat, melt 1 tablespoon of salted butter with 4 teaspoons of tiny fresh petits pois ; 4 spring shallots , chopped fine; and 1 clove of garlic , crushed. The size of the saut pan is important: the peas should cover the bottom, but shouldnt be piled on top of each other. When you stir, you should see the bottom of the pan. Add cup of water , cover with parchment paper to preserve the aromas, and allow to simmer and steam for 4 to 6 minutes, depending on the size of the peas.

Season with a pinch of fleur de sel . Serve in four warm soup bowls. Divide among the bowls a freshly peeled, pitted, and thinly sliced grapefruit . Add 4 leaves of fresh mint or lemon balm , chopped fine.

In this recipe, the idea is to warm the tiny petits pois, not to cook them! For larger peas, add a little more water and cook a bit longer .

Called green caviar because tiny petits pois are the size of sturgeon eggs, and just as tender!

Heart of Baby Cabbage and Parmesan Slaw

SERVES 4

Using a mandoline, grate a young loose-leaf cabbage , such as baby bok choy, very finely into a large bowl. You will get a sort of raw sauerkraut. Untangle the shreds and add 1 young carrot , freshly grated; 1 bunch of small red radishes , quartered; 4 small white or black radishes , sliced on a mandoline into thin rounds; and the crushed leaves of bundle of tarragon . Dress with a good spritz of olive oil , 3 to 4 tablespoons of sweetened soy sauce , and 2 tablespoons of grated Parmesan . Voil thats it! Serve with grilled country bread , rubbed with lemon peel .

The Parmesan and soy sauce provide enough salt for this cabbage salad .

Tarragon has an aniselike flavor, which adds freshness and fullness .

Onion Fondue with Sorrel,
Fava Beans, and Fresh Chvre,
with Rhubarb Chutney

Langoustine Carpaccio with Chives

SERVES 4

Wearing rubber gloves, shell 8 raw langoustines , about 3 ounces each. On your work surface, cut each one lengthwise into three thin slices and divide the slices among four plates, filmed with olive oil . Cover each plate with plastic wrap and place another plate on top of the carpaccio, to smooth it and gently press it flat. Chill in the refrigerator. Meanwhile, finely chop a bundle of chives . Place them in a bowl and add cup of heavy cream . Remove the carpaccio from the refrigerator, take off the plastic, and encircle each serving of carpaccio with the chive cream, a dash of olive oil , fleur de sel , and freshly ground pepper . Serve with slices of freshly grilled country bread .

Before you slice each langoustine, remove the intestine with the tip of your knife .

This carpaccio is also good with a touch of lemon juice .

Onion Fondue with Sorrel, Fava Beans, and Fresh Chvre, with Rhubarb Chutney

SERVES 4

Warm your saut pan evenly over low heat. Add 2 tablespoons of salted butter , 1 tablespoon of olive oil , and 3 large onions , thinly sliced on a mandoline. Let the onions soften for 20 minutes, without browning, stirring often. Next add 1 small bowl of peeled raw fava beans , 1 large bowl of fresh green sorrel leaves , and the juice of 1 small lemon . Let the fava beans warm and the sorrel wilt in the hot onions; this is very quick, 3 to 4 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of sweet butter and serve immediately on a warm plate, with a small salad of raw baby spinach tossed with olive oil and topped with a few shards of dry fresh chvre .

On the side, serve this red rhubarb chutney: Cut 2 stalks of rhubarb into -inch chunks. Put them in a large saut pan, without piling them up, and add 12 cubes of sugar , 5 ounces of water , 5 ounces of white vinegar , 4 or 5 crushed hibiscus petals , and 1 tablespoon of mashed red berries , such as raspberries. Cook over low heat to soften the rhubarb, but dont stir, so the pieces will retain their shape.

Be sure to keep the heat low to obtain a delicate, light-colored blend of butter, oil, and liquid from the onion .

Get a Saint-Andr, a large white type of onion from the Cvennes region, if you can .

Why use lemon in an onion fondue? To echo the acidity of the sorrel .

When you shop, if youre lucky enough to find a small bunch of red sorrel, go for it! Its subtle acidity and flowery, springtime flavor will make your dish taste even more delicious. But its hard to find .