Copyright 2016 by Kristen Beddard
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Beddard, Kristen, author.
Title: Bonjour kale : a memoir of Paris, love, and recipes / Kristen Beddard.
Description: Naperville, Illinois : Sourcebooks, [2016]
Identifiers: LCCN 2015047465 | ISBN 9781492630043 (pbk.)
Subjects: LCSH: Cooking (Kale) | Cooking, French. | Beddard, Kristen--Travel.
| Paris (France)--Description and travel. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.
Classification: LCC TX803.G74 B429 2016 | DDC 641.6/5347--dc23 LC record available at http://lccn.loc.gov/2015047465
Contents
To my mom, for giving me kale.
And to Philip, for giving me France.
A Note about the Recipes
As my life has changed since moving to Paris, so has my cooking. The recipes in this book are influenced by Frances culinary tradition, colorful produce, andof coursea little butter and cream.
And while this is a memoir about kale and living in France, the recipes are not only kale or only French. There are other books out there that can guide you to a perfect coq au vin or croque monsieur , and the Internet is an encyclopedia of kale ideas. So Ive chosen to give you a little bit of bothsome kale, some Frenchmany of which are inspired by each other.
Others are recipes that were part of my childhood, remind me of my mother, or are now a staple in my own kitchen. And while there are exact measurements in this book, many of them are meant to be prepared, as the French say, au pif , by the nose. You can add a little more kale, a little less garlic, or an extra stalk of rhubarb. Most recipes have an exact measurement for how much kale to include, but it will not make or break a dish if you use less or add a little more. I only hope that these encourage you to head to the kitchen and cook!
Keeping a Kale Kitchen
Kale comes in many different shapes, sizes, and weights. Some leaves are big, some are small. Some bunches are one pound, some are only one-quarter pound. In France, kale is sold by the kilogram and rarely bunched. Sometimes it is sold as tiny, baby leaves in plastic containers or bags. This makes it a little more difficult to measure out the exact amount of kale for a recipe. In the majority of recipes, its not a problem if you have a little less or a little more than what is called for. Unless a recipe calls for a larger quantity, Ive chosen to measure out kale in cups and grams, already chopped. The measurements are not much different if it is destemmed or if the stems are intact.
Buying Kale
Look for leaves that are a deep green color and avoid leaves that are brown or yellow or extremely tough. Tough kale means it is the end of the season. Kale is a heavily sprayed crop, so if possible, try to buy organic. If not, thoroughly wash each leaf.
Washing Kale
Take each leaf individually and run under water. Move your fingers through each fold and crevice to remove any excess dirt or, if organic, any potential pest.
Destemming Kale
It sounds difficult but destemming kale is easy and quick. After washing each leaf, take both sides of the leaf, fold them together, and rip the stem away from the leaf. Save stems for juicing.
Massaging Kale
The key to any good kale salad is a good kale massage. On already washed and dried kale, add the dressing of your choice and massage the kale with your hands for a minute or so. The dressing will marinate the leaves, slightly wilting them and making them softer to eat and enjoy.
These are a few ingredients and kitchen tools I recommend you keep on hand to complete your kale kitchen:
Lemons, garlic, shallots, olive oil, sherry vinegar, and sea salt: Whether making dressings or sauting, these ingredients are commonly used.
Lemon squeezer: This is something I take away on vacation with meespecially if I know we will be making a lot of salads. Its quick, easy, and efficient. Ive never found anything that juices a lemon as well as thisand it ensures no seeds accidentally fall into the juice.
Tongs: Another item I have a hard time cooking without, tongs are a great tool to use to saut and serve kale.
Salad spinner: I had a friend who once admitted to using a hair dryer to dry the kale she was going to use for kale chipsI bought her a salad spinner for her birthday. Like lettuce, a salad spinner will dry the kale well enough for either storing or immediate use.
Plastic freezer bags: If you buy a lot of greens but want them to last through the week, wash them right away, dry them, and store them in plastic freezer bags in the refrigerator. The leaves will keep longer, and it will be that much easier to cook with the greens throughout the week because the hard work of cleaning and destemming is already done.
Chapter 1
The regional RER train sat on the track at the Gare du Nord station, stripping the romance out of double-decker transportation. It loomed over me, covered in city soot, and let out a big sigh of dirt. A dramatic, French sighif it could have shrugged, it would have. I walked into the carriage, searching for a seat that wasnt torn or already taken over by French youths eating McDonalds, or as the French say, McDo . I could not handle that greasy fast-food smell for the next forty-five minutes.
I found a window seat, and an older woman who seemed to have a gentle spirit sat next to me. We politely and quickly said, Bonjour , rearranged our belongings so they wouldnt touch, and settled in for the journey. My tense body sank into the seat back of springs, broken from the daily grind of commuters, living their lives of mtro , boulot , dodo subway, work, sleep.
As the train pulled out, I cocked my head and looked out the window into the never-ending Paris gray. I was no longer in the postcard version of the city, with the enchanting Louvre and the immaculate gardens. Instead, I was surrounded by graffiti-stained walls, electrical wires crisscrossing overhead, and building after building dissolving into a gray, concrete blur. If I closed my eyes, I could at least block out the somber colors outside, if not the noise of the train and the smell of Le Big Mac .