Insight Guides - Insight Guides: Experience San Francisco

Visit California/Carol Highsmith

San Francisco is 49 square miles surrounded by reality Paul Kantner, Jefferson Airplane

Although its actually 47 square miles, Kantner nailed it. This city of 43 hills on the edge of the continent, separated from the rest of the world on three sides by glittering water, is a place of staggering beauty, rich ethnic diversity, a laidback attitude, and more than a touch of quirk.

San Francisco was born of a pioneer spirit miners flocked here to find their fortunes during the California Gold Rush of 1849, and the debauchery of the Barbary Coast is the stuff of legend. The city has always attracted eccentrics and entrepreneurs, dreamers and doers. The legacy of the Beats in the 1950s, and then the rabblerousing hippies of the 1960s, is an enduring bohemia, a welcoming place to artists and oddballs, and a safe haven for alternative lifestyles.

The best way to get to know San Francisco is on foot. Hiking hills and hidden staircases, you will stumble upon private nooks and dazzling views of an essential American city that leaves a lasting impression in the hearts of all who visit.

San Franciscos free-spirited, tolerant society appreciates the natural beauty of the area as much as an indulgent meal and a good time. So dig in and savor the best dim sum, the tastiest burrito, or the perfect slice of pizza. Swim in the bay with locals, golf on a gorgeous course, or bike across an iconic bridge. See a show at the Fillmore, gallery-hop on first Thursday, or attend a Friday night museum party, and enjoy the whimsically wonderful City by the Bay.

In the Mood for

romance

Dreamstime

Tony Bennett left his heart here, and it is easy to see why. A city of tremendous views, hidden corners, secret stairways, and fine food, San Francisco pulses with romance. Stroll along the windswept coast beneath fragrant eucalyptus at Lands End (for more information, ).

fine dining

Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications

San Franciscans are passionate about food. A multiethnic town that pushes the creative envelope and is on the vanguard of culinary movements, it has an established place at the global table.

To see this food fetish in action, visit the Ferry Building Marketplace (for more information, ). At this epicurean shrine, you can slurp freshly shucked oysters at Hog Island, nibble almost-too-pretty-to-eat chocolates at Recchiuiti, and savor sublime cheese at Cowgirl Creamery.

California cuisine changed the culinary world. You can taste the revolution at many local restaurants, including Boulevard (for more information, ). The five-course tasting menu includes optional wine pairings and a cheese cart, and offers perfectly executed food that bursts with flavor and is nothing short of art.

literary inspiration

Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications

To immerse yourself in San Franciscos literary scene, start at Caffe Trieste (for more information, ), the inspiration for Armistead Maupins Barbary Lane in Tales of the City .

Over in Alamo Square, you can view the pristinely preserved Victorian Westerfield House (for more information, ), a former flophouse described by Tom Wolfe in The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test .

In Union Square, fans of Dashiell Hammett, who used San Francisco as a backdrop in his series of detective novels that includes The Maltese Falcon , can dine at Johns Grill and check out a shrine to the noir classic. It was made into a 1941 film starring Humphrey Bogart as Sam Spade. (for more information, )

A sojourn to 826 Valencia , Dave Eggers pirate-store-meets-writing-center (for more information, ), beloved by locals.

being pampered