Boyle Tish - Grand finales : the art of the plated dessert/a modernist view of plated desserts

ix

Chapter 9

Chapter 45

Chapter 113

Chapter 151

Chapter 195

Chapter 229

Chapter 261

Chapter 299

N E O- C L A S S I C I S M

M I N I M A L I S M

I L L U S I O N I S M

A R C H I T E C T U R A L I S M

I M P R E S S I O N I S M

M 0 D E R N I S M

P E R F O R M A N C E A R T

E C L E C T I C I S M

F U S I 0 N I S M

My sincere thanks and appreciation to the following VIPs: to Michael Schneider, for dreaming up this book concept and putting up with my stubborn (but always rational) little "fits" during this entire project (and for always letting me think I had won the latest argument). To Stephanie Banyas, for making every phone call I ever asked her to make and never complaining (MUCH), and for her help and encouragement in selecting, decoding, and testing these somewhat tricky recipes. And finally, to my family, especially my parents, for their unwavering love and continued support.

TB

My thanks to Christopher Thumann, Susan S. Lee, Anne Thomas, Joanna Rend, Catherine Brophy, and, especially, Stephanie Banyas, for their invaluable help in the preparation of the manuscript. To Mark Kammerer, who kept this project rolling. To Melissa Rosati and Amy Shipper, for their support. To Mary Goodbody and Janice Wald Henderson, for their guidance. Thanks also to Michael Schneider, who first conceived the idea of dessert schools. My love and gratitude to Richard and Rita Moriarty (at last, a book you can show your friends), my wife Geri, and Ryan and Evan (you can show it to your friends too, but wash your hands first). And to Theresa and Jerry Doolan-courage is inspiration.

TM

Twelve years ago I had an idea to start a magazine about desserts and more specifically chocolate desserts, figuring if we could present great recipes coupled with fabulous photos we would have a reasonable chance for success. I remember telling my staff to make sure each recipe "tastes homemade." From that philosophy Chocolatier Magazine was born.

As time passed, the talent level of America's pastry chefs improved greatly. As a result, the philosophy of "tastes homemade" was replaced by a newer philosophy, "complex flavors with a stylized appearance." Dessert preparation became so complex Chocolatier Magazine could no longer bridge the chasm between home bakers and professionals. Enter Pastry Art & Design Magazine, the first magazine written to pastry professionals.

Once pastry chefs were released from the bonds of slices and souffles, there was no stopping them. Today, as never before, dessert has taken the appearance of art, with the plate as its canvas. Grand Finales: The Art of the Plated Dessert defines the various styles of plated desserts being presented today. I emphasize today because who knows where this journey will eventually lead us?

However, this journey could not have begun without the cooperation and efforts of many talented, hardworking people. Mark Kammerer, Stephanie Banyas, Chris Thumann, Susan Lee, Tom Singer, Melissa Rosati, Marianne Russell, Michael Suh, and the staff at VNR- you have my admiration and respect as truly gifted professionals and friends.

To the pastry chefs who contributed to Grand Finales, you are artists in every sense of the word. Also, my thanks to Anne Hersley and the people at the Ritz-Carlton Hotels in Palm Beach and Chicago, The Phoenician Hotel in Scottsdale, and The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone.

On a more personal note, there are a number of people who helped me throughout those twelve years. Thank you Richard, Matthew, Libby, Danny, Jeff, Charlie(s), Anne and, most importantly Andrea, who never let me be anything but positive.

We hope you enjoy reading about our "schools" and their relationship to the world of art and design. While dessert may be the grand finale to every meal, the inspirations and creations of pastry chefs are just beginning. It is truly an evolving art form.

Michael Schneider

Editor-in-Chief

Chocolatier and Pastry Art & Design Magazines

"Styles are not usually defined in a strictly logical way ... The characteristics of styles vary continuously and resist a systematic classification into perfectly distinct groups. "

MEYER SHAPIRO

"I prefer what I make today, because I hate what I did yesterday. "

HANS PETER GRAF

ubert Keller's father was a pastry chef, and Keller spent most of his boyhood in his father's pastry shop in Ribeauville, France. Keller recalls with fondness his father's baba au rhum. After the cake was baked and poached in syrup, Keller's father would set one aside for young Hubert. "He would put a scoop of ice cream inside while it was still cooling," says Keller. "It was delicious. But that was not something that the customer could experience-the warmth of the pastry just as it had been made."