Jaffrey - 100 Essential Curries

Pappadums or papars can be bought in delicatessens in two basic varieties spiced and unspiced. The spiced ones often have a liberal sprinkling of crushed black pepper. They are deep-fried in hot oil and served at cocktail parties. The frying takes just a few seconds. Papars cannot be fried too far in advance, as any moisture in the air tends to make them go limp and they should be crisp. Papars come in several sizes. The large ones can be broken in half and then fried. They expand a bit as they are cooked. Before you set out to make them, put a large platter, well lined with kitchen paper, beside the stove to drain the papars.

Serves 8

810 papars or pappadums

oil for deep-frying, enough for 5cm (2in) in a 25cm (10in) frying pan

Step One Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. When hot, put in one papar. It should sizzle and expand immediately. (If it doesnt, your oil is not hot enough.) Turn it over, leave for a few seconds, and remove with a slotted spoon. Place on a prepared platter with paper towels, and drain.

Step Two Continue as above with all the remaining papars, one at a time. If they begin to brown, your oil is too hot. Serve warm or at room temperature with drinks.

Even though these are served as a first course in many restaurants and there is no reason why they should not be in India they are generally served as a snack with tea. They may also be served with drinks. This particular recipe, in which an egg is used in the batter, comes from my friend, Badi Uzzaman, who played the part of my husband in the television series Firm Friends. A chutney should be served on the side.

Serves 6

1 large egg

1 tablespoon lemon juice

100g (4oz) chickpea flour (also called gram flour or besan)

teaspoon salt

teaspoon chilli powder

teaspoon garam masala

teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon ground cumin

teaspoon ground turmeric

1 fresh, hot green chilli, finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped green coriander

vegetable oil for deep-frying

200g (7oz) onions, peeled and chopped into medium-sized dice

Step One Break the egg into a bowl and beat well. Add 4 tablespoons water and the lemon juice. Mix, add all the chickpea flour and mix well with a whisk. Put in the salt, chilli powder, garam masala, cumin seeds, ground cumin, turmeric, green chilli and green coriander. Mix well and set aside for at least 10 minutes or longer. Mix again with a whisk. The batter should be of a droppable consistency.

Step Two Put the oil for deep-frying in a wok or deep fryer and set over medium heat. You should have at least 7.5cm (3in) oil in the centre of the wok. When hot, put the onions into the batter and mix. (This should always be done just before frying.) Remove heaped teaspoons of the batter and drop it into the hot oil. Use up all the batter this way. Stir and fry the fritters for 78 minutes or until they are a golden red. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a plate lined with kitchen paper. Serve the fritters hot, as soon as they are made.

This is an adaptation of a street-side snack to be found in different forms all over North India.

Serves 1012

7 medium-sized potatoes, boiled ahead of time, and set aside for at least 2 hours to cool

1 teaspoons salt or to taste

23 tablespoons lemon juice or to taste

2 teaspoons ground roasted cumin

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh green coriander

Step One Peel the cooled potatoes and dice them into 1cm (in) cubes. Place in a large bowl. Add the remaining ingredients. Mix well. Check to see if salt and lemon juice are in correct proportions. To serve, place the potatoes on a platter accompanied by toothpicks. Serve with drinks.

Pakoris are similar to Japanese tempura. They are generally eaten with tea, but can also be served with drinks. I have specified potatoes in this recipe, but cauliflower florets, onion rings and peppers are equally good. A karhai is similar to a Chinese wok. It has a rounded base and is almost semi-circular in shape. It is particularly good for deep-frying as it allows you to use a relatively small amount of oil to obtain a good depth in the pan to submerge foods. The is the perfect dip to serve with pakoris, though if youre feeling lazy you could serve Chinese duck sauce, tomato ketchup, or a combination of soy sauce, white vinegar and grated fresh ginger with a dash of Tabasco.

Serves 68

for the batter

100g (4oz) chickpea flour (besan)

1 teaspoon salt

teaspoon ground turmeric

teaspoon ground cumin

teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

teaspoon freshly ground pepper

teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

for the filling

3 medium potatoes, peeled (or other vegetables, see above)

vegetable oil for deep-frying

salt and freshly ground black pepper

to serve

Step One To make the batter, sift the chickpea flour into a bowl. Gradually mix in about 200ml (7fl oz) water until you have a fairly thick batter thick enough to coat the vegetables. Add the other batter ingredients and mix well.

Step Two Cut the potatoes into thin rounds, 1mm ( in) thick, and immerse them in a bowl of cold water.

Step Three Pour sufficient oil into a wok, karhai or other deep-frying pan to give a 67.5cm (23in) depth in the middle. Place over a low heat until hot, but not smoking. Take a few potato slices at a time, wipe them dry and dip them in the batter. Now drop them into the oil in a single layer. Fry slowly for 710 minutes on each side, until they are golden brown and cooked through. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and keep hot while cooking the rest of the pakoris in the same way. Serve the pakoris while they are crisp and hot, with the Plain Tamarind Chutney as a dip.

Prawns cook so fast. The only time you will spend here is in peeling and de-veining them. I like to do this ahead of time and then keep them, washed and patted dry, in a polythene bag in the refrigerator, just ready to be stir-fried. They are perfect as a cocktail snack with toothpicks stuck in them, and also as a first course. You may serve them as a main dish as well. You will find that this recipe will serve six people as a first course or three to four people as a main one.

Serves 68

450g (1lb) medium-sized, raw, headless prawns, peeled, de-veined and washed, then patted dry