Basan - 200 Easy Tagines and More: Hamlyn All Colour Cookbook

hamlyn all colour cookbook

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Aromatic and syrupy, zesty and spicy or sweet and fragrant, a dish of tender meat or succulent vegetables simmered to perfection in buttery sauces with fruit, herbs, honey and chillies: tagines are in a class of their own. They are fundamental to the colourful and sensual cuisine of the culinary landscape of Morocco, Tunisia and Algeria, the region referred to as the Maghreb.

Perched at the northwest corner of the African continent, Morocco acts as a culinary gateway to the native influences of central and northern Africa, to the ancient and medieval traditions of the Arab world and to the Andalucian flavours of southern Spain. From the impressive Atlas and Rif mountains to the majestic cities of ancient dynasties, from the southern deserts with their date-palm oases to the extensive coastline fringed with sun-drenched beaches, Morocco is a land where the medieval and the modern are atmospherically intertwined.

The Arabs, who invaded the region between the 7th and 14th centuries, brought spices, nuts and fruits, some of which were employed in the Persian-inspired meat tagines. The Arabs also brought Islam and its dietary restrictions. The Moors who were expelled from Spain introduced olives, olive oil, tomatoes and paprika to Moroccan cuisine, while Jewish refugees fleeing the Spanish Inquisition brought with them valuable preserving techniques, such as how to make the ubiquitous preserved lemon. The Ottoman Turks also left their mark with sophisticated pastry-making and kebabs, and the Spanish and French who colonized sections of Morocco had a lasting influence on dishes such as soups and sophisticated fish dishes, as well as caf culture, wine-making and the language of the region.

Originally a Berber dish, the tagine evolved as the waves of invaders, refugees and colonists left their stamp on the regions cuisine. Classic tagines include combinations of lamb with dried prunes or apricots; chicken with preserved lemon and green olives; duck with dates and honey; fish cooked with tomatoes, lime and coriander; and lentils simmered with turmeric and ginger. Traditional Berber tagines are renowned for their pungent flavouring of clarified or aged butter combined with onions and fiery spices, whereas more modern, French-inspired tagines might include olives and wine.

The name tagine refers to both the cooked dish and the cooking vessel. The traditional vessel is shallow and round and made of clay with a unique conical lid. Other versions include a cast iron base with an earthenware lid. Designed to lock in the moisture and flavours, enabling the food to cook gently in a small amount of liquid, the finished tagine should be served hot from its cooking vessel or transferred into a decorative one.

The secret of an authentic tagine is to simmer the ingredients over a low heat, enabling them to remain deliciously moist and tender. For meat tagines this cooking process may last several hours, allowing the juices of the meat to combine with the oil, liquid and honey to form a rich, velvety sauce. Generally, the pulse, vegetable and fish dishes do not require long cooking times, but the overall taste and texture of the dish benefits greatly from having been cooked in an earthenware tagine.

Traditionally, tagines are cooked over individual, portable clay stoves that are frequently stoked with charcoal to maintain a constant heat. This charcoal stove diffuses the heat all around the base of the tagine, enabling the liquid to reduce and thicken without drying out. Tagines can also be used in the embers of open fires, and some traditional versions can be baked in wood-burning ovens. More modern methods employ a gas hob and an electric oven.

There are a number of different tagines to choose from but few of the earthenware ones indicate their vulnerability when used over a conventional gas hob. Earthenware tagines cannot be used on an electric ring and, in spite of the accompanying instructions about how to treat your tagine, most of the factory-made vessels, whether they are glazed or not, tend to form hairline cracks when they are placed over a gas flame. A heat-diffuser does help in some cases but it is also worth tempering the tagine with scalding milk prior to using it.

If you are planning to buy a tagine in Morocco, Algeria or Tunisia, there are several different types and sizes to choose from. Some represent a tribe, a particular village or a region, while others are used purely for serving, not for cooking. Outside North Africa, there is less choice, but if you are going to use your tagine for cooking, you must make sure it is glazed. Some tagines also benefit from being soaked in water for 24 hours or from being tempered and seasoned by placing bay leaves and dried sage in the base along with a roughly chopped onion, some garlic, and a generous dollop of olive oil, then filled with water and very gently heated through this removes the earthenware taste from the base of the tagine and prepares it for prolonged cooking over heat. Another method of tempering involves filling the base with milk, slowly bringing it to scalding point, and leaving it to cool. By preparing your tagine in this way, you are rendering it heatproof for a traditional charcoal stove, but not necessarily for a gas hob you may still need a heat diffuser for the hob. Alternatively, you can buy one of the robust cast-iron base tagines with an earthenware conical lid a very practical option for conventional hob and oven cooking.

Tagines vary in size and depth and are not usually designed for large quantities. A large copper pot, the kdra, is usually employed for bigger numbers and feasts.