HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
Y ou will notice this bucket list includes little information about prices, where to stay, where to eat, the best time to go, and what you should pack. Important stuff, but these are practicalities that shift and change with far more regularity than print editions of a book. With this in mind, Ive created online and social media channels to accompany the inspirational guide you hold in your hands. Here you will find practical information, along with videos, galleries, reading suggestions, and more.
By visiting www.canadianbucketlist.com , you can also join our community of Bucket Listers, with exclusive discounts to many of the activities featured in this book, automatic entry to win experiences featured in the book, as well as Facebook forums to debate the merits of these, and new adventures. When you register, you can unlock the entire site by entering the code BUCK3TL15T and navigating through the provinces, or access each item individually with the START HERE link at the end of each chapter.
DISCLAIMER
Tourism is a constantly changing business. Hotels may change names, restaurants may change owners, and some activities may no longer be available at all. Records fall and facts shift. While the utmost care has been taken to ensure the information provided is accurate, the author and publisher take no responsibility for errors, or for any incidents that might occur in your pursuit of these activities.
W hitehorse is south of the Arctic Circle, so there is no Arctic night in late November. Still, the Yukons capital gets light around nine a.m., dark around three p.m., and in between its too damn cold to be outdoors anyway unless youve arrived to go dogsledding, in which case youll want to drive twenty minutes outside of town to Frank Turners Muktuk Kennels.
Although hes originally from Toronto, Frank is a venerable dogsledding legend in the Yukon. Hes the only man to have competed in twenty-three consecutive Yukon Quests, known as the toughest race on earth, routinely placing in the top six, winning it once, and twice receiving the Vets Choice Award for his exceptional treatment of his dogs. Hes the only Canadian-born person to have won the race in three decades, and he held the record for the fastest time record for more than a decade. Joining him for an afternoon dogsled is like having a pond hockey lesson with Wayne Gretzky.
As a dogsledding virgin, I was intrigued, concerned, and ignorant about the concept of harnessing dogs to pull a heavy sled across frozen tundra. When you grow up with apartment dogs, its difficult to believe that certain breeds thrive in such extreme environments. It instantly became clear that Franks dogs are treated with as much respect as, if not more than, any suburban poodle fed the latest naturopathic food, regularly exercised, and treasured like members of a large, mostly canine family. Each Muktuk dog is lovingly named, given a kennel, and cared for by the staff of international volunteers.
The dogs greet me with enthusiastic howls when I arrive, shaking off the cold, a low sun still pinking up the sky. The dogs circle their kennels amidst a cacophony of barking, making for an exciting welcome. Puppies race excitedly in a large, enclosed, wooden hamster wheel. Muktuk doesnt breed and sell its dogs, and theyre made up of various crosses between husky, malamute, wolf, Labrador and tough-as-bones Yukon mutt. Turner frequently takes in local dogs that are in need of a better home, and runs an adoption program for retired sled dogs, but you have to prove yourself a worthy owner first. I inquire how an outdoor sled dog fits into an indoor family home. Go ahead and ask one, he tells me.
Each dog has its name proudly stencilled on its individual green kennel. I hesitantly approach a husky named Falcon, and am surprised to find him as friendly and good-natured as a golden retriever. Most of them are. Turner is confident any one of his dogs would make a loyal, well-trained pet, and treats them as such.
Its time to suit up in the layers of warm gear provided, including military-style snow boots to keep my feet warm and dry. Were heading out to a frozen river in the Takhini Valley, and Im commandeered by the team, collecting dogs from their kennels and carrying them to a customized trailer. Turner drops nuggets of advice as we do so. Its all about teamwork. People think its the rider in control, but its all about the dogs. They need to trust you. If the dogs arent happy, youre not going anywhere. It becomes apparent that despite the spectacular surroundings and the thrill of the sport, dogsledding is more about relationships than anything else.
After a short drive, we arrive at a frozen lake. My eyes become moist, which is not ideal when the temperature is below C. Once unloaded, the dogs eagerly anticipate their run. Frank gives me a brief lesson in dogsledding mechanics: yell Gee! for right, Haa! for left and Whoa whoa! to stop. Sleds have brakes and footpads to control speed. I have six dogs harnessed to my sled, and, as the saying goes, unless youre the lead dog, the view is all the same.
With a whiplash jerk, the dogs set off into the snow, relishing this opportunity to release their pent-up energy. Dog power is not horsepower. Without my control, my team would run themselves senseless, exhausting their energy and possibly injuring themselves. Frank has to constantly remind me to apply the brake, to find the rhythm and flow. Once I do, the true nature of dogsledding teamwork becomes as clear as the ice crystals clinging to the trees. Watching the effort of each dog, muscles pounding beneath thick fur, how their individual personalities influence their speed and endurance, makes me appreciate how little effort I need to expend to glide across the lake. With the dogs in their groove, I can look up and truly absorb the jaw-dropping scenery around me.
ON THE BUCKET LIST: Frank Turner
Id love to go to Newfoundland. My image is that its beautiful, with small communities I can identify with, full of colourful characters. There are some similarities with the Yukon in terms of distance, and I imagine wed both be considered different from the mainstream.
Frank Turner
Owner, Muktuk Kennels
Yukon Quest Winner
We spend a couple of hours racing along the snow and ice, and I get accustomed to my team, their personalities, their strengths. Val is a firecracker, Livingston a loyal, steadying force. Incredibly, a healthy Quest pack can travel around kilometres a day, at a speed of around to kilometres per hour, depending on conditions. I imagine Franks race experiences, wrapped up freezing in the sled as temperatures drop to as low as C, under the bright stars and glowing northern lights. He trains hard all year to prepare his body for the sleep deprivation and physical pounding of the Quest. The unprepared leader puts the team at risk, and the team comes first.