Rudolph Chelminski - The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine

M y first and deepest thanks are owed to Dominique Loiseau, who accepted without reserve my project of a book showing her late husband as I had known him for more than thirty years, with his weaknesses and excesses as well as his incredible energy and the endless warmth of his simple humanity. Dominique spoke of herself, her husband, and their life together with unflinching sincerity. The staff of La Cte dOr made me feel as if I were one of their own, speaking candidly of the boy-man who had been their boss, and to whom they continued to feel a fierce loyalty even after his death. Foremost among them was premier matre dhtel Hubert Couilloud, the rock on whom the entire service side of the house is built. His colleagues Eric Rousseau, Vincent Jousset, and Emmanuel Emonot offered equally precious insights, while Patrick Bertron in the kitchen found the time and patience to explain in minute detail the essence of le style Loiseau , as well as le style Bertron, which has now taken its place. Equally prodigal with help and articulate explanation was Dominiques assistant, Stphanie Gaitey.

Bernards parents, Pierre and Edith Loiseau, graciously received me twice at their home, and his brother Rmy and sister Catherine were equally forthcoming, as was Chantal, his first wife. Claude Verger, his surrogate father in the profession, and Bernard Fabre, his accountant, advisor, and friend, contributed precious character analysis and anecdotes that could not have come from any others associated with him.

Several gastronomic critics and editors of restaurant guides spoke with great eloquence and frankness about their own trade and the other one on which they sit as judges. Foremost were the last four editors of Le Guide Michelin: Andr Trichot, Bernard Naegellen, Derek Brown, and Jean-Luc Naret. Ren Gerbeau, an inspector in the sixties, gave me a fascinating account of life as a monk of gastronomy. Christian Millau, founder of the guide and magazine named after him and Henri Gault, spent an entire day spoon-feeding me a rich menu of his bottomless store of knowledge of food and wine, while Patrick Mayenobe, the latest boss of what remains of GaultMillau , gave a lively, detailed account of the operation today. Franois Simon of Le Figaro never shied from even the most challenging questions concerning his role in the tragedy, and was always helpful and gentlemanly when I came to him for further information. His predecessor on the papers restaurant beat, Michel Piot, was avuncular, forthright, and knowledgeable. Philippe Couderc, the elegant, eloquent dean of restaurant critics, managed to squeeze an entire history semester (Gastronomy 101) into a single lunch. Thanks also to Franois Roboth, Gilles Pudlowski, and Albert Nahmias, all of whom gave of their time, opinions, and memories of Bernard.

In the miscellaneous category (i.e., not directly in the restaurant business themselves) I thank Alain Bories, Jean-Marc Catonn, Christophe Daguin, and Guillaume Potel of Architectes Associs. Thanks as well to Georges Duboeuf, Dr. Ladislas Kiss, Dr. Doron Zeeli, Avital Inbar, Bill Boyd, and Patrice Vappereau, mayor of Saulieu.

Unsurprisingly, Bernards fellow restaurant professionals, especially the chefs, were a particularly rich vein of information. Foremost among them I must cite Pierre Troisgros, who along with his brother Jean took a rawboned teenager from the Auvergne and turned him into a cook. Pierres marvelously keen memories and observations were bolstered by four men who shared apprenticeship with Bernard at Restaurant des Frres Troisgros: Bernard Chirent, Claude Perraudin, Jean Ramet, and Guy Savoy. Paul Bocuse, the idol that Bernard aspired to equal, was witty, intelligent, and perceptive, as usual, and Michel Gurard was a gold mine of historical and professional insights. So many others enlightened me that I would like to give them all three stars, but space here permits nothing more than an alphabetical listing of sincere thanks to: Jean Berteau, Georges Blanc, Michel Bras, Chantal Chagny, Suzanne Chapel, Andr Daguin, Alain Ducasse, Jean Ducloux, Henri Faugeron, Jean Fleury, Pierre Gagnaire, Guillaume Giblin, Jacques Guillo, Philippe Jousse, Jean-Paul Lacombe, Jacques Lameloise, Claude Le Gall, Jean-Michel Lorain, Marc Meneau, Anne-Sophie Pic, Jean-Loup Prvost, Alain Senderens, Claude Terrail, Marc Veyrat, and Roger Verg. Un grand merci tous et toutes .

From the point of view of my own profession, I am indebted to Bill Shinker of Gotham Books for having had faith in this book from the start, and to Lauren Marino and Hilary Terrell for unfailingly sticking with me to see it through to the end. And a final note of thanks to Matthew Guma of Inkwell Management, the guy who was behind this from the very first inkling of an idea. I wish all writers the good luck to have an agent like him.