Averbuck Alexis - Rome

When Duncan first visited Rome in 1996 he had no idea that within three years hed be living there. His Italian adventures began in 1997 when he gave up life as a corporate journalist in southern England and headed off to the Adriatic port of Bari. After an eye-opening two years there, he moved to Rome, just in time to witness the turn of the millennium in Piazza Venezia. He lives with his Italian wife and two kids in the Alban hills, just south of the capital. Since 2002 he has contributed to a raft of Lonely Planet guides to Italy, including the past three editions of this book, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Sardinia and Piedmont.

For this guide Duncan wrote the following chapters: Introducing Rome, Highlights, Getting Started, Background, Art & Architecture, Neighbourhoods, Festivals & Events, Transport and Directory.

Romans, who know a thing or two about the pleasures of eating, like to breakfast standing at a bar with a cappuccino or espresso and a cornetto (croissant). I do too, and I order them at La Tazza d park, which is where I head next.

After a pleasant snooze I start to feel the heat of the afternoon giving way to the cool of the evening and my energy returning. Ive just got time for a quick aperitivo before heading out to Pigneto for a gig at the Circolo degli Artisti (boxed text, ).

Chaos, beauty, endless summer, effortless cool, handsome inhabitants, the ice cream of your dreams, and picture-book countryside on your doorstep: Rome fits Abigails view of an ideal city, and since she visited in 2003 shes never really left. Shes married to an Italian, her first son was born in the Eternal City, and her Italian famiglia live here. Shes written on Rome for various newspapers, magazines and websites, and contributed to Lonely Planets Best of Rome, Italy, and Puglia & Basilicata guides. A freelance writer, she does her best to divide her time between Rome, London and Puglia. For this guide she updated the Eating, Drinking & Nightlife, Shopping, Sleeping, The Arts, Sports & Activities and Excursions chapters.

Ever since Grand Tourists invaded in the 18th century, Rome has been a major tourist attraction. The citys main gateway is Leonardo da Vinci Airport (aka Fiumicino), although if youre flying with a low-cost European airline youll probably land at Ciampino. Both airports are well connected with the city centre. Once in town, youll find the centre is best explored on foot its not big, and the streets are wonderfully vibrant.

Rome is a busy year-round destination, although some months are busier than others. The city is at its most enticing in spring, between April and June the weather is generally good, flowers are blooming and the light is gorgeous. Early autumn (September and October) is another good time. It follows, however, that these months are the busiest of the year and prices are at their highest. Peak rates also apply at Christmas, New Year and Easter.

Visitors are traditionally warned to avoid August, when high temperatures make sightseeing a physical challenge. However, if you can handle the heat, it can be a good time to visit the city is less chaotic than usual, the festival season is in full swing and prices are more manageable (many hoteliers offer discounts to entice holidaymakers from the sea). The trick to surviving Rome in the heat is to adapt your daily routine so that you avoid the hottest time of the day go out in the morning, rest up in the early afternoon and head out again around 5.30pm or 6pm.

Note that many small businesses, including some restaurants and hotels, close for two weeks or so in August.

Romes calendar bursts with events ranging from colourful traditional celebrations with a religious and/or historical flavour to performing-arts festivals. Summer and autumn are the best times to catch the top events. For more info, see the Festivals & Events colour spread; for a list of public holidays, see the Directory, , which lists upcoming free events.

Chiesa di SantEusebio, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II;Vittorio Emanuele

On 17 January animal-lovers take their pets to be blessed at the Chiesa di SantEusebio in honour of the patron saint of animals.

In the week before Ash Wednesday, children take to the streets in fancy dress and throw coriandoli (coloured confetti) over each other.

www.maratonadiroma.it;Colosseo

Sightseeing becomes sport at Romes annual marathon. Held in late March, the 42km race starts and finishes near the Colosseum.

Colosseo & Ottaviano-San Pietro

On Good Friday the pope leads a candlelit procession around the Colosseum. At noon on Easter Sunday he blesses the crowds in Piazza San Pietro.

Culture Week; www.beniculturali.it, in Italian

A week of free entry to museums, galleries and otherwise closed sites. Dates change annually so check the website.

www.riff.it

A weeklong homage to independent Italian and international film. Venues and dates change annually.

Piazza del Campidoglio;Piazza Venezia

Rome celebrates its birthday on 21 April with bands on Piazza del Campidoglio and fireworks all around.

Piazza di Spagna;Spagna

In late April, the Spanish Steps are lined with thousands of brightly coloured azaleas a perfect photo occasion.

Piazza di San Giovanni, Laterano;San Giovanni

Romes May 1 rock concert attracts huge crowds and Italian performers.

www.fotografiafestival.it; Palazzo delle Esposizioni;Via Nazionale

Contemporary photography comes to Rome. Exhibitions are held in the Palazzo delle Esposizioni between late May and August, and in galleries across the city.

www.festivaldelleletterature.it; Roman Forum;Colosseo

Spilling over into June, Romes Literature Festival presents free readings in the atmospheric Basilica di Massenzio in the Roman Forum. DJs provide backing sounds.

www.estateromana.comune.roma.it

Between June and September, Romes big summer festival turns the city into a giant stage. Events range from book fairs to raves and gay parties.