Felder - Red lipstick: an ode to a beauty icon

Cecil Beaton, Portrait of Margaret, Duchess of Argyll (watercolor and pencil on paper),1934. Private collection/photographPhilip Mould Ltd., London/Bridgeman Images,National Portrait Gallery, London.

O F ALL THE STRIKING MAKEUP ITEMS THAT WOMEN rely oninky black mascara, eye-defining liners, powders and creams and gels to contour, conceal, and accentuatenothing has the intense power of red lipstick. Vivid, charismatic, and eye-catching, its feminine but never demure. Sensual, glamorous, and sophisticated, its a bold communicator, telegraphing self-assurance and strengthand, in some contexts, defiancewithout uttering a word.

For some, red lipstick is reserved for special, dressed-up occasions, like a holiday party or big date. For others, its the ultimate power accessory to wear to meetings, a bold flourish that commands attention, underlines authority, and bolsters confidencea foil to insecurity. And then there are the devotees: those women for whom wearing it consistently is a part of their identity, if not a signature.

One of red lipsticks many alluring qualities is that its universally flattering. It looks great on blondes, brunettes, redheads, and women with gray hair; its as well suited to dark complexions as fair ones. It makes both pale and dark eyes sparkle. It works on women from eighteen to eighty. Its the default color of lipstick, says makeup artist Dick Page, a backstage mainstay. Its a neutral.

A love of red lipstick in all its nuanced shadesscarlet, cherry, Bordeaux, and beyondis nothing new. Red lip coloring has been beloved by women for many centuries, albeit in forms different from the ubiquitous bullet-shaped tubes that are synonymous with lipstick today. Its been made from ingredients that have been at various times natural, chemical, moisturizing, and toxic; its been coveted and outlawed. Its various incarnations have been messy, gloppy, oily, and expensive, but nonetheless, it has still garnered a following, thanks to rich color payoff at the end. Today, of course, the evolution in makeup formulation and packaging has made applying lipstick easy to do wherever you are.

But the pleasure of wearing red lipstick is not just about the look. Applying it is a sensuous experience for all, a beloved ritual by many, and its a commitment. Red lipstick asks for reverence, which makes sense considering what it bestows in return. One must honor its power by not only taking the time and care to apply it properly, but to wear it with an eye to upkeep. No self-respecting red lipstick is a last-minute date or the kind of girl who is inclined toward casual relationships: she does not take kindly to being swiped on and has a deep distaste for being diminished to a thin ring of color around the mouth.

A Japanese print advertisement for Shiseido. Shiseido Mizu Oshiroi (Powder Foundation with Water), 1938. Shiseido.

Effort is required to get the application just right, but thats part of the pleasure toothe familiar weight of a favorite tube, chubby crayon, or pot in your hand, and the singular concentration of applying the color well, then outlining the lips with pencil or, as some prefer, filling them in completely, then reapplying the color. Blotting, reapplying, adjusting the line, even sealing with a translucent powder for a long eveningall of this adds up to an empowering ritual no demure pink or soft beige can match.

As unforgiving as applying red lipstick can be, it is well worth the effort, for red is transformative; each little hit of a color brings with it greater self-assurance, sexiness, glamour, magnetism, beauty, and authority.

Red lipstick has been one of my great passionsa beloved obsession, reallyfor many years. The addiction began when I was a teenager, mostly as a rebellious statement during a time when neutral, understated lipstick was in fashion and never looked quite right on my full-lipped, center-of-attention mouth. In a sense, bold and highly pigmented red lipstick was my cosmetic equivalent of a black leather motorcycle jacket or spiked-up hair, my two other obligatory accessories at the time. Red lips made me feel strong and passionate; armed with my carmine mouth, I was ready to be noticed and seen as a nonconformist individual. Come to think of it, thats the way I still feel when I swipe on my lipstick today.