Also by Cameron McNeish
Highland Ways, (KSA)
The Spurbook of Youth Hostelling (Spurbooks)
The Spur Master Guide to Snow Camping (Spurbooks)
Backpackers Scotland (Robert Hale)
The Backpackers Manual (Nordbok)
Ski the Nordic Way (Cicerone Press)
Classic Walks in Scotland, with Roger Smith (Oxford Illustrated Press)
The Munro Almanac (NWP)
The Corbett Almanac (NWP)
The Best Hillwalking in Scotland (The In Pinn)
The Wilderness World of Cameron McNeish (The In Pinn)
The Munros, Scotlands Highest Mountains (Lomond Books)
Scotlands 100 Best Walks (Lomond Books)
The Edge One Hundred Years of Scottish Mountaineering,with Richard Else (BBC)
Wilderness Walks, with Richard Else (BBC)
More Wilderness Walks, with Richard Else (BBC)
The Sutherland Trail, with Richard Else (Mountain Media)
The Skye Trail, with Richard Else (Mountain Media)
Scotland End to End, with Richard Else (Mountain Media)
First published in Great Britain by
Sandstone Press Ltd
Dochcarty Road
Dingwall
Ross-shire
IV15 9UG
Scotland
www.sandstonepress.com
All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced,
stored or transmitted in any form without the express
written permission of the publisher.
Copyright Cameron McNeish 2018
Editor: Robert Davidson
All images as ascribed.
The moral right of Cameron McNeish to be recognised as the
author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the
Copyright, Design and Patent Act, 1988.
The publisher acknowledges subsidy from Creative Scotland
towards publication of this volume.
ISBN: 978-1-910985-95-3
ISBNe: 978-1-910985-96-0
Jacket design by Raspberry Creative Type, Edinburgh
Ebook compilation by Iolaire Typography Ltd, Newtonmore
For Charlotte and Grace
Contents
Looking back over my forty-year career I realise that a number of individuals have been responsible for introducing various strands to my life, elements that have morphed together to create this journey of mine.
My parents initially allowed me the freedom to discover horizons that were beyond the immediate boundary of family and home and my track and field coach, John Anderson, taught me the essential foundations of commitment, hard work and perseverance. Peter Lumley, Roger Smith and the late Clive Sandground presented me with early writing opportunities and Duncan Kirk, Mike Ure and Darren Bruce have been supportive and encouraging magazine publishers.
For radio and television opportunities Im indebted to the late Murdoch McPherson, Christopher Lowell and David Harron, and Richard Else and Margaret Wicks continually encourage and inspire my television work as well as being close friends and neighbours in Badenoch.
Many thanks also to Robert Wight and Garry Fraser of the Scots Magazine for giving me permission to plunder and re-work some features that have appeared in their magazine and a heartfelt thanks to those wonderful colleagues who loyally assisted me on the various magazines I edited over the years, in particular Tom Prentice, John Manning and Emily Rodway.
Individuals like Tom Weir, Bill Murray, Hamish Brown, Jim Perrin, Chris Townsend, Chris Brasher, Jim Crumley, Dick Balharry, Dave Morris and Hamish Telfer here in the UK and Ray and Jenny Jardine and Annie and Dave Getchell in the US have all given freely of their knowledge and experience to make my time in the wild places so much more meaningful and I owe a real debt of thanks to Glenn Rowley, Tim Greening and Rex Munro of KE Adventure Travel for giving me the chance to travel extensively to the Greater Ranges and beyond.
And a very special thanks to my publisher and editor Robert Davidson of Sandstone Press for his support and encouragement and giving me the benefit of his considerable experience and wisdom.
Sincere thanks also to fellow hill goer and actor Sam Heughan for taking time out from a very hectic filming schedule to read my book and write a foreword to it. Im looking forward to many more hill days in Scotland with Sam showing him some of the wild places that his alter ego, Outlanders Jamie Fraser, may not have been familiar with.
Finally, my own family have been constantly supportive and have given me hope for the future. My two sons are frequent companions on various adventures and my wife Gina continues to be the love of my life after forty-five years of marriage. Im delighted that in the autumn of our years we can still enjoy the hills and wild places together and more importantly, simply enjoy each others company. We look forward, in the near future, to introducing our two granddaughters to the joys of the outdoors. This book is dedicated to them.
Bodach nam Beann - the man of the hills.
Adorned with woolly bonnet, walking poles and rucksack, Cameron McNeish can be recognised by his silhouette alone. The most highly respected voice now speaking for and from Scotlands mountains, and their most instantly recognisable figure, his knowledge and expertise derives from his every footstep on every remote Munro and Corbett, and his crossing of each mountain burn. Bodach nam Beann could have given me sound advice when I first discovered the hills for myself...
The icy surface stretched before me, sloping down across a rock shelf to the cliff edge, a fatal ice slide for the unwary hiker. I could barely see a few metres ahead in the mist, and the snow was beginning to fall again. Behind me a white uneven landscape, covering the rocks and gaps between them, would make my eventual retreat slow and tentative. Only my footprints to this point indicated a safe way back and they were already filling with fresh snow. Sheltering behind a boulder, knowing that the summit cairn of Schiehallion was only metres away, I fingered the small pink stone in my pocket, quartz hard enough to cut glass, picked up an hour or so earlier to add to the summit cairn.
A local taxi had dropped me beside the single track road at Braes of Foss, next to a group of trees that partially hid the mountain. I had practically rolled out of the front seat, my head fuzzy with last nights birthday celebrations and a long week of filming in the outdoors. In my tweed hip flask was a drop of the smoky whisky Id been given as a birthday present, a memento from a fellow mountain enthusiast after my first (failed) ascent of a Munro a few months earlier. There had been a few since, and it had become a tradition to take a nip or two after reaching the peak, easing the journey down. Now though, the thought of alcohol was not so appealing.
I considered whether an attempt across the icy surface was worth the risk.
In reasonable hiking boots, several base layers and a technical winter jacket, I wasnt feeling cold, although my hands would turn bright red - then white - if I took them out of my gloves for too long. Id been in this situation before when I foolishly tried to climb Ben Lomond in the snow with no crampons. The closest Munro to Glasgow, it is a popular climb in summer but hazardous in winter. Lost somewhere on the mountains Ptarmigan+ ridge, its lower peak, I climbed too high before losing my balance and sliding downwards for twenty to thirty metres. Digging my raw and frozen fingers into the snow to break the descent I realised that, displaced only a few metres to the right, I could easily have slipped off the mountain. I had become one of those people: foolish, dangerous. The mountains need respect and I resolved to always be not only cautious but also prepared. Then I would enjoy their great heights all the more, and adventure even further into their lesser known world.
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