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Damien Simonis - Barcelona

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Damien Simonis Barcelona
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    Barcelona
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Discover BarcelonaLeave your preconceptions about architecture behind at the curving, coral-like facade of Gauds whimsical Casa BatllSend your tastebuds to seafood heaven with a plate of fideu (Catalan noodles) at a beachfront restaurant near Port OlmpicJoin in the chants of Bara, Bara, Baaara! at Camp Nou, the legendary home ground of the Barcelona football clubWitness the eccentric heights of Catalan creativity in the museums and galleries of Montjuc, Barcelonas cultural hubIn This GuideOne local author, more than 500 hours of research, more than 200 eating and drinking recommendations, and untold morsels of tapas sampledColor sections on the top Barcelona experiences, and awesome architecture from Gaud to the Torre AgbarContent updated daily - visit www.lonelyplanet.com/spain/barcelona for up-to-the-minute reviews, updates and traveler insights

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CONTENTS
THE AUTHOR
Damien Simonis

In 1990, during a continental foray from a rain-sodden London, Damien found himself in pre-Olympics Barcelona. He had never before set foot in Spain. What was it about this town? The crowded produce markets, the dimly lit colmados (treasure caverns of all sorts of weird and wonderful foods), the gaily noisy terraces where chatter mixed so easily with wine, the Gaud colours, the mysterious narrow lanes of the Barri Gtic, the seaside? Perhaps it was all this and some unifying, indefinable quality that got under his skin. Eight years later, Damien turned up in a Rambla-side pensin on assignment for Lonely Planet. And that old magic started doing its work again. A chat with a fellow in a bar and he had a room in a top-floor flat in Gran Via. Barcelona was for years a second home for Damien and is now our restless correspondents main base.

DAMIENS TOP BARCELONA DAY

A great way to kick-start the day is with every-one else, leaning up against a bar over a cafamb llet (coffee with milk), an orange juice and a pastry (preferably something nice and creamy like a canya). A quick read of the paper to find out where we stand on the latest round of squabbling over Catalan autonomy, ETA, the bishops spat with the Socialists and FC Barcelonas results and its time to hit the streets.


LONELY PLANET AUTHORS

Why is our travel information the best in the world? Its simple: our authors are passionate, dedicated travellers. They dont take freebies in exchange for positive coverage so you can be sure the advice youre given is impartial. They travel widely to all the popular spots, and off the beaten track. They dont research using just the internet or phone. They discover new places not included in any other guidebook. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, palaces, trails, galleries, temples and more. They speak with dozens of locals every day to make sure you get the kind of insider knowledge only a local could tell you. They take pride in getting all the details right, and in telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.


There are few monuments in the world like La Sagrada Famlia, not only for its uniqueness but because it is one of the few where you never quite know what this work-in-progress will look like each time you happen by! A visit to the Museu Picasso or the CaixaForum, to catch the latest temporary art exhibition, takes care of the days spiritual nourishment and lunch beckons.

I head into the narrow lanes of La Barceloneta for a slap-up meal of fish or finger-licking mariscos (seafood). The choice of area has a double purpose, for whats a day in Barcelona without a couple of hours lazing on the beach? Time permitting, I like to wander back through El Born, poking my nose into cheese and sweet shops, lingering for a glass of wine at La Vinya del Senyor and working my way north to the Mercat de Santa Caterina. A little gourmet shopping here and off home for a late siesta before heading out again into the night.

First, an elegant meal in one of the many gems scattered across the grid maze of LEixample. From there, its a short taxi ride into the heart of the Barri Gtic for some jazz at the Harlem. If the spirit is willing, another taxi whisks us up into the Zona Alta for a little clubbing at Sutton the Club. As dawn breaks, it is but a short, somewhat dazed, stroll home.

GETTING STARTED

Compact and easy to get around by public transport, Barcelona is geared to tourism and you will find plenty of information on all major tourist attractions. At the same time, it is full of mystery and invites you to spend long days of meandering and discovering. The monuments and museums, mainly concentrated in a relatively small area, could keep you busy for a week or more, but inevitably some of your time will be dedicated to simply hanging out in cafes, bars, eateries and at the beach. Consider setting aside a day or two for excursions (). Take care, particularly on arrival, as petty crime directed at tourists laden with cameras and bags is, unfortunately, common.

WHEN TO GO

Barcelona is a year-round destination; as ideal for a long weekend city break as for a six-month sabbatical. It is a good idea to time a trip with one eye on events and the other on the weather (see (). Many associate Barcelona with the summer sun, but August can be a poor choice the city broils and swarms with tourists as the locals disappear to more salubrious climes. It is certainly better to come around mid-June or September. If beach time is not a priority, you can easily find sunny (if chilly) weather and fewer visitors in January and February. You stand a good chance of striking rain from April to May and October through November.

FESTIVALS

Whether its being chased by fire-spitting demons or joining parades of giants, meandering through the decorated streets of Barcelonas barris (neighbourhoods) with beer in hand, or crowding into a mega-concert at the Frum, the city proffers a plethora of festivals. Many are steeped in colourful tradition, while others are modern affairs focused on concerts, theatre or sport. Some envelop the entire city; other lively local festes are limited to a particular barri. Events take place throughout much of the year, although there is more activity in the warmer months. For a list of official public holidays in Barcelona, see ().

January
ANY NOU/AO NUEVO (NEW YEARS DAY)

Like Cap dAny/Noche Vieja (New Years Eve) anywhere, this occasion can create but not always fulfil expectations. Many locals arrange parties in their homes as restaurants, bars and clubs fill to bursting and charge like wounded bulls. Rowdy folks also gather around Plaa de Catalunya.

REIS/REYES

Epifana (Epiphany) on 6 January is also known as the Dia dels Reis Mags/Da de los Reyes Magos (Three Kings Day), or simply Reis/Reyes, perhaps the most important day on a Barcelona kids calendar. According to tradition, this is when they receive gifts (although Christmas has made heavy inroads). The holiday itself is quiet, but on 5 January children delight in the Cavalcada dels Reis Mags (Parade of the Three Kings), a colourful parade of floats and music, during which countless sweets are launched from the floats into the crowds.

FESTES DELS TRES TOMBS

A key part of the festival of Sant Antoni Abat, the patron saint of domestic and carriage animals, is this Feast of the Three Circuits, a parade of horse-drawn carts in LEixample near the Mercat de Sant Antoni every 17 January.

February
BARCELONA VISUALSOUND

www.bcnvisualsound.org, in Catalan

This 10-day festival brings together audiovisual creators in a celebration of emerging stars in the making of anything from video to multimedia art.

BARNASANTS

www.barnasants.com, in Catalan

Each year the citys main live-music venues host a bevy of Catalan, Spanish and Latin American singer-songwriters for concerts spread over a period from the end of January until about mid-March.

CARNESTOLTES/CARNAVAL

Celebrated in February or March, this festival involves several days of fancy-dress parades and merrymaking, ending on the Tuesday 47 days before Easter Sunday. The Gran Rua (Grand Parade) takes place on the Saturday evening from 5.30pm. Down in Sitges () a much wilder version takes place. The gay community stages gaudy parades and party-goers keep the bars and clubs heaving for several days running.

DE CAJN FESTIVAL FLAMENCO
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