Editors Out - Time Out Madrid

Despite the recession, Madrid is in fine form; mayoral-led urban renewal projects over the past few years have given the city a much-needed facelift and improved its infrastructure, while iconic new architecture and a more outward-looking attitude have freshened up the grandiose vibe it inherited from its Bourbon and Habsburg past. While many traditional features remain, Madrid feels more cosmopolitan and modern than it has in decades.

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With the extensions to the Prado, the Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Reina Sofa now complete, Madrid is firmly established as one of the worlds best cities for art. But go beyond the frames and youll find a plethora of excellent small museums, as well as beautiful gardens in the form of the Retiro and the Jardn Botnico. Due to Madrids compact size, many of its key sights can be reached on foot, via the citys medieval streets or the leafy Paseo del Prado.

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With increased multiculturalism has come a widening of tastes, reflected most clearly in Madrids restaurant scene, which now encompasses cuisines from all over the world, as well as the homegrown nueva cocina. Lively old tapas joints now rub shoulders with chic bars, while traditional small shops have been joined by a wave of fashion-forward boutiques. The boutique concept also hit the hotels market a few years ago, and hasnt looked back.

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Madrids film and rock music scenes grew out of the 1980s counter-cultural movement, and still fuel its cultural arena along with new strands of popular music, such as flamenco fusion. A new set of multidisciplinary arts centres, meanwhile, has led to more cutting-edge fare in a city long dominated by tradition. And although Madrids legendary nightlife is less notorious than it once was, theres still plenty of (extremely) late-night fun to be had.

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The stately cities of Toledo and Segovia, and the palaces, monastries and gardens at Aranjuez, La Granja, Riofro and El Escorial all make excellent escapes from the capital. In summer, the cool mountain air of the sierras beckons, with superb hiking and camping and spectacular landscapes; while in winter, head to one of the nearby country towns to hole up in a traditional mesn, with red wine, a log fire and some suckling pig.

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10AM Start the day in the Puerta del Sol, Madrids official centre, by enjoying a coffee and a pastry in La Mallorquina something of a Madrid institution.

11AM Head south-east down the Carrera de San Jernimo until you reach the . Madrids three world-famous art museums the Thyssen, the Prado and the Reina Sofa are all in the vicinity, but we dont suggest you try to tackle them all. The Museo del Prado, based on Spains royal collections, is the absolute dont-miss. Buy a ticket from the machine outside to skip the queues, and head to the Goya rooms. Other highlights include Boschs Garden of Earthly Delights and Velzquezs Las Meninas.

2PM Lunch in Madrid is from 2pm, when many restaurants offer a well-priced men del da. Newcomer on the right its vertical garden is now one of the most photographed spots in town.

4PM After a morning of culture, you might like to enjoy some of Madrids green highlights; the restful lies just off the Paseo del Prado, while the Retiro park, with its boating lake, buskers and shady avenues, is reached via the recently pedestrianised Cuesta de Moyano , lined with upmarket second-hand book stalls.