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Joy Santlofer - Food City: Four Centuries of Food-Making in New York

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Joy Santlofer Food City: Four Centuries of Food-Making in New York
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Food City: Four Centuries of Food-Making in New York: summary, description and annotation

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A 2017 James Beard Award Nominee: From the breweries of New Amsterdam to Brooklyns Sweetn Low, a vibrant account of four centuries of food production in New York City. New York is hailed as one of the worlds food capitals, but the history of food-making in the city has been mostly lost. Since the establishment of the first Dutch brewery, the commerce and culture of food enriched New York and promoted its influence on America and the world by driving innovations in machinery and transportation, shaping international trade, and feeding sailors and soldiers at war. Immigrant ingenuity re-created Old World flavors and spawned such familiar brands as Thomas English Muffins, Hebrew National, Twizzlers, and Ronzoni macaroni. Food historian Joy Santlofer re-creates the texture of everyday life in a growing metropolisthe sound of stampeding cattle, the smell of burning bone for char, and the taste of novelties such as chocolate-covered matzoh and Chiclets. With an eye-opening focus on bread, sugar, drink, and meat, Food City recovers the fruitful tradition behind todays local brewers and confectioners, recounting how food shaped a city and a nation.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR Annie Powers Joy Santlofer was the editor-in-chief of NY - photo 1

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Annie Powers Joy Santlofer was the editor-in-chief of NY - photo 2

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Annie Powers Joy Santlofer was the editor-in-chief of NY Food Story She - photo 3

Annie Powers

Joy Santlofer was the editor-in-chief of NY Food Story. She earned her Masters in Food Studies at New York University and joined the faculty after graduation. Santlofer, who spent five years researching Food City, died unexpectedly in August of 2013, but her book was completed by her husband, Jonathan Santlofer, an artist and best-selling novelist and their daughter Doria, a professional photographer and stylist, along with Joys sister, Kathryn Rolland, and editor Jack Beatty.

Copyright 2017 by the Estate of Joy Santlofer
Foreword copyright 2017 by Marion Nestle

All rights reserved
First Edition

For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book,
write to Permissions, W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.,
500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110

For information about special discounts for bulk purchases, please contact
W. W. Norton Special Sales at specialsales@wwnorton.com or 800-233-4830

Book design by Chris Welch

Jacket design by David J. High, highdzn.com

Jacket art credits on p. 432

Production manager: Julia Druskin

The Library of Congress has cataloged the printed edition as follows:

Names: Santlofer, Joy, author.
Title: Food city : four centuries of food-making in New York / Joy Santlofer
; foreword by Marion Nestle.
Description: First edition. | New York, NY : W.W. Norton & Company, Inc.,
[2017] | Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2016024817 | ISBN 9780393076394 (hardcover)
Subjects: LCSH: Food industry and tradeNew York (State)New YorkHistory.
| FoodNew York (State)New YorkHistory. | New York (N.Y.)History.
Classification: LCC TX360.U63 N48 2017 | DDC 338.4/766409747dc23 LC record
available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016024817

ISBN 978-0-393-24136-5 (e-book)

W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.
500 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10110
www.wwnorton.com

W. W. Norton & Company Ltd.
15 Carlisle Street, London W1D 3BS

There are many people to thank in regards to this book, and I wish Joy were here to thank them all. I will do my best but I apologize in advance to any of her many friends and colleagues whom I may forget. It is a simply an oversight. Joy knows you helped her and so do you.

First and foremost, the true light of Joys life, our daughter, Doria, who wanted to help and found a practical way to do so by creating an amazing and successful Kickstarter campaign that helped see this book through to completion.

And to the people who helped Doria with the KickstarterDrew Reilly, Alison Matheny, Anna Dunn, Teddie Davies, Nino Cirabisi, Colu Henryher thanks and mine.

A heartfelt thanks to the artists who created works that honored Joy and were sold to help finish this book: Jane Kent, David Storey, James Sienna, Susan Crile, Kira Nam Greene, Brenda Goodman, Ben Edmiston.

Special thanks to Joys colleagues and friends, Renee Marton, Cathy Kaufman, Jonathan Deutsch, Ellen J. Fried, and Meryl Roshofsky, who, when asked to read segments of Joys manuscript and make suggestions, all said they would be honored to do so and did a wonderful job. And again, Cathy Kaufman along with Ari Ariel at Culinary Historians of New York, where Joy once served as editor and helped create their beautiful newsletter journal, NY Food Story.

I know Joy would particularly want to thank Jay Barkdale, formerly of the New York Public Library, for his tremendous support of her research for this book, as well as everyone at the New-York Historical Society, where Joy researched so much of this book, and for whom she had the utmost respect.

To Joys NYU colleagues and friends, Jennifer Berg, Krishnendu Ray, Laura Shapiro, Amy Bentley, and many others, Joy always said she was honored to be among you.

Joys first mentor in the Food History world, Betty Fussell, and Les Dames dEscoffier, who I believe awarded Joy her first food writing grant.

Thank you to Marion Nestle for her incredible generosity and beautiful words.

An enormous debt is owed to the brilliant and unflappable Jack Beatty, who did what almost no one else could doedit and reorder Joys epic manuscript, and did so with intelligence, calm, sensitivity, and grace. If anyone out there is in need of a great editor, Jack is your man.

With an additional debt of thanks to Emily Fairey for her research and hard work, and to Jessica Gordon, for excellent photo research.

Special thanks to Dan Conaway, Joys agent, and a good friend, who not only stuck by this book, but stuck by me throughout.

And to Alane Mason, the editor who believed in this book from the beginning and made sure it was publishedand to her very able assistant, Marie Pantojan.

I dont think I could have completed this project without my sister-in-law Kathy Rolland, who helped in every conceivable way by reading, editing, and contributing, who offered her shoulder to lean on, and is simply one of the best people in the world. Joy was smart to choose her as her sister.

With thanks to the following people, companies, and magazines who contributed generously to Dorias Kickstarter campaign for this book, and some who simply donated generously on their own: Jack & Jane Rivkin, Jane OKeefe, Floyd Lattin & Ward Mintz, Lauren OKeefe, Lewis & Ali Sanders, Susan Crile, Catherine Murphy & Harry Roseman, Caren & David Cross, Michael Lodish, Diane Keaton, Margo Alexander, Colu Henry, Bruce & Micheline Etkin, Michelle Leblond, Richard & Rhona Ross, Elaina Richardson, Patricia Towers, Noreen Tomassi, Janet Froelich & Richard Stepler, Karyn & Bruce Greenwald, Kathy Epstein, Pamela Sanders, Carol Browne, Sydie Lansing, Roberta Denning, Louise & Gerry Puschel, Joan Katsky, Caroline Hyman, Meryl Rosofsky, Max Nilsson, Jim Fusilli, Max Berlinger, Gail Gregg, Susan Yager, Janice Deaner, Thomas A. Servos, Peter R. Freeman, McKenna Jordan, Amy Bentley, Elizabeth Buonomo, Arik Nagel, Scott Bornkessel, Jane Friedman, Jordan Cross, Edie and Peter Kulla, Linda Kulla, Jeanne Vass, Gemma Sands, Anna Dunn, Jonas Paterno, Harriet Mays Powell, Lauren Peden, Felipe Saint-Martin, Glenn & Mia Brill, Jimmy Bradley, Kerry Diamond & Claudia Wu, Anna Hoberman, Dee Owen, Alison Matheny, Megan Abbott, Martha Bunch, Kristina Ho, Jilann Sneider, Edward Feuerstein, Janice Lee, Peggy Dervitz, Monica Carpentieri, Judd Tully, Barbara Toll, David Falk, Susan Unterberg, Curt Brill, Nino Cirabisi, Dr. Joe Luciani, Sean Chercover, Douglas Lyle Thompson, Cecile Garfinkel Biltekoff, Joshua Jones, Barney Kulok, Jill Snyder, Kate Kuchler, Jana Nesbitt Gale, Jane Kent, Eva Orner, Jill Fisher, Heather Myers, Michael Casarella, Charles & Mariann Casarella, Jennifer Berg, Swanna & Alan Saltiel, Patrick Taurel, Archit Budhraja, Ivy Baer Sherman, Alexis Wisniowski, Catherine Davis, Pavel Zoubok, Rachel Tepper Paley, Todd Sinett, Jim Kempner, Bob & Didi Scott, Tess Baldwin, Christie Verola, Wendy Feinberg, Margo Viscusi, Warren & Eva Brill, Candace King Weir, Susan Verde, Doris White, Elisa & Guy Owen, Cheryl Tan, Nicole Bari Wyman, Drew Reilly, Annie Powers, Cassie Marketos, Maris Kreizman, Renee Park, SJ Rozan, Sierra Tishgart, Joe Campanele, Cyndi Ramirez, Sam Talbot, Angie Mar-Jane Kent & David Storey, Bonnie Vee, Peden + Munk, Stay Best, Cherry Bombe, Gather Journal, Bon Appetit

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