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Mara Vorhees - New England

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Mara Vorhees New England
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New England: summary, description and annotation

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Explore the Boston of herons, hawks, muskrats and crabs by camping at Boston Harbor Islands

Follow the journey your garbage takes at the Trash Museum

Quaff hoppy pale ales and heady stouts in Vermonts microbreweries

Tackle Americas premiere hiking route, the Appalachian Trail

In This Guide:

Six local authors, 3000 research hours, 105 Boston bars and restaurants

Expanded outdoors coverage from the White Mountains to the Cape

Content updated daily - visit lonelyplanet.com for up-to-the-minute reviews, updates and traveler insights

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Contents
Destination New England

Youre likely to return from New England with an album of images: white-clapboard churches on well-manicured greens; red-brick buildings on leafy college campuses; granite mountains majestically ablaze with fall colors; paint-peeling fishing boats bobbing at their mores. New England is all that, and more.

Its a politically liberal region. Look at voting records, elected officials and enacted policies: the liberal status is undeniable. The most conspicuous example? Five out of six states have legalized some form of same-sex union (an act that other states in the union are outlawing). But as always the situation is more nuanced than the image implies. Case in point: of the regions two homegrown candidates in the 2008 presidential election, the frontrunner was a Massachusetts Republican.


FAST FACTS

Population of six New England states: 14.3 million

Total area of New England states: 72,000 sq miles

Miles of coastline in New England: 4965

Lobster sheds its shell in the first five years of life: 25 times

Unemployment rate in six New England states: 4.5%

Number of tea crates emptied into Boston Harbor on December 16, 1773: 342

Gallons of maple syrup produced in Vermont annually: 430,000

Number of thru-hikers who started the Appalachian Trail in Springer Mt, Georgia in 2007: 1125

Number of thru-hikers who finished the Appalachian Trail in Katahdin, Maine in 2007: 159


New England is increasingly international. It has long been a destination for immigrants from Ireland, Italy and Portugal, and the mixture is becoming even more diverse. Chinatown is expanding in Boston, while Brazilian flags are strewn about the suburbs. Hartford and Springfield are havens for Haitians, while Vietnamese and Cambodians are settling in Lowell. The result is a richer, spicier and more complex blend of cultures.

Besides rural charm, New England is also about urban grit. Industrial and port cities around the region were built on the backs of factory workers, mill girls and sailors. Today towns like Salem, Mystic, Lowell, Providence and Portland are remaking themselves as trendsetters and tourist destinations, building museums out of former factories, opening restaurants in old warehouses, offering cruises on canals and walks around working harbors.

No matter what new identity these cities take on, however, they retain their edgy undersides, fuelling innovative art and nonstop nightlife. Which brings us to our next point: New England is at the cutting edge of culture. With the recent opening of the Institute of Contemporary Arts in Boston, the region is now home to two exciting, experimental contemporary art museums. Indie bands rock out in Boston, Portland, Providence and Burlington. The world-renowned Boston Symphony Orchestra takes its show on the road in summer, delighting audiences in the Berkshires. Around the region concert series, film festivals and theater productions make for a cultural calendar that is jam-packed and jaw-dropping.

New England is big on outdoor adventure: youll find a sport for every season. Whether youre hurdling over carriage roads on a mountain bike or swooping down a snowy slope on a snowboard, the rounded peaks of the regions mountain ranges give everyone a rush. While youre paddling the luxuriously languid inland lakes or rafting down a rippling river, her waterways awaken your senses. Whether youre bird-watching or building sand castles, her windswept beaches are beguiling.

New England is history. Its the Pilgrims who came ashore at Plymouth Rock and the minutemen who fought for American independence. But its also contemporary. Its the farmers and fishermen struggling for survival; students and immigrants, always adapting. New England oozes individuality and diversity; its colorful and controversial, free-thinking and forward-looking.

Getting Started


Although New England is geographically small, it contains an unlimited array of outdoor adventures, culinary treats, cultural diversions and artistic masterpieces. The main challenge in planning a trip may be deciding between them! So here is our first word of warning: dont try to pack too much into too little (and were not talking about your suitcase). If you find yourself with some unprogrammed time on your hands, there is no shortage of spontaneous pursuits to engage you on the spur of the moment.

That said, its worth making a few advance arrangements if you are combing the beaches of Cape Cod in summer, leaf-peeping in the Green or White Mountains in October, or celebrating with the students during graduation week in Boston. Reserving a room in advance is advisable, especially if you have your heart set on staying somewhere in particular.

For the most flexibility and freedom of travel, consider renting a vehicle or bringing your own. Except for the city of Boston, New England is prime road-trip country. Driving your own car (or bicycle!) will ensure that you explore more back roads, browse more antique shops, devour more diner specials and engage in more of what New England has to offer.


See Climate Charts () for more information.


WHEN TO GO

With four distinct seasons, travel in New England presents four different faces. If youre prepared to roll with abrupt and dramatic weather changes, you can explore New England year-round. Although many travelers think of New England primarily as a summer destination, that would unduly discount the entire catalog of winter sports ().

If temperate spring weather lasts a while, traveling from late April to early June can be glorious, with apple and cherry trees in bloom and farmers out tapping maple trees for sap (see the boxed text, ). If spring is short, as it usually is, it may arrive on a Tuesday, and be followed on Wednesday by the heat and humidity of summer.

In July and August, summer resort areas are very busy, accommodations are fully booked and restaurants are crowded. With the exception of the coast or mountains, summers can be uncomfortably humid. Unless your heart is set on swimming, time your travel to occur between mid-May and mid-June, before local schools close and families hit the road (but avoid Boston at the end of May when the city is packed for college graduations).


DONT LEAVE HOME WITHOUT
  • Checking the visa situation ()
  • Checking the updated security regulations at the airport. Remember to put Swiss army knives and toiletries (over 5 oz) in your suitcase, as you wont be allowed to carry them on the airplane.
  • Drivers license and car insurance ()
  • A jacket or sweater (even in summer) if youre lingering on the coast or in northern mountains
  • Lightweight rain gear for spring and fall
  • A demure bathing suit (remember, New England is full of Puritans)
  • Binoculars for whale- and bird-watching
  • An insatiable appetite, a pleasure-seeking palate and a taste for boutique ice cream

Another great time is early September after the big summer rush but before the leaf-peepers (foliage tourists) arrive. The weather in these shoulder seasons is generally warm and sunny. Autumn harvest time means fresh cranberries on sale in the markets, pick-your-own fruit days and cider-making at orchards ().

Early November is a serene, almost haunting, time before the snows hit and icy winds blow. Winter can be severe or moderate, but its rarely mild. December to March is ski season in the mountains. Almost all of interior New England experiences harsh weather with lakes iced in until April. When its not snowing, however, youll likely find winter in New England to be bright and sunny.

For more details, see the Climate sections in individual regional chapters.

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