Smith Paul - Bolivia

A place of mind-boggling superlatives, landlocked Bolivia really packs a punch. The hemispheres highest, most isolated and most rugged nation, its among the earths coldest, warmest and windiest spots, with some of the driest, saltiest and swampiest natural landscapes in the world. Its also a land of paradoxes: South Americas poorest country, Bolivia is the richest on the continent in natural resources. But the superlatives dont end here. Over 60% of the population claim indigenous heritage, including Aymar, Quechua and Guaran, making it South Americas most indigenous country.

Bolivias natural treasures are many and marvelous, from soaring mountain peaks and surreal salt flats to steamy jungles and wildlife-rich grasslands. Exploring the cultural aspect the countrys vibrant ancient traditions and preserved colonial cities offers unparalleled delight. Most visitors stick to the well-worn paths of the Altiplano, but theres plenty to see and do elsewhere, from dense rainforests to snowcapped cordilleras. While Bolivia is now well and truly on the travelers radar, its still largely raw and undeveloped. This may be a boon for intrepid travelers, but its a perennial source of problems for Bolivians notable changes have been sweeping Bolivias formidable landscapes in the last few years.

Since 2005, Bolivia has been undergoing a revolution of sorts virtually synonymous with former cocalero (coca grower) Evo Morales, Bolivias first indigenous president. In January 2009, he pushed through a groundbreaking new constitution. Approved in a nationwide referendum by 67% of the population, it grants previously unheard-of rights to the countrys indigenous majority and allows the president to seek a second five-year term in office.

This was stellar news for the working classes and the indigenous population of the western highlands but not for everyone in Bolivia. In fact, many middle- and upper-class Bolivians, especially in the energy-rich eastern provinces, are vehemently critical of Morales anticapitalist stands and socialist ideologies. This opposition led to violent protests in autonomy-hungry Santa Cruz in September 2008 (with 11 dead), and the alleged attempt at presidential assassination in April 2009.

Another hot topic is the trial of former president, Goni Snchez de Lozada, who stands accused, together with 16 members of his cabinet, for 67 deaths during the 2003 protests in La Paz. The trial opened in May 2009 in absentia; Goni still lives in Maryland and the unheeded request to the US for extradition is one of several sore points (including the controversial coca) between Bolivia and the USA. Since the diplomatic talks in spring 2009, the worn ties between the two have been on the slow mend.

In addition to Bolivias internal strife, Morales has other things on his plate, such as the management of Bolivias so far untapped lithium reserves (the worlds largest) and the election in December 2009. With his approval ratings still high, at presstime it looked like he was in for a second term. How he will manage to keep his polarized country in check remains to be seen. As the Bolivians themselves say, vamos a ver