NetLibrary Inc. - Fashion-ology an introduction to fashion studies

Dress, Body, Culture

Series Editor: Joanne B. Eicher, Regents Professor, University of Minnesota

Advisory Board:

Ruth Barnes, Ashmolean Museum, University of Oxford

Helen Callaway, CCCRW, University of OxfordJames Hall, University of Illinois at Chicago

Beatrice Medicine, California State University, Northridge

Ted Polhemus, Curator, Street Style Exhibition, Victoria and Albert Museum

Griselda Pollock, University of Leeds

Valerie Steele, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology

Lou Taylor, University of Brighton

John Wright, University of Minnesota

Books in this provocative series seek to articulate the connections between culture and dress which is defined here in its broadest possible sense as any modification or supplement to the body. Interdisciplinary in approach, the series highlights the dialogue between identity and dress, cosmetics, coiffure and body alternations as manifested in practices as varied as plastic surgery, tattooing, and ritual scarification. The series aims, in particular, to analyze the meaning of dress in relation to popular culture and gender issues and will included works grounded in anthropology, sociology, history, art history, literature, and folklore.

ISSN: 1360-466X

Previously published in the Series

Helen Bradley Foster, New Raiments of Self: African American Clothing in the Antebellum South

Claudine Griggs, S/he: Changing Sex and Changing Clothes

Michaele Thurgood Haynes, Dressing Up Debutantes: Pageantry and Glitz in Texas

Anne Brydon and Sandra Niessen, Consuming Fashion: Adorning the Transnational Body

Dani Cavallaro and Alexandra Warwick, Fashioning the Frame: Boundaries, Dress and the Body

Judith Perani and Norma H. Wolff, Cloth, Dress and Art Patronage in Africa

Linda B. Arthur, Religion, Dress and the Body

Paul Jobling, Fashion Spreads: Word and Image in Fashion Photography

Fadwa El Guindi, Veil: Modesty, Privacy and Resistance

Thomas S. Abler, Hinterland Warriors and Military Dress: European Empires and Exotic UniformsLinda Welters, Folk Dress in Europe and Anatolia: Beliefs about Protection and Fertility

Kim K.P. Johnson and Sharron J. Lennon, Appearance and Power

Barbara Burman, The Culture of Sewing

Annette Lynch, Dress, Gender and Cultural ChangeAntonia Young, Women Who Become Men

David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style

Nicola White, Reconstructing Italian Fashion: America and the Development of the Italian Fashion Industry

Brian J. McVeigh, Wearing Ideology: The Uniformity of Self-Presentation in Japan

Shaun Cole, Don We Now Our Gay Apparel: Gay Mens Dress in the Twentieth Century

Kate Ince, Orlan: Millennial Female

Nicola White and Ian Griffiths, The Fashion Business: Theory, Practice, Image

Ali Guy, Eileen Green and Maura Banim, Through the Wardrobe: Womens Relationships with their Clothes

Linda B. Arthur, Undressing Religion: Commitment and Conversion from a Cross-Cultural PerspectiveWilliam J.F. Keenan, Dressed to Impress: Looking the Part

Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth Wilson, Body Dressing

Leigh Summers, Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian Corset

Paul Hodkinson, Goth: Identity, Style and SubcultureMichael Carter, Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes

Sandra Niessen, Ann Marie Leshkowich and Carla Jones, Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress

Kim K. P. Johnson, Susan J.Torntore and Joanne B. Eicher, Fashion Foundations: Early Writings on Fashion and Dress

Helen Bradley Foster and Donald Clay Johnson, Wedding Dress Across Cultures

Eugenia Paulicelli, Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt

Charlotte Suthrell, Unzipping Gender: Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture

Yuniya Kawamura, The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion

Ruth Barcan, Nudity: A Cultural Anatomy

Samantha Holland, Alternative Femininities: Body, Age and Indentity

Alexandra Palmer and Hazel Clark, Old Clothes, New Looks: Second Hand Fashion

DRESS, BODY CULTURE

Fashion-ology

An Introduction to Fashion Studies

First published in 2005 by

Berg

Editorial offices:

First Floor, Angel Court, 81 St Clements Street, Oxford OX4 1AW, UK 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010, USA

Yuniya Kawamura 2005

All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the written permission of Berg.

Berg is the imprint of Oxford International Publishers Ltd.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Kawamura, Yuniya, 1963

Fashion-ology : an introduction to fashion studies / Yuniya Kawamura.

p. cm

Includes bibliographical references.

ISBN 1-85973-809-5 (hardback : alk. paper) ISBN 1-85973-814-1 (pbk. : alk., paper) 1. Fashion. 2. Fashion design. 3. Fashion designers. 4. Clothing and dress Symbolic aspects. I. Title

TT519.K38 2005

391 dc22 2004023162

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 1 85973 809 5 (hardback)

1 85973 814 1 (paperback)

Typeset by Avocet Typeset, Chilton, Aylesbury, Bucks

Printed in the United Kingdom by Biddles Ltd, Kings Lynn.

www.bergpublishers.com

To my family

Yoya, Yoko and Maya Kawamura