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Melissa Fuster - Caribeños at the Table

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Caribeos at the Table Caribeos at the Table How Migration Health and Race - photo 1
Caribeos at the Table
Caribeos at the Table
How Migration, Health, and Race Intersect in New York City
Melissa Fuster
The University of North Carolina Press CHAPEL HILL
2021 The University of North Carolina Press
All rights reserved
Set in Merope Basic by Westchester Publishing Services
Manufactured in the United States of America
The University of North Carolina Press has been a member of the Green Press Initiative since 2003.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Fuster, Melissa, author.
Title: Caribeos at the table : how migration, health, and race intersect in New York City / Melissa Fuster.
Description: Chapel Hill : The University of North Carolina Press, 2021. | Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2020055722 | ISBN 9781469664569 (cloth ; alk. paper) | ISBN 9781469664576 (pbk ; alk. paper) | ISBN 9781469664583 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Caribbean AmericansHealth and hygieneNew York (State)New York. | Caribbean AmericansNew York (State)New YorkSocial conditions. | Cuban AmericansFoodNew York (State)New York. | Puerto RicansFoodNew York (State)New York. | Dominican AmericansFoodNew York (State)New York. | Health and raceSocial aspectsNew York (State)New York. | HealthSocial aspectsNew York (State)New York. | New York (N.Y.)Emigration and immigration.
Classification: LCC F128.9.C27 F87 2021 | DDC 305.896/97290747dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020055722
Cover illustrations: Banana chips iStock.com/santhosh_varghese; Manhattan Bridge iStock.com/Moussa81.
This is dedicated to Eugenia and Omar,
and to my community:
aqu y all
Contents
Figure and Table
FIGURE
TABLE
Acknowledgments
The research contained in this book was supported by the New York University Provosts Postdoctoral Fellowship Program, the Professional Staff CongressCity University of New York (PSC-CUNY) Research Award Program, the CUNY Diversity Projects Development Fund, the CUNY Faculty Fellowship Publication Program, the Claire and Leonard Tow Faculty Research Travel Fellowship, the CUNY Mellon Faculty Diversity Career Enhancement Initiative, and the Center for Puerto Rican Studies at CUNY Hunter College.
My gratitude goes out to mentors, colleagues, and friends who provided advice, encouragement, and feedback in this process, pushing me to dig deeper while making me a better scholar in the process. I am lucky to have been able to workshop these pages with an amazing group of mentors, whose scholarship and ongoing feedback were instrumental to the analysis contained within. In this regard, I want to thank Jorge Duany, Cruz Miguel Ortz Cuadra, Krishnendu Ray, and Alyshia Glvez. This book also benefited from a multidisciplinary community of scholars and friends who provided community connections, feedback, or simply much needed fresh eyes for the writing. These individuals include (in first-name alphabetical order) Elisa Gonzlez, Eris Garriga, Judith Anderson, Kara Schlichting, Lourdes Castro Mortillaro, Margaret Handley, Margrethe Horlyck-Romanovsky, Natasha Wilson, and Sophia Domokos. I must also acknowledge the assistance provided by Brooklyn College students Kevin Guerrero, Elina Banks, Leah Galitzdorfer and Tara Frank, who took the time to assist in this work, including via data collection or other research activities.
My motivation to write this book was born out of interactions in interdisciplinary spaces, particularly, the Association for the Study of Food and Society, but also due to the encouragement received from Arlene Dvila and Marion Nestle, who pushed me to disseminate my research beyond the scientific journals more commonly used in my home discipline of nutrition and public health. I am also deeply thankful to the University of North Carolina Press, the anonymous reviewers, and, specifically, Elaine Maisner for her enthusiasm and time, helping me to find and strengthen my voice in these pages.
Most importantly, this book would not have been possible without the caribeos who gifted their time and shared their life and food experiences with me, over many meals in the city. Their voices are at the center of this work, and I will be forever thankful for their openness and interest in this project. Nor would I have been able to undertake this long journey without the support of my family, in many ways inspiring the work presented in this book. I want to thank my mother, Eugenia Victoria Rivera, who has been an important part of the somewhat personal story intermingled throughout the book and responsible for the person I am today. I am thankful for my family, including my sister, Jessica; my aunts, Elby and Evelyn; my uncle and godfather, Euldaldo; my stepfather, Angel, and my mother-in-law, Norma, for their encouragement and their indulging me in ongoing discussions about food and this project throughout the years. Finally, these pages would not have come into existence without the love, care, and intellectual contributions of my better half, Omar A. Dauhajre, whose knowledge about our communitys history and culture has been essential in inspiring and moving this work forward.
Gracias.
Caribeos at the Table
INTRODUCTION
When Motion Turns Foods into Comidas
My favorite food as a child was macaroni and cheesethe one that comes packaged in a blue box with bright orange powdered cheese. The dish first came onto the market in 1937, during the Great Depression, as an economical alternative for families in the United States, eventually evolving into a childhood favorite for many generations to follow. While such a memory may convey an image of a childhood spent in the United States, my love for this highly processed dish was not developed at a post-Depression U.S. kitchen table. I enjoyed the dish as a child in Puerto Rico, preferring it over many traditional meals.
I was a picky eater, raised in San Juan, the capital of Puerto Rico. My pickiness was especially challenging when visiting family, where Sunday lunches might have included foods like morcilla (blood sausage), mondongo (tripe soup), gandinga (pork liver, kidney, and heart stew), guineitos en escabeche (marinated bananas), or cabro (goat), among many other Puerto Rican traditional favoritesall of which I vehemently refused to eat. My mother struggled, gradually finding the solution in the boxed (and easily transportable) macaroni and cheese. The macaroni and cheese was easy to carry and super easy to make, she recalled, and since it had milk and cheese, I thought it was also nutritious. The most important thing is that you liked it, and I felt relaxed because you had eaten. My mother was not alone in this perspective. Food marketing efforts sold this quick meal as both nutritious and convenienta dream for working mothers like mine.
Growing up in Puerto Rico, I was also exposed to food marketing. Food advertisements were conveniently intertwined with cartoons on weekend mornings, with U.S. brands, like Kraft, making their way to our kitchen and my plate. Aside from macaroni and cheese, I recall eating brightly colored cereal in the mornings and drinking juices made from powdered mixes, accustoming my palate to these artificial, ultra-sweet flavors. My eating habits and preference for these ultra-processed foods were the result of the urban food environment I grew up in. We had a Pueblo supermarket within walking distance of our home. A quick drive would take us to the nearest fast-food chains, grouped in fast-food plazas with shared parking and individual drive-throughs. I ate a mix of simple home-cooked dishes and Americanized foods. My mother enjoyed cooking, providing us with home-cooked meals such as steak with mashed potatoes, pork chops with rice and beans, and
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