Welcome to New York
Produced by the Works Progress Administrations Federal Writers Project in the late 1930s, the WPA Guide to New York City cites the problem of keeping pace, in print, with a dynamic metropolis that overnight replaces a century-old institution with a new triumph in modernity. Even in the depths of the Great Depression, there were 40 to 50 legitimate theatres in Manhattan patronised yearly by about 8,500,000; something like 300 nightclubs in more or less continuous operation; and 326 hotels, 29 museums and 73 art galleries.
We feel their pain, and then some. Those figures have increased significantly over the past 70-odd years; now that fashions play out in fast-forward, keeping pace is a positively Olympian challenge. The ersatz speakeasy that thrilled a few months back? Eclipsed by half a dozen others, each with a more elaborate concealed entrance than the last. The sizzling-hot restaurant with an impenetrable reservations policy? The crowds moved on. Even the cityscape itself is in flux, as Mayor Bloomberg forges ahead with his plans for improved public spaces and work begins on filling the gaping chasm in lower Manhattan.
Of course, New Yorks unpredictability generates its electricity. On any given day, you might pass a movie shoot or witness an equally compelling civilian drama (New Yorkers are rarely shy about voicing their opinions), get wind of a word-of-mouth warehouse bash or discover a time-warp diner. Every week, a new line-up of events fills the citys calendar, from Broadway premires to mango-eating parties in Brooklyn performance spaces.
For all the changes, perhaps more remarkable than the disparities between the WPAs guide and ours are the similarities in the descriptions of the city and its key attractions. In 21st-century New York, businessmen still get shoe-shines while enthroned in chesterfield armchairs at Grand Central before heading downstairs to slurp martinis in the Oyster Bar. Children still float toy sailboats on the small pond in Central Park, much as their great-grandfathers did. Lower East Siders and Upper West Siders still buy smoked salmon where their ancestors shopped a century ago. Ultimately, for those of us who relish life in this mercurial metropolis, keeping up with whats new while celebrating whats constant might be hard work, but its very much a labour of love. Lisa Ritchie, Editor
New York in Brief
IN CONTEXT
To open the book, this series of features tells the citys fascinating back story, covering everything from the immigrant influx that helped create its modern identity to the evolution of its iconic skyscrapers. We also look at the legacy of controversial mayor Michael Bloomberg, before going on to profile other key figures whove made their mark on the metropolis.
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SIGHTS
As well as in-depth insights into the citys best-known attractions the Statue of Liberty and the Metropolitan Museum of Art, to name a couple the Sights section illuminates the shifting character of local neighbourhoods. Heres where youll find pointers about the latest art districts and fashionable areas, underrated small museums and less celebrated architectural highlights.
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CONSUME
One of the most exciting eating and drinking playgrounds is also among the most changeable, but that doesnt mean you should neglect old favourites. Weve combined the best of the recent openings with trusty classics and wallet-friendly pit stops, all reviewed by critics from Time Out New York magazine. Insider guides to shops, bars and hotels round out this section.
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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
Beyond the razzle-dazzle of Broadway, this culture capital is also home to top-notch repertory theatre and fearless fringe companies. The underground club scene may have shrunk, but live music still thrives and the city holds a prominent place in rock and jazz history. Also in this section, youll find details of everything from literary salons to gay nightclubs, childrens museums to sports stadiums.
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ESCAPES & EXCURSIONS
If you need respite from the non-stop activity that defines New York City, or if you simply want to explore further afield, youre in luck. Whether you crave culture in a country setting, bracing wilderness walks, a beach day, or the retro glamour and gaming tables of Atlantic City, there are many worthwhile destinations within easy reach of the city.
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New York in 48 Hours
DAY 1: DOWNTOWN HISTORY & HOT SPOTS
8AM Start your New York odyssey Downtown, where Manhattan began and where millions of immigrants embarked on a new life. Get an organic caffeine jolt at Jacks Stir Brew Coffee , then stroll down to Pier 17 for great views of the harbour and the Brooklyn Bridge. Head further south if you want to hop on the free Staten Island Ferry for classic Manhattan panoramas.
11AM To get a sense of how many New Yorkers ancestors lived, take the subway to Delancey Street for a tour of one of the reconstructed immigrants apartments at the Lower East Side Tenement Museum . For a more literal taste of the old neighbourhood, order a pastrami on rye at the classic Katzs Delicatessen , or take a detour into Chinatown for superior dim sum at Dim Sum Go Go .
3PM The Lower East Side has changed considerably since its 19th-century squalour. Not only is it bursting at the seams with idiosyncratic shops boutique-cum-bar the Dressing Room , gothic-tinged clothier Thecast and new-wave hatters Victor Osborne (see Hat Tricks ) and Still Life (see Hat Tricks ) but its also now a booming art district. Once youve checked out the New Museum of Contemporary Art , gallery-hop the art spaces in the vicinity, especially on Chrystie, Orchard and Rivington Streets (for highlights, see ). When youve worked up an early-evening thirst, sleuth out one of the many speakeasy-style bars: the Back Room or PDT .
8PM At this juncture, you can either stay on the island or exit to Brooklyn. Youll take Manhattan? If youve managed to secure a table, head west for Keith McNallys latest hotspot, the Minetta Tavern , and a musical pot-pourri at eclectic (Le) Poisson Rouge . Alternatively, cross the East River for what many consider to be New Yorks best steakhouse, Williamsburgs Peter Luger , before bar-crawling across to overlooked indie-music gem Petes Candy Store .