Robert Cooper - Bhutan

T HE HIMALAYAS ARE OFTEN CALLED THE ROOF OF THE World. They are the tallest mountains on the planet, with more than 100 of their peaks rising to 24,000 feet (7,300 meters) above sea level. The range is home to the famed Mount Everest, and its peaks pass through India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, China, Nepal, and Bhutan.

Bhutan, a tiny country that holds tightly to its traditional Buddhist culture, is nestled between India and Tibet, which is an autonomous region of China. It is officially known as the Kingdom of Bhutan. Bhutan is ruggedly mountainous, and with the eastern edge of the Great Himalayas dominating its northern region, the country is known for its mountain treks, cliffside monasteries, and snowcapped peaks. Colorful prayer flags wind their way through breezy gorges and ancient alleyways. The magical and mystical personality of Bhutan can be felt from the mountaintops to the deepest valleys, but hikers are forbidden from climbing the highest peaks, where it is said that spirits dwell and the yeti walks. The nation delivers a shared sense of traditional culture and identity that can be witnessed every day, in every corner of the kingdom.

COMING HOME TO BHUTAN

The Kingdom of Bhutan is small and landlocked, measuring just 14,824 square miles (38,394 square kilometers), slightly larger than the state of Maryland. About 70 percent of the land is forested, and those trees are protected in the countrys constitution, which mandates at least 60 percent of Bhutan remain under forest cover. Another 7 percent of the land is pressed beneath frozen glaciers and glacial lakes. Between its subtropical forests, rushing rivers, and grassy highlands, a diverse array of flora and fauna call Bhutans rural landscape home.

Plenty of people call Bhutan home too. With a population of 766,397 as of 2018, Bhutan has just a few thousand more residents than Seattle, Washington. Its capital city, Thimphu, is a bustling hub of markets, homes, gardens, and temples. The city houses the countrys largest market, Thimphu Weekend Market, where traders from near and far meet on the western bank of the Wong River to sell produce, traditional crafts, and other goods within the twisting maze of stalls.

Bhutan is home to more than 3,000 lakes and several large, untamed rivers.

Warm voices and delicious smells are carried up the hillsides near the market. In their free time, Bhutanese residents enjoy datse (archery) and khuru (lawn darts), as well as traditional arts and crafts like papermaking and weaving. They visit temples and perform elaborate dances at seasonal festivals. They greet each other in traditional Dzongkha, saying Kuzu zangpo la, or Hello. The people of Bhutan, with their rich cultural framework and long history, continue to work hard and live well. Their country is steeped in tradition yet open to change.

In 1974, the first year it was open to tourists, 287 foreigners visited Bhutan. In 2018, 274,097 tourists traveled to the kingdom.

TRADITION AND CHANGE

Visitors to Thimphu and other Bhutanese cities and towns may notice one unusual fact. Bhutan has no traffic lights. The lack of traffic technology isnt so surprising if you consider the countrys history. Until the 1960s, the Kingdom of Bhutan existed in self-imposed isolation, with no national currency, telephones, schools, hospitals, postal service, or tourists. Residents have been incredibly cautious about introducing television, the internet, and tourism to the country, though the decades have brought a national health-care system and public education. When the first democratic elections were held in 2007 and 2008, Bhutanese citizens stood in long lines at the polls. Today, the electorate remains politically engaged, and in the 2018 election, a brand-new political party emerged victorious. Over the last 60 years, much has changed in Bhutan, and much has stayed the same.

What has remained? The majority-Buddhist country has retained its long history of monasteries, temples, and Buddhist religious and cultural traditions. Local snacks like jellied cow skin and dried yak cheese can still be found at the many markets across the country, and one can still watch horse races and battle reenactments at the always-popular festivals. Bhutan has long been one of the least technologically developed countries in the world, and that has not changed much, even with the advent of hydroelectricity, its biggest export. While many of todays residents own cell phones and there are more than 75,000 registered vehicles on the countrys young roads, the Last Great Himalayan Kingdom is still deeply rooted in its traditions.