Fashion Cultures Revisited
Following on from the ground-breaking collection Fashion Cultures, this second anthology, Fashion Cultures Revisited, contains 26 newly commissioned chapters exploring fashion culture from the start of the new millennium to the present day. The book is divided into six parts, each discussing different aspects of fashion culture:
Shopping, spaces and globalisation
Changing imagery, changing media
Altered landscapes, new modes of production
Icons and their legacies
Contestation, compliance, feminisms
Making masculinities.
Fashion Cultures Revisited explores every facet of contemporary fashion culture and the associated spheres of photography, magazines and television, and shopping. Consequently it is an ideal companion for those interested in fashion studies, cultural studies, art, film, fashion history, sociology and gender studies.
Stella Bruzzi is Professor of Film and Television Studies, University of Warwick and Fellow of the British Academy. Her publications include: Undressing Cinema: Clothing and Identity in the Movies (1997), New Documentary (2000 and 2006), Bringing Up Daddy: Fatherhood and Masculinity in Post-war Hollywood (2005) and Mens Cinema: Masculinity and Mise-en-scne in Hollywood (2013). She is currently writing Approximation: Documentary History and the Staging of Reality, the culmination of a Leverhulme Major Research Fellowship, due to be published by Routledge in 2015.
Pamela Church Gibson is Reader in Cultural and Historical Studies at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. She is Principal Editor of the journal Film, Fashion and Consumption and has published widely on film, fashion and gender. Her publications include The Oxford Guide to Film Studies (1998), More Dirty Looks: Gender, Power, Pornography (2004) and Fashion and Celebrity Culture (2012). In 2012 she helped to found the European Popular Culture Association and was its first President. Her forthcoming project will examine the history of the fashion documentary.
Fashion Cultures Revisited
Theories, explorations and analysis
Edited by
Stella Bruzzi and
Pamela Church Gibson
First published as Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations and Analysis 2000
This edition published as Fashion Cultures Revisited 2013
by Routledge
2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon, OX14 4RN
and by Routledge
711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017
Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business
2000, 2013 Stella Bruzzi and Pamela Church Gibson for selection and editorial matter; individual contributions the contributors
The right of Stella Bruzzi and Pamela Church Gibson to be identified as author of this work has been asserted in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers.
Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
Fashion cultures revisited: theories, explorations and analysis/[edited by] Stella Bruzzi, Pamela Church Gibson. Second edition.
pages cm
1. Fashion Social aspects. 2. Mass media Social aspects. I. Bruzzi, Stella, 1962 II. Gibson, Pamela Church.
GT525.F37 2013
391dc23
2013020815
ISBN: 978-0-415-68005-9 (hbk)
ISBN: 978-0-415-68006-6 (pbk)
ISBN: 978-0-203-13054-4 (ebk)
Typeset in Perpetua and Bell Gothic
by Florence Production Ltd, Stoodleigh, Devon, UK
To our mothers
Zara Bruzzi (19352000)
and Josephine Church
Contents
Stella Bruzzi and Pamela Church Gibson
1 David Gilbert
2 Silvano Mendes and Nick Rees-Roberts
3 Clare M. Wilkinson-Weber
4 Armida de la Garza and Peng Ding
5 Sally Gray
6 Caroline Evans
FOREWORD BY CAROLINE EVANS
7 Gary Needham
8 Agns Rocamora
9 Monica Titton
10 Christopher Breward and Judith Clark
11 Alistair ONeill
12 Elliott Smedley
FOREWORD BY PAMELA CHURCH GIBSON
13 Rachel Lifter
14 Adam Briggs
15 Louise Crewe
16 Peter McNeil and Giorgio Riello
17 Stella Bruzzi
18 Fiona Cox
19 Nathalie Khan
20 Hilary Radner and Natalie Smith
21 Meredith Jones
22 Lorraine Gamman
23 Reina Lewis
24 Pamela Church Gibson
25 Janice Miller
26 Stella Bruzzi
FOREWORD BY STELLA BRUZZI AND PAMELA CHURCH GIBSON
27 Vicki Karaminas
28 Claire Jenkins
29 Lauren Jade Thompson
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Christopher Breward is Professor of Cultural History at the University of Edinburgh, where he also holds the positions of Principal of Edinburgh College of Art and Vice Principal (Creative Arts). Prior to that he was Head of Research at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. He has published widely on the history and theory of fashion and its relationship to masculinities and urban cultures, including The Culture of Fashion (1995), The Hidden Consumer (1999), Fashion (2003) and Fashioning London (2004). He has most recently co-curated the V&As Olympic season exhibition British Design 19482012.
Adam Briggs is head of Cultural and Historical Studies at the London College of Fashion. Briggs career began in nursing but he then moved into radio journalism at the BBC. His academic career began as a senior lecturer in Communications at London Metropolitan University, before moving to the London College of Fashion. Briggs research interests primarily concern the relationship between the production and consumption of fashion. Alongside Paul Cobley, he co-edited The Media: An Introduction and has published academic articles on a range of fashion and marketing related issues.
Stella Bruzzi is Professor of Film and Television Studies, University of Warwick and Fellow of the British Academy. Her publications include: Undressing Cinema: Clothing and Identity in the Movies (1997), New Documentary (2000 and 2006), Bringing Up Daddy: Fatherhood and Masculinity in Post-war Hollywood (2005) and Mens Cinema: Masculinity and Mise-en-scne in Hollywood (2013). She is currently writing
