James Simpson - Creating Wine: The Emergence of a World Industry, 1840-1914

Creating Wine

Joel Mokyr, Editor

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Creating Wine: The Emergence of a World Industry, 18401914, by James Simpson

THE EMERGENCE OF

A WORLD INDUSTRY, 18401914

James Simpson

Copyright 2011 by Princeton University Press

Published by Princeton University Press, 41 William Street,
Princeton, New Jersey 08540

In the United Kingdom: Princeton University Press, 6 Oxford Street,
Woodstock, Oxfordshire OX20 1TW

press.princeton.edu

All Rights Reserved

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Simpson, James, 1953

Creating wine : the emergence of a world industry, 18401914 / James Simpson.

p. cm. (The Princeton economic history of the Western world)

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN 978-0-691-13603-5 (hardcover : alk. paper) 1. Wine industryEuropeHistory. 2. Wine and wine makingEuropeHistory. I. Title. II. Series: Princeton economic history of the Western world.

HD9385.A2S56 2011

338.8'8763209034dc22 2011014516

British Library Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available

This book has been composed in Garamond Pro

Printed on acid-free paper.

Printed in the United States of America

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

TO MARA JESS

Who gave me so many years of fun

IN THE OLD WORLD, WINE-MAKING IS AN ART; IN
AMERICA, IT IS AN INDUSTRY.

Andr Simon, 1919:105

Chapter 1
European Wine on the Eve of the Railways

Chapter 2
Phylloxera and the Development of Scientific Viti-Viniculture

Chapter 3
Surviving Success in the Midi: Growers, Merchants, and the State

Chapter 4
Selling to Reluctant Drinkers: The British Market and the International Wine Trade

Chapter 5
Bordeaux

Chapter 6
Champagne

Chapter 7
Port

Chapter 8
From Sherry to Spanish White

Chapter 9
Big Business and American Wine: The California Wine Association

Chapter 10
Australia: The Tyranny of Distance and Domestic Beer Drinkers

Chapter 11
Argentina: New World Producers and Old World Consumers

Appendix 1
Vineyards and Wineries

Appendix 2
Wine Prices

THIS BOOK would not have been written but for the help and encouragement I have enjoyed from a whole range of people and institutions. I owe a special debt to libraries and archives in many countries, including those of the Ateneo and Universidad Carlos III in Madrid; the British Library, Guildhall Library, and British Library of Political & Economic Science in London; the Archivo and Biblioteca Municipal in Jerez de la Frontera; the Bibliothque and the Archives Dpartementales de la Gironde in Bordeaux; the Bibliothque Municipal in pernay; the Biblioteca Nazionale, Firenze; the FAO Library, Rome; Special Collections at the University of California, Davis; the North Baker Research Library, San Francisco; the State Libraries of South Australia and Victoria in Australia; the Biblioteca Nacional in Buenos Aires; and the Biblioteca Municipal and the Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura in Mendoza. However, the institution that has been crucial to this undertaking is without doubt the Viticulture and Enology Collection at UC Davis. The chief librarian, Axel Borg, deserves special mention: not only did he respond to all my demands for help, but he was active in putting me in contact with other scholars and people who have been of invaluable help to this work.

My colleagues at the Universidad Carlos III de Madrid have shown tremendous patience and support, especially over the past two or three years. Juan Carmona, Eva Fernndez, and Joan Roses all took the time and trouble to read the manuscript at one moment or another and gave useful comments. Antonio Tena helped with the trade figures, and Leandro Prados de la Escosura provided sound advice and encouragement as always.

I am particularly grateful to Kym Anderson, Antonio Miguel Bernal, Luis Brtola, Hubert Bonin, Thomas Brennan, Jean-Michel Chevet, Carlos Coello, Luis Coria, Nicholas Faith, Valmai Hankel, Francisco Javier Fernndez Roca, Lina Glvez, Regina Grafe, Kolleen Guy, Colleen Haight, Pablo Lacoste, Pedro Lains, Ian McLean, Jos Miguel Martnez Carrin, Enrique Montas, Jos Mara OKean, Vicente Pinilla, Ramn Ramn, Blanca Snchez Alonso, Alessandro Stanziani, Steve Stein, Ron Weir, Nickolai Wenzel, and Bartolome Yun for their comments and help.