I had come to Yugoslavia to see what history meant in flesh and blood. I learned now that it might follow, because an empire passed, that a world full of strong men and women and rich food and heady wine might nevertheless seem like a shadow-show: that a man of every excellence might sit by a fire warming his hands in the vain hope of casting out a chill that lived not in the flesh.
Rebecca West, Black Lamb and Grey Falcon
I see pictures merging before my minds eye paths through the fields, river meadows, and mountain pastures mingling with images of destruction and oddly enough, it is the latter, not the now entirely unreal idylls of my early childhood, that make me feel rather as if I were coming home.
W. G. Sebald, On the Natural History of Destruction
The war in Zagreb began over a pack of cigarettes. There had been tensions beforehand, rumors of disturbances in other towns whispered above my head, but no explosions, nothing outright. Caught between the mountains, Zagreb sweltered in the summer, and most people abandoned the city for the coast during the hottest months. For as long as I could remember my family had vacationed with my godparents in a fishing village down south. But the Serbs had blocked the roads to the sea, at least thats what everyone was saying, so for the first time in my life we spent the summer inland.
Everything in the city was clammy, doorknobs and train handrails slick with other peoples sweat, the air heavy with the smell of yesterdays lunch. We took cold showers and walked around the flat in our underwear. Under the run of cool water I imagined my skin sizzling, steam rising from it. At night we lay atop our sheets, awaiting fitful sleep and fever dreams.
I turned ten in the last week of August, a celebration marked by a soggy cake and eclipsed by heat and disquiet. My parents invited their best friends my godparents, Petar and Marina over for dinner that weekend. The house where we usually stayed the summers belonged to Petars grandfather. My mothers break from teaching allowed us three months of vacation my father taking a train, meeting us later and the five of us would live there together on the cliffs along the Adriatic. Now that we were landlocked, the weekend dinners had become an anxious charade of normalcy.
Before Petar and Marina arrived I argued with my mother about putting on clothes.
Youre not an animal, Ana. Youll wear shorts to dinner or youll get nothing.
In Tiska I only wear my swimsuit bottoms anyway, I said, but my mother gave me a look and I got dressed.
That night the adults were engaging in their regular debate about exactly how long theyd known each other. They had been friends since before they were my age, they liked to say, no matter how old I was, and after the better part of an hour and a bottle of FeraVino theyd usually leave it at that. Petar and Marina had no children for me to play with, so I sat at the table holding my baby sister and listening to them vie for the farthest-reaching memory. Rahela was only eight months old and had never seen the coast, so I talked to her about the sea and our little boat, and she smiled when I made fish faces at her.
After we ate, Petar called me over and handed me a fistful of dinar. Lets see if you can beat your record, he said. It was a game between us I would run to the store to buy his cigarettes and he would time me. If I beat my record hed let me keep a few dinar from the change. I stuffed the money in the pocket of my cutoffs and took off down the nine flights of stairs.
I was sure I was about to set a new record. Id perfected my route, knew when to hug the curves around buildings and avoid the bumps in the side streets. I passed the house with the big orange BEWARE OF DOG sign (though no dog ever lived there that I could remember), jumped over a set of cement steps, and veered away from the dumpsters. Under a concrete archway that always smelled like piss, I held my breath and sped into the open city. I skirted the biggest pothole in front of the bar frequented by the daytime drinkers, slowing only slightly as I came upon the old man at his folding table hawking stolen chocolates. The newsstand kiosks red awning shifted in a rare breeze, signaling me like a finish line flag.
I put my elbows on the counter to get the clerks attention. Mr. Petrovi knew me and knew what I wanted, but today his smile looked more like a smirk.
Do you want Serbian cigarettes or Croatian ones? The way he stressed the two nationalities sounded unnatural. I had heard people on the news talking about Serbs and Croats this way because of the fighting in the villages, but no one had ever said anything to me directly. And I didnt want to buy the wrong kind of cigarettes.
Can I have the ones I always get, please?
Serbian or Croatian?
You know. The gold wrapper? I tried to see around his bulk, pointing to the shelf behind him. But he just laughed and waved to another customer, who sneered at me.
Hey! I tried to get the clerks attention back. He ignored me and made change for the next man in line. Id already lost the game, but I ran home as fast as I could anyway.
Mr. Petrovi wanted me to pick Serbian or Croatian cigarettes, I told Petar. I didnt know the answer and he wouldnt give me any. Im sorry.
My parents exchanged looks and Petar motioned for me to sit on his lap. He was tall taller than my father and flushed from the heat and wine. I climbed up on his wide thigh.
Its okay, he said, patting his stomach. Im too full for cigarettes anyway. I pulled the money from my shorts and relinquished it. He pressed a few dinar coins into my palm.
But I didnt win.
Yes, he said. But today thats not your fault.
That night my father came into the living room, where I slept, and sat down on the bench of the old upright piano. Wed inherited the piano from an aunt of Petars he and Marina didnt have space for it but we couldnt afford to have it tuned, and the first octave was so flat all the keys gave out the same tired tone. I heard my father pressing the foot pedals down in rhythm with the habitual nervous jiggle of his leg, but he didnt touch the keys. After a while he got up and came to sit on the armrest of the couch, where I lay. Soon we were going to buy a mattress.
Ana? You awake?
I tried to open my eyes, felt them flitting beneath the lids.
Awake, I managed.
Filter 160s. Theyre Croatian. So you know for next time.
Filter 160s, I said, committing it to memory.
My father kissed my forehead and said good night, but I felt him in the doorway moments later, his body blocking out the kitchen lamplight.
If Id been there, he whispered, but I wasnt sure he was talking to me so I stayed quiet and he didnt say anything else.
In the morning Miloevi was on TV giving a speech, and when I saw him, I laughed. He had big ears and a fat red face, jowls sagging like a dejected bulldog. His accent was nasal, nothing like the gentle, throaty voice of my father. Looking angry, he hammered his fist in rhythm with his speech. He was saying something about cleansing the land, repeating it over and over. I had no idea what he was talking about, but as he spoke and pounded he got redder and redder. So I laughed, and my mother poked her head around the corner to see what was so funny.
Turn that off. I felt my cheeks go hot, thinking she was mad at me for laughing at what must have been an important speech. But her face softened quickly. Go play, she said. Bet Lukas already beat you to the Trg.