Richie Donald - The Temples Of Kyoto

Acknowledgments

"this book has many sources. Most are indicated in the following bibliography. I owe much to these authors and their writings, though many of the ideasparticularly the more questionable onesare my own. I am also indebted to the eminent historian, Paul Varley, who kindly read oyer this manuscript for me and offered thoughtful and necessary suggestions. Of these I have gratefully availed myself. The mistakes remaining are all of my own doing.

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Enryaku-ji

On the heights of Mount Hiei, northeast of Kyoto, sits the ecclesiastical city of Enryaku-ji, headquarters of the Tendai sect and a center for religious meditation, political indoctrination, and warfare since the Heian period (784-1185). Most of the founders of the major Buddhist sects rising during the following several centuries studied there: Honen of the Jodo sect; Shinran of thejodo Shin sect; Eisai who introduced the Rinzai Zen sect to Japan; Dogen, who did the same for the Soto sect; Ippen of the Ji sect of Jodo; Kuya of his own Tendai sect; and Nichiren, who founded Nichiren Buddhismall were trained there.

Enryaku-ji grew as enormous as it was important. Though less than a twentieth of its former size, the temple is still one of the largest in Japan. It now faces Lake Biwa and not Kyoto, the old capital, but is still so big that only a third is readily visitablein winter the roads to the two other main sections are closed and no buses run.

Originally, however, it was but a collection of mountain huts. These followed only the irregularity of their terrain. In such sites as this the formal Chinese layout was impossibleso was any sustained balance or symmetry. Thus in their very appearance the temples of the new religion constituted a rebuke to the luxurious compounds down on the plain. This is something which the Tendai founder, Saicho (later known as Dengyo Daishi) reinforced in his deathbed message. He advised a "cheerful poverty" on his followers, and thus implied a criticism of those soft and luxurious Buddhists down below.

Saicho had early built his hut in the snows and forests of Mt. Hiei and in the silence and the cold observed his austerities. Said to have been but a youth of eighteen, he had climbed the mountain and sought the way, relying on what he had learned while in Nara.