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Kellogg Company. - A geography of digestion: biotechnology and the Kellogg cereal enterprise

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Kellogg Company. A geography of digestion: biotechnology and the Kellogg cereal enterprise
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A Geography of Digestion explores the legacy of the Kellogg Company, one of Americas most enduring and storied food enterprises. In the late nineteenth century, company founder John H. Kellogg was experimenting with state-of-the-art advances in nutritional and medical science at his Battle Creek Sanitarium. At the same time, he was involved in overhauling the form and function of the broader landscapes in which his health practice was situated. Innovations in food-manufacturing machinery, urban sewer infrastructure, and agricultural technology came together to forge an extensible geography of his patients bodies, changing the way Americans consumed and digested food. In this novel approach to the study of the Kellogg enterprise, Nicholas Bauch asks his readers to think geographically about the process of digesting food. Beginning with the stomach, Bauch moves outward from the sanitarium through the landscapes and technologies that materialized Kelloggs particular version of digestion. Far from a set of organs confined to the epidermal bounds of the body, the digestive system existed in other places. Moving from food-processing machines, to urban sewerage, to agricultural fields, A Geography of Digestion paints a grounded portrait of one of the most basic human processes of survival--the incorporation of food into our bodies--leading us to question where exactly our bodies are located--;Introduction : spatially extending the digestive system -- The Battle Creek Sanitarium : a place of health -- Scientific eating : Kelloggs philosophy of the modern stomach -- Flaked cereal : the moment of invention -- Extending the digestive system into the urban landscape -- The systematization of agriculture -- Breakfast cereal in the twentieth century -- Epilogue.

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A Geography of Digestion Darra Goldstein Editor A Geography of - photo 1
A Geography of Digestion

Darra Goldstein, Editor

A Geography of Digestion
BIOTECHNOLOGY AND THE KELLOGG CEREAL ENTERPRISE

Nicholas Bauch

Picture 2

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS

University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www.ucpress.edu.

University of California Press

Oakland, California

2017 by The Regents of the University of California

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Bauch, Nicholas, author.

Title: A geography of digestion : biotechnology and the Kellogg cereal enterprise / Nicholas Bauch.

Other titles: California studies in food and culture ; 62.

Description: Oakland, California : University of California Press, [2016] | Series: California studies in food and culture ; 62 | Includes bibliographical references and index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2016031590 (print) | LCCN 2016033511 (ebook) | ISBN 9780520285798 (cloth : alk. paper) | ISBN 9780520285804 (pbk. : alk. paper) | ISBN 9780520961180 (Epub)

Subjects: LCSH : Kellogg Company. | Battle Creek Sanitarium (Battle Creek, Mich.) | DigestionEnvironmental aspectsUnited States. | Breakfast cerealsUnited States. | Sanitary engineeringUnited StatesHistory. | Cereal products industryTechnological innovationsUnited States.

Classification: LCC HD 9056. U 6 K 4535 2016 (print) | LCC HD 9056. u6 (ebook) | DDC 338.7/6647560973dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016031590

Manufactured in the United States of America

25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

The publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous support of the Directors Circle of the University of California Press Foundation, whose members are:

Harriett & Richard Gold

Gary & Cary Hart

Robert J. Nelson & Monica C. Heredia

Marilyn Lee & Harvey Schneider

Thomas & Barbara Metcalf

Jerome & Ann Moss

Barbara Z. Otto

Margaret L. Pillsbury

Larry & Rosalie Vanderhoef

To Yi-Fu Tuan

Contents
Illustrations
FIGURES
TABLE
Acknowledgments

At its publication date, this project is eleven years old. I use the term project with intention, because while its current state is a book, the book itself feels like a shoot of an underground rhizome that has pierced the soil and made it to light. The underground rhizome is the ever-growing, twisting and turning phenomenon that we might call an intellectual journey, or maybe even a career. Like many scholars, feeding this rhizome from time to time I find myself using the online Oxford English Dictionary in search for inspiration, which is exactly what I was doing when I discovered an obsolete (Shakespearean, actually) usage of the term project: a mental conception, idea, or notion. In this way, A Geography of Digestion is a project in the sense that it began as a vision, something that I saw clearly in my mind and then spent a long time figuring out how to articulate. It is also a project in that it is ongoing, never fully complete, and open to conversation and growth; it may always feel notional.

I would like to thank the people directly involved in this particular shoot of the rhizome, that is, the making of the book. I respect and value the anonymous peer-review process, and this book would not be what it is without two extremely patient, thoughtful, and giving reviewers. It is an honor to have peers so carefully engage with ones core thoughts and styles of articulation. The editorial staff at the University of California Press remained committed and involved in the making of the book. Thank you to Darra Goldstein for inviting me to submit a rhizome shoot (my words) to be considered for inclusion in the California Studies in Food and Culture series. Many of the scholars I admire most in food and agriculture studies have contributed to this series over the past fifteen-plus years, and it is humbling to have this project find light here. At the presss offices it has been a pleasure to work directly with Stacy Eisenstark, Zuha Khan, Glynnis Koike, Bradley Depew, Tom Sullivan, and Dore Brown. Kate Marshall took the time to meet with me in person, shepherding, shaving, and refining the content to help transform it from an idea to a book. Thank you to Emily Park, who copyedited every character of the manuscript with profound consistency and astuteness. And thank you to Carol Roberts, who took the time to read both the surface and depth of the text while crafting the books index.

I was able to perform archival research throughout the state of Michigan thanks to the guidance of many librarians and keepers of history. From Michigan State University thanks go to Anita Ezzo, Cynthia Ghering, and Kathleen Weessies. From the University of Michigan, thank you to Karen Jania. In the town of Battle Creek itself, where all the local geographical knowledge exists, thanks especially to Garth Duff Stoltz, Andrew Michalowski, and George Livingston. Not all of the Kellogg manuscripts are in Michigan; many of them are carefully housed in Loma Linda, California, one of the present-day headquarters of the Seventh-day Adventist denomination. At Loma Linda University, thank you to Lori Curtis and Janice Little. Generous funding for carrying out this research was granted to me through travel and research fellowships from the American Association of Geographers Cultural Geography Specialty Group, the UCLA Darling Biomedical Library, and the University of Michigans Bentley Historical Library.

I wrote this bookor rather rewrote it based on my dissertation workwhile a post-doctoral researcher at Stanford University. Thanks go to Zephyr Frank, who, despite my simultaneously conducting another entirely different major project, encouraged me to keep writing A Geography of Digestion . Moving between projects over my years at the Center for Spatial and Textual Analysis worked well for me, as the ideas always seemed to stay fresher that way.

So much for the book project itself, with sincere apologies to all those left unnamed. What about the acknowledgments one makes to the rhizome, or the greater building of ones intellectual identity? Here I could thank hundreds if not thousands of people. My interest in food and agriculture studies began in the University of Wisconsin-Madisons geography department, which has a long tradition of research in nature-society relations. During my time as a graduate student at UCLA, eleven years ago, the people who initially helped get this project going include my main advisor, Michael Curry, who was always wise and patient in the evolution of the project; he remains someone I look up to with great admiration. Denis Cosgrove, along with many other students, taught me the power of landscape as an analytic tool. John Agnew helped frame the broader political significance of food and eating. And Norton Wise, in whose history of science seminar I discovered that John Kellogg cared about digestion, offered me an inroad to write and talk about the materiality of food consumption. During my first year at UCLA I had the opportunity to participate in a University of California intercampus exchange program, which brought me to UC Santa Cruz for one spring term. There I had the privilege to meet regularly with scholars in their food studies program, including Julie Guthman, Melanie DuPuis, Margaret Fitzsimmons, and Melissa Caldwell, all of whom were generous with their time despite busy teaching and research schedules. I greatly value all of these experiences.

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