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Toni Huber - The Holy Land Reborn: Pilgrimage and the Tibetan Reinvention of Buddhist India (Buddhism and Modernity series)

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Toni Huber The Holy Land Reborn: Pilgrimage and the Tibetan Reinvention of Buddhist India (Buddhism and Modernity series)
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The Dalai Lama has said that Tibetans consider themselves the child of Indian civilization and that India is the holy land from whose sources the Tibetans have built their own civilization. What explains this powerful allegiance to India? In The Holy Land Reborn? Toni Huber investigates how Tibetans have maintained a ritual relationship to India, particularly by way of pilgrimage, and what it means for them to consider India as their holy land. Focusing on the Tibetan creation and recreation of India as a destination, a landscape, and a kind of other, in both real and idealized terms, Huber explores how Tibetans have used the idea of India as a religious territory and a sacred geography in the development of their own religion and society. In a timely closing chapter, Huber also takes up the meaning of India for the Tibetans who live in exile in their Buddhist holy land.A major contribution to the study of Buddhism, The Holy Land Reborn describes changes in Tibetan constructs of India over the centuries, ultimately challenging largely static views of the sacred geography of Buddhism in India.

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the holy land rebor n buddhism and modernity A series edited by Donald S - photo 1

the holy land rebor n

buddhism and modernity A series edited by Donald S. Lopez Jr.

Critical Terms for the Study of Buddhism, edited by Donald S. Lopez Jr. (2005)

The Madmans Middle Way: Reflections on Reality of the Tibetan Monk Gendun Chopel, by Donald S. Lopez Jr. (2006)

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the holy land reborn

Pilgrimage & the Tibetan Reinvention of Buddhist India

toni huber

the university of chicago press chicago and london

Toni Huber is professor of Tibetan studies at the Institute for Asian and African Studies at Humboldt University, Berlin.

The University of Chicago Press, Chicago 60637 The University of Chicago Press, Ltd., London 2008 by The University of Chicago All rights reserved. Published 2008 Printed in the United States of America

17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 09 08 1 2 3 4 5

isbn-13: 978-0-226-35648-8 (cloth) isbn-10: 0-226-35648-5 (cloth)

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Huber, Toni, 1956 The holy land reborn : pilgrimage & the Tibetan reinvention of Buddhist India / Toni Huber.

p. cm. (Buddhism and modernity ) Includes bibliographical references and index . isbn-13: 978-0-226-35648-8 (cloth : alk. paper ) isbn-10: 0-226-35648-5 (cloth : alk. paper )

Buddhist pilgrims and pilgrimagesIndia. 2. Buddhist pilgrims and pilgrim agesChinaTibet. 3. Sacred spaceIndia. 4. Tibet (China)RelationsIndia.

. IndiaRelationsChinaTibet. I. Title. bq6460.h83 2008 294.34350954dc22

2007042732

Picture 2 The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of the American National Standard for Information SciencesCPermanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ansi z39.481992.

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for mona

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content s

List of Figures ix Acknowledgments xi Note on Transliteration xv

Introduction

Part One: Locating and Dislocating the Land of the Buddha 1 The Shifting Terrain of the Buddha 2 Buddhist Knowledge and Anachronism in Tibet 3 Journeying to the Centre of the World 4 Tantric Buddhist India and Its Tibetan Appropriation

Part Two: Reinventing the Holy Land in India 5 Nirvana in Assam 6 Return to the Centre of the World 7 The Allure of the Atsaras 8 The Precious Guru in the Punjab

Part Three: Modern Rebirths of the Holy Land 9 Archaeological and Discursive Rebirths of Buddhist India 10 Encountering the Modern Holy Land 11 Exile in the Land of the Buddha

vii

Notes Bibliography Index

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FIGURE S

The eight places of the Buddha
Tibetan Buddhist experience of India prior to 1300 CE

India according to Lama Shang

Early Tibetan pilgrimage to the eight places of the Buddha

The five holy places scheme

The twenty-four pt.ha in the Sam. vara-man. d. ala

The twenty-four pt.ha within the yogins body

Tantric sites of northwest India according to Tibetan pilgrims

Tibetan Devkot.a sites in South Asia and Tibet

Model of the Mahabodhi Temple, Narthang Monastery, Tibet, 1937

Tibetan Buddhist pilgrimage in northeast India

The temple of Madhab at Hajo, 2004

The Bura Hal, site of the Buddhas nirvana at Hajo, 2004

Flooded, sunken crypt of Gopeshwar Temple, Singri, 2004

Buddhist pilgrims test in Gopeshwar Temple, Singri, 2004

Hindu rites at Gopeshwar Temple, Singri, 2004

Ruined Mahabodhi Temple and Mahants compound, Bodh Gaya, 1871

Itinerary of Garshapa Sonam Rabgye in 1752

Eighteenth-century Tibetan pilgrimage and survival of Buddhism in India according to the Third Panchen Lama

Buddhist and Hindu images in the Bhot Mandir, ca. 1890

.

Bhot. Mahant Trilokh Chandra Giri, ca. 1928

Bhot. Bagan, Howrah, ca. 1928

Bhot Bagan, Howrah, 2005

.

ix

    1. Image of Tara alias Mahakal from Bhot Bagan, 2005
    2. .
  1. Nineteenth-century Tibetan pilgrimage in the Punjab
  2. Nalanda stupa site no. 3 prior to excavation, 191718

Nalanda stupa site no. 3 after excavation, 192829

Parklike setting of restored Mahabodhi Temple, Bodh Gaya, 1903

Dharmapala and Shaku Kozen, Bodh Gaya, 1891

Thirteenth Dalai Lama (centre, wearing spectacles) with Kaniska

.

reliquary, Indian Museum, Calcutta, 1910

Maha Bodhi Society pilgrims certificate presented to Frederick Oertel by Anagarika Dharmapala, 1904

Inaugural procession of Buddha relics at the Mulagandhakut. Vihara, Sarnath, 1931

Tibetan pilgrimage itineraries in India, 190545

Tibetan pilgrims impression of the Indian railway and foreigners, early twentieth century

Amdo Gendun Chophels map of Indian Buddhist sites

and the railway networ k .

Amdo Gendun Chophels sketch map of Rajagrha, 1939

  1. Tibetan sketch map of the holy mountain of Tsari Dakpa Shelri, early twentieth century
  2. Fourteenth Dalai Lama holding Buddha relics with a Maha Bodhi Society monk (standing left of Dalai Lama with glasses), Chumbi Valley, 1951

Fourteenth Dalai Lamas first ritual at Bodh Gaya, 1956

Fourteenth Dalai Lama presenting Xuanzangs relics to Jawaharlal Nehru, Nalanda, 1956

Tibetan refugee settlements in South Asia

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acknowledgments

The Holy Land Reborn Pilgrimage and the Tibetan Reinvention of Buddhist India Buddhism and Modernity series - image 3 his book had a long, slow gestation, and its birth owes a lot to many different people. While I have more recently envisaged it as a com panion volume to my earlier monograph on Tibetan religion, The Cult of Pure Crystal Mountain (New York, Oxford University Press, 1999), which also deals with place creation and the ritual culture of pilgrimage in Ti betan societies, this has admittedly been something of an afterthought. The roots of The Holy Land Reborn actually reach all the way back to my undergraduate days. I have fond memories of studying India with Jim Wil son, whose enthusiasm and generosity as a teacher helped determine my long-term fascination with some of the dimensions of religion in India that are treated here. Nor have I forgotten how, during my early days as Jims student, I serendipitously came across a book by August Hermann Francke (18701930) in the university library while daydreaming of Himalayan ad ventures instead of studying. With fascination, I read and copied Franckes notes on some of the reinvented Tibetan pilgrimage sites to which I have now devoted a chapter in this book. Francke was the fi rst professor to be awarded a chair of Tibetan studies at the Humboldt University in Berlin, and as fate would have it that is the post I now hold today. To my other early teacher, and friend, Paul Harrison, I will always be grateful for the inspiring glimpse into the higher levels of the academic study of Buddhism which he gave me. Although I chose to follow a different path, the interest in Buddhist studies which Paul once kindled seems to have fi nally found some expression in this book. I hope it gives him more satisfaction than regret! I thank Paul as well for introducing me to Gregory Schopen, and also to his scholarship, which as a nonphilologist I nevertheless came to appreciate for its counterintuitive approach.

xi

acknowledgments

During a long period of research and writing, I benefited much from the kind and generous assistance, constructive criticism, and inspiration of various friends, colleagues, and informants. I thank them all here sim ply in alphabetical order, with apologies to those I may have inadvertently overlooked. First, I would like to offer my sincere gratitude to my many Ti betan informants living in South Asia, Tibet, and Europe over the past few decades. Thanks also to John Ardussi, Anthony Aris, Michael Aris, Dandi Swamin Prakash Ashram, Christopher Atwood, Michael Balk, Heinz Bechert, Duncan Campbell, Di Cousens, Soumitra Das, Simon Digby, Den nis Dutton, Isrun Engelhardt, Elizabeth English, Bernard Faure, Gunther Gronbold, Sudeshna Guha, Tsering Gyalbo, Peter Hansen, Paul Harrison, Jens-Uwe Hartmann, Hanna Havnevik, Jeffrey Hopkins, David Jackson, Matthew Kapstein, Per Kvrne, Donald Lopez Jr., Alexander Macdonald, Alex McKay, Dan Martin, Irmgard Mengele, Jon Meisler, Paul Morris, Vishvajit Pandya, Jampa Panglung, Heinz Rather, Bo Sax, Gene Smith, Poul Pedersen, Burkhard Quessel, Nicholas and Deki Rhodes, Nyaken Riba, Aditi Nath Sarkar, Gregory Schopen, Mona Schrempf, Peter Schwieger, Lobsang Shastri, Jan Sobisch, Elliot Sperling, Heather Stoddard, Axel Strom, Kate Teltscher, David Templeman and family, Ngawang Thogme, Alan Trevithick, Tashi Tsering, Helga Uebach, Steven Weinberger, David White, and Monika Zin.

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