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Adnan Nasir (editor) - Nanotechnology in Dermatology

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Book:
Nanotechnology in Dermatology
Author:
Adnan Nasir editor / Adam Friedman editor / Steven Wang editor
Publisher:
Springer Nature
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Books / Romance novel
Year:
2012
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Nanotechnology in Dermatology is the first book of its kind to address all of the important and rapidly growing aspects of nanotechnology as it relates to dermatology. In the last few years there has been an explosion in research and development for products and devices related to nanotechnology, including numerous applications for consumers, physicians, patients, and industry. Applications are underway in medicine and dermatology for the early detection, diagnosis, and targeted therapy of disease, and nanodesigned materials and devices are expected to be faster, smaller, more powerful, more efficient, and more versatile than their traditional counterparts.

Written by experts working in this exciting field, Nanotechnology in Dermatology specifically addresses nanotechnology in consumer skin care products, in the diagnosis of skin disease, in the treatment of skin disease, and the overall safety of nanotechnology. The book also discusses future trends of this ever-growing and changing field, providing dermatologists, pharmaceutical companies, and consumer cosmetics companies with a clear understanding of the advantages and challenges of nanotechnology today.

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Adnan Nasir , Adam Friedman and Steven Wang (eds.) Nanotechnology in Dermatology 2013 10.1007/978-1-4614-5034-4_1 Springer Science+Business Media, LLC 2013

1. Formulating with Nanotechnology in Skin Care Opportunities and Challenges

Julian P. Hewitt 1

(1)

JPH SunCare Technologies Ltd., 7 Patterdale Close, Durham, DH1 2UF, England, UK

Julian P. Hewitt

Email:

Abstract

Nanoparticles and other nanotechnologies are finding application in many areas of skin care. In most cases, the nano-ingredients are present as functional ingredients, conferring a particular benefit to the skin or, in the case of inorganic sunscreens, protecting the skin against external damaging agents such as UV light. Such ingredients often require specific formulating techniques to ensure that they remain stable and effective until, and after, they are delivered to the skin. However, there are also cases in which nanotechnologies can assist the formulator to achieve the desired properties of their formulation, to protect functional ingredients, or deliver them to the correct site in the skin.

1.1 Introduction

This chapter, therefore, deals with two distinct aspects of formulating with nanotechnologies in skin care:

Opportunities: nanotechnologies that can assist the formulator to solve formulating problems
Challenges: formulating approaches to incorporating nanoparticles in a finished formulation, where these are desired for a particular functional benefit

1.2 The Challenges of Cosmetic Formulation

Modern skin care emulsions are complex systems that present a number of different technical challenges, all of which the formulator must address in order to create an effective and appealing product.

1.2.1 Stability

The majority of skin care products are formulated as emulsions, which are thermodynamically unstable systems, and so achieving emulsion stability is always a challenge for the cosmetic formulator. Most products are either oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions; O/W systems tend to be the most common and most popular, for several reasons:

Skin feel: with water as the external phase of the emulsion, there is an immediate feeling of hydration, and O/W emulsions feel less oily and less greasy than W/O systems.
Cost: water typically accounts for more than 70% of a cosmetic O/W emulsion, and production processes are usually less costly than for W/O systems.
Ease of manufacture: production processes tend to be shorter and use less energy.
Flexibility and ease of formulation: there is a vast range of emulsifiers, emulsion stabilisers and rheological additives available for O/W emulsions, giving the formulator plenty of options for achieving a stable, effective product with the desired skin feel.

However, W/O emulsions also have advantages:

Moisturisation: W/O emulsions give a more occlusive film on skin and are therefore more effective at preventing transepidermal water loss. Also, as the water in a W/O emulsion is contained within the internal phase, it is held in close proximity to the skin, giving a longer-lasting moisturising effect than is achieved with an O/W emulsion.
Efficacy: in certain applications, for example in sun care, W/O emulsions show greater efficacy for a given concentration of active ingredient.
Water resistance: with oil as the external phase, W/O emulsions are inherently more water-resistant than O/W, which is an advantage in, for example, make-up and sun care applications.

Achieving a stable emulsion is a greater challenge in W/O systems than in O/W, because the internal phase content is typically much higher in a W/O emulsion. This makes for a more crowded system, with the emulsion droplets more numerous and closer together, so the droplets are more likely to flocculate and/or coalesce. Stabilisation systems in W/O emulsions therefore need to be very effective in protecting the droplet interface and preventing coalescence.

1.2.2 Aesthetic Properties

The importance of the appearance, odour and skin feel of a skin care product cannot be overstated; no matter how effective a product is, if it is not pleasant to use then consumers will not buy it. Unfortunately, in many cases, ingredients and formulation systems that are beneficial for either stability or efficacy have an adverse effect on the aesthetic properties of an emulsion. For example, thickeners are usually needed to aid stability, to provide the desired viscosity for the intended application and to optimise product efficacy. But many hydrocolloids used in O/W emulsions can make the product feel sticky, while other thickening ingredients such as waxes can make the product feel heavy and difficult to apply. Also, in W/O emulsions, to meet the stability challenge as outlined above can require relatively high contents of emulsifier, which can make the product feel greasy on skin.

1.2.3 Efficacy

The product must also do the job it is intended for. The ideal moisturiser, for example, should give an immediate sensation of hydration or moisturisation when it is first applied, and then maintain a prolonged moisturising effect. O/W emulsions achieve the first requirement but are not ideal for long-lived moisturisation; W/O emulsions are better for this but are less effective in terms of immediate hydration.

If a product contains active ingredients for specific effects, e.g. anti-ageing, these must be delivered at the right time and to the correct site in the skin in order to be effective. The science of skin delivery is a complex field and many different aspects of the formulation need to be considered []. In addition, some active ingredients are incompatible with other necessary formulation components, or can be degraded by external influences such as UV light, so an additional challenge for the formulator is to protect such ingredients in the product itself, so that the actives can be delivered intact when the product is applied.

1.3 Nanotechnologies as Formulating Aids

Nanocarrier systems, such as nanoemulsions or nanoliposomes, are finding increasing application as a means of incorporating, stabilising or delivering active ingredients in personal care or pharmaceutical preparations. Such systems are sometimes termed labile nanoparticles as they are formed in situ and are designed to eventually break down (and thus release the encapsulated active), either during or after application of the product. These nanocarrier systems are covered elsewhere in this book and so will not be discussed in this chapter, which rather will focus on the formulation benefits of persistent nanoparticles, i.e. materials that are incorporated in a particulate form and remain in this form throughout the formulation and application of the product.

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