Destination Florida
Walt Disney was right: Florida is a place that captures the imagination. The landscape is exaggerated and invites exaggeration. Spanish explorers saw manatees and imagined they were mermaids; Ponce de Len saw a crystal-clear spring and imagined it was a fountain of youth. Developers saw swamps and sold them as paradise, but if they are, theres plenty of the devil in them. In its history, Florida has inspired as much madness and murder as it has fantasies of a magical kingdom where dreams really do come true.
If youre coming to Florida for a simple beach vacation, this might all sound beside the point. With a looping coil of coastline containing over 650 miles of sandy beaches, Florida knows what side its bread is buttered on. Indeed, the state is organized chiefly to satisfy the singular human desire for a clean room, a cold beer, a quiet beach with gently lapping waves, a palm tree and a rose-tinged sunset.
FAST FACTS
Capital city: Tallahassee
Population: 18.3 million
Distance from Key West to Cuba: 90 miles
Number of visitors to Walt Disney World annually: 47 million
Number of alligators in Florida: 1.25 million
Number of federally listed endangered species: 57
Number of islands (over 10 acres): 4500
Number of golf courses: 1250
Average winter temperature in South Florida: 68.5F
Highest elevation: 345ft
Miles of beaches: 663
Number of hotel rooms: 370,000
Thats the postcard, anyway. If the actual scene doesnt always materialize if, say, another condo tower now blocks said view, or the beach is too crowded with others seeking the same reverie it still happens often and regularly enough to keep people coming. And that is very much the point, from Floridas perspective.
And thats OK. The vision of a seaside paradise can falter, as can the mechanical magic of Floridas phantasmagorical theme parks, and the land the watery, swampy, humid, shimmering, creature-filled peninsula remains. In the end, its this unstable, ever-shifting landscape that never fails to overwhelm and that works its way indelibly inside, never to be forgotten. And it does so both in that grand, uplifting, aching-beauty-of-nature kind of way, and in that fetid, surreal, alligators-in-the-swamp-snakes-in-the-trees-get-me-outta-here kind of way.
Florida, more civilized than it once was, is still seductively and unnervingly fluid. Miami continues to be washed with wave after wave of Latin immigrants, and the city vibrates with energy and culture and change. The Deep South of northern Florida lovingly tends its memories, even as old ways fade or are simply paved over. And just off the coast, another hurricane is always brewing.
So come for the beaches and Mickey Mouse, come for the people and the Everglades, come for the nightlife and the kayaking and the manatees and the gators. But make sure to come. Because Florida is always stranger than you imagine, and it never holds still.
Getting Started
Florida makes its living from tourism, so its always eager and ready to welcome you. Getting here, renting a car, finding a hotel, a meal, a drink, the beach Florida makes these details easy, and relatively affordable, so that you can focus solely on having a great time, which ideally inspires you to return again and again.
So far, anyway, that formula has worked pretty well. And it means that you, the visitor, need only decide what you want to do and when you want to do it. The only hitch is that Florida, being so attractive and welcoming and popular, can also get insanely crowded. Advance planning is essential, because like the Magic Kingdom, Florida is all about crowd management: savvy travelers know the best rides fill up fast, and beating those inevitable, growing, snaking lines sometimes requires perfect timing.
WHEN TO GO
Unfortunately (or not), Florida has no single perfect season. The best time to go depends entirely on your agenda.
Always consider the weather first. Similar to the tropics, Florida has essentially two seasons: wet and dry. Winter, Floridas dry season, is from roughly November through April. Temperatures are lower, theres less humidity and rain, and its the ideal time to hike, canoe and explore nature, particularly in South Florida. Snowbirds (northerners who winter in Florida) love winter because sunny 70F days mean no snow, ever.
Summer is the wet season: from May to October, its hot, sticky and rainstorms deluge many an afternoon. This is also roughly hurricane season, which peaks in September (for more on hurricanes, ).
All this would seem to make winter the best time to come, and it often is; particularly in Miami and South Florida, winter is high season, bringing with it higher prices and more crowds. But in northern Florida, the ocean is a little too cold for swimming in winter, so the Panhandle, St Augustine and others boom in summer.
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Orlandos high season is year-round. Here, theme-park lines respond more to school vacations and holidays than to weather. Also, those who brave summers heat and mosquitoes often find that its dreaded rains can blow through quickly; duck inside for an hour, and its over before you know it.
Finally, wildlife keeps its own schedule: migrating birds, manatees, sea turtles, whales all come at different times, so if youre set on seeing a particular animal, find out when its visiting ( for more on parks and wildlife).
COSTS & MONEY
The rich and famous adore Florida, but you dont need be either to enjoy its sunny climes. In this guide, we emphasize the middle ground, while providing plenty of choices for travelers to splash out or conserve their pennies as they like.
How low can you go? If youre camping and making most of your own meals, you could spend under $50 a day. If youre two people staying in budget motels and eating out (even cheaply), budget $100 a day per person. Whether you rent a car is the real wild card; without one, your expenses plummet; with one, thats a base of at least $40 to $50 a day (depending on insurance and gas). However, unless youre staying in one spot, youll probably want a car, as public-transportation networks do not stretch to all locations in Florida.
DONT LEAVE HOME WITHOUT
- strong sunscreen, high-quality sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat
- a bathing suit
- binoculars for wildlife- and bird-watching
- a great road map
- your mp3 player loaded with great beach tunes
- leaving half of what you think youll need at home
- a spiffy black outfit if youre heading to Miami
- a copy of your passport, drivers license and 800 numbers for your credit cards
For comfortable midrange travel, budget $150 to $200 per person a day. Comfort is relative, but with this budget, expect to mix up a nicer B&B with a budget hotel and to balance days at expensive destinations (Miami and Orlando theme parks) with days at free ones (the beach and state parks). Going in a destinations high season also significantly affects your costs, particularly in beach-resort towns like Sanibel and Amelia Islands. And of course, if you spend all your time in Miamis art-deco hotels and nightclubs, or bounce from theme park to theme park, the sky is very nearly the limit.
One thing in the travelers favor is the intense competition for business in Florida, which generally keeps prices lower, and which inspires a blizzard of promotions, deals and discounts. If you plan ahead, check the web, call and ask, and are a little flexible, youll find numerous opportunities to trim your costs here and there.