AN EXPLORERS GUIDE
Mexicos Aztec and Maya Empires
AN EXPLORERS GUIDE
Mexicos Aztec and Maya Empires
Zain Deane
with photographs by the author
FIRST EDITION
The Countryman Press Woodstock, Vermont
Copyright 2011 by Zain Deane
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages.
Explorer's Guide Mexico's Aztec & Maya Empires
ISBN: 978-1-58157-881-2
Interior photographs by the author unless otherwise specified
Maps by Erin Greb Cartography, The Countryman Press
Composition by PerfecType, Nashville, TN
Published by The Countryman Press, P.O. Box 748, Woodstock, VT 05091
I dedicate this book to my father, who has been my strongest and proudest advocate, and to my mother, who has encouraged me from the beginning.
Youve made every page possible.
EXPLORE WITH US!
Mexico is a vast, incredibly diverse country that offers virtually every kind of vacation experience, from beach resorts along the coast to colonial Spanish towns to jungle treks. But for all its touristic richness, there is nothing quite like the majesty of Mexicos ancient ruins. There is an enigmatic power to them, an aura and mystique that can only be appreciated when standing at the foot one of their temples. They are the physical remains of cultures that once burst with vitality, mythology, creativity, and ingenuity.
In terms of geography, Mexicos ancient sites can be found predominantly in the central and southern parts of the country, although the north is home to the remains of an enigmatic city-state named Paquim. As such, our travels will canvass the country, which will provide the added advantage of seeing many sides of cultural, modern-day Mexico.
As far as the tourist is concerned, this geographic spread means two thingsor more accurately, two vacation options. First, you can follow this guide around Mexico, visiting a fascinating tapestry of pre-Columbian architecture and cultures; this would entail a lengthy and adventurous trip, and is certainly not what Id recommend if relaxing by the beach is your priority, or if time is limited. Your other option is to visit one part of Mexico and refer to this guide for what there is to see and do, with an obvious emphasis on pre-Hispanic heritage. While I focus on Tenochtitln in Mexico City, for example, I also provide plenty of information on lodging, dining, and attractions in the capital. Youll also find details on nearby sites such as Xochicalco and Teotihuacn.
Visiting Mexico has its challenges. Language is a big one for those who dont speak a word of Spanish; food and water can cause problems if youre not careful; crime is a concern in parts of the country; and even altitude and pollution play a role, depending on where you are. No guide can promise a safe, incident-free journey, but the prepared visitor, with a little savvy and a lot of common sense, should be able to enjoy a wonderful and memorable vacation in this country.
Of course, the history of ancient Mexico is the major focus of this book, and I hope it proves a fascinating chronicle of civilizations that flourished before the New World collided with the Old. It is a history rife with conquest, tragedy, heroism, legends, and colorful gods. And its a testament to a peoples scientific and astronomic breakthroughs, artistic achievements, and a religion so complex that a full pantheon of gods governed the fate of kings and peasants alike. You will find great mystery in ancient Mexico, the sudden rise and unexplained collapse of mighty cities, the enigma of vanished peoples, and wondrous relics. And best of all, perhaps, you will find the customs and traditions of the past alive and well in the present.
PRICES
Mexico offers a vacation for every budget, whether youre a backpacker visiting Mexicos ruins by bus and hostel, or enjoying a string of five-star resorts as you fly around the country. Its museums and ruins are affordable for virtually every tourist, and food choices will range from under-a-dollar tacos to restaurants that will challenge the deepest pockets. As for entertainment, the sky, and the water, are the limits.
Because prices are elastic and can vary greatly by region, Ive used the following chart when reviewing lodging, dining, attractions, and shopping options around the country. While central Mexico is not subject to seasonal fluctuations in its tourist pricing, the coastal areas certainly have peak seasons, with spikes during major holidays.
Note that prices listed in the book do not include taxes or gratuities. Tipping follows its own customs in Mexico. A taxi driver does not generally expect a tip but will appreciate one all the same. Porters and other hotel staff should be tipped for their services, and at restaurants, a 10 to 15 percent tip is standard. Make sure to check your bill at restaurants, as some include the service charge.
Price Guide
CONTENTS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
E very writer owes his or her book to a silent army of people who, in one form or another, help see it to fruition. I wish I could thank everyone who gave their time, effort, and hospitality to introducing me to Mexicos Aztec and Maya empires. But this abbreviated list must suffice.
Special thanks go to Kim Grant, who loved the idea of this book, and Kermit Hummel, who commissioned it. Sylvie Laitres outstanding service, Mexico Boutique Hotels, was an invaluable resource and asset in virtually every part of my journey in Mexico, and Roco Martnez Quintal convinced me to visit Holbox. Claire Kunzman introduced me to the efficient and well-run Grupo Posadas.
My friends Sebastian, Maria Cristina, and Javier helped me navigate the wonderful jungle of Mexico City. The tourism board of Yucatn, with the help of Humberto Gmez, helped me discover their unforgettable state, and Mario Arturo Garrido (not to mention Rita and her dad!) showed me the Yucatn Id never have known on my own (special thanks to Itzel for that). I owe a huge debt of gratitude to Agustn Ballesteros for putting me in touch with Israel Kumul, who was an invaluable asset in Cancn and the Riviera Maya.
In Chiapas, Adriana Alarcn was an incredible host, both knowledgeable and wonderful company throughout my time there. And it was thanks to Sheila, Lourdes, and Wilberth that I got to know Campeche.
To my parents, without whom I would never have become a writer, and my sister, without whom I would never have fallen in love with Mexico. And finally, to Saira, who endures and supports the chaos of my writing.
INTRODUCTION
T here are about 40,000 registered archaeological sites in Mexico. Take a moment to absorb that statistic: Its an astounding record of over three thousand years of civilization. Of these sites, only 174 are open to the public as of this printing. These range from uninspiring mounds that leave nearly everything to the imagination to towering structures that humble its visitors. Whereas the Aztecs ruled from central Mexico, the Maya empire clustered around the central and southern parts of the country, especially in the Yucatn peninsula, and spanned far beyond Mexicos present-day borders. Before either made their mark, their forerunners settled in Mexico, and left indelible traces of their existence.
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