Norman Collie - Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges

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Images of the original pages are available through Internet Archive. See https://archive.org/details/climbingonhimala00collrich

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CLIMBING ON THE HIMALAYA AND
OTHER MOUNTAIN RANGES

Printed at the Edinburgh University Press,
by T. and A. Constable ,

FOR
DAVID DOUGLAS.

LONDONSIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT AND CO., LTD.

CAMBRIDGEMACMILLAN AND BOWES.

GLASGOWJAMES MACLEHOSE AND SONS.

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Stormy Sunset

A Stormy Sunset.

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CLIMBING ON
THE HIMALAYA

AND
OTHER MOUNTAIN RANGES

BY

J. NORMAN COLLIE, F.R.S.

MEMBER OF THE ALPINE CLUB

EDINBURGH

DAVID DOUGLAS

1902

All rights reserved

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PREFACE

After a book has been written, delivered to the publisher, and the proofs corrected, the author fondly imagines that little or no more is expected of him. All he has to do is to wait. In due time his child will be introduced to the world, and perhaps an enthusiastic public, by judicious comments on the virtues of the youngster, will make the parent proud of his offspring.

Before, however, this much-desired event can take place, custom demands that a preface, or an introduction of the aforesaid youngster to polite society, must be written. Unfortunately also the parent has to compile a list or index of the various items of his progeny's belongings that are of interest; so that nothing be left undone that may be of service to the young fellow, what time he makes his bow before a critical audience. In books on travel, nowadays, it is customary often somewhat to scamp this necessary duty, and, after a few remarks in the preface, on subjects not always of absorbing interest, to conclude with the hope that the reader will be as interested in the description of places he has never seen as the author has been in writing about them.

Of course, formerly these matters were better managed. In the 'Epistle Dedicatorie,' the author would at once begin with:'To the most Noble Earle'then with many apologies, all in the best English and most perfect taste, he, under the patronage of the aforesaid Noble Earle, would launch his venture on to the wide seas of publicity, or perhaps growing bolder, would put forth his wares with some such phrases as the following:'And now, oh most ingenuous reader! can you find narrated many adventures, both on the high mountains of the earth, and in far countries but little known to the vulgar. Here are landscapes brought home, and so faithfully wrought, that you must confess, none but the best engravers could work them. Here, too, may'st thou find described diverse parts of thine own native land.'

'Choose that which pleaseth thee best. Not to detain thee longer, farewell; and when thou hast considered thy purchase, may'st thou say, that the price of it was but a charity to thyself, so not ill spent.'

J. N. C.

16 Campden Grove ,
London, 24th March 1902

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NOTE

Four of the chapters in this book have appeared before in the pages of the Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal (A Chuilionn, Wastdale Head, A Reverie, and the Oromaniacal Quest). They all, however, have been partly rewritten, so the author trusts that he may be excused for offering to the public wares which are not entirely fresh.

The Fragment from a Lost MS., and part of the chapter on the Lofoten Islands, were first printed in the Alpine Journal.

The author also takes this opportunity of thanking Mr. Colin B. Phillip, first, for allowing photogravure reproductions to be made of two of his pictures (The Coolin and the Macgillicuddy's Reeks), and secondly, for the great trouble Mr. Phillip took in producing the three sketches of the Himalayan mountains which are to be found in the text.

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CONTENTS.

The Himalaya
CHAP.	PAGE
I.	General History of Mountaineering in the Himalaya,
II.	Our Journey out to Nanga Parbat,
III.	The Rupal Nullah,
IV.	First Journey to Diamirai Nullah and the Diamirai Pass,
V.	Second Journey to Diamirai Nullah and Ascent to 21,000 feet,
VI.	Ascent of the Diamirai Peak,
VII.	Attempt to ascend Nanga Parbat,
VIII.	The Indus Valley and Third Journey to Diamirai Nullah

The Canadian Rocky Mountains ,

The Alps ,

The Lofoten Islands ,

A Chuilionn ,

The Mountains of Ireland ,

Prehistoric Climbing near Wastdale Head ,

A Reverie ,

The Oromaniacal Quest ,

Fragment from a Lost MS. ,

Notes on the Himalayan Mountains ,

Index ,

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A Stormy Sunset ,
A Himalayan Camp ,	To face page
A Himalayan Nullah	" "
The Diamirai Pass from the Red Pass ,	" "
The Mazeno Peaks from the Red Pass ,	" "
The Diamirai Peak from the Red Pass ,	" "
View of the Diamirai Peak from the Red Pass ,	" "
On Nanga Parbat, from Upper Camp ,	" "
Nanga Parbat from the Diamirai Glacier ,	" "
Do. Do. Do. ,	" "
View of Diama Glacier from Slopes of Diamirai Peak ,	" "
The Diama Pass from the Rakiot Nullah ,	" "
The Chongra Peaks from the Red Pass ,	" "
The Freshfield Glacier ,	" "
A Crevasse on Mont Blanc ,	" "
Lofoten ,	" "
The Coolin ,	" "
The Macgillicuddy's Reeks ,	" "

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LIST OF MAPS

Map of Kashmir ,	To face page
Map of Nanga Parbat ,	" "
Canadian Rocky Mountains .
Map of the Ice-fields and the Mountains ,	" "

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CHAPTER I

GENERAL HISTORY OF MOUNTAINEERING IN THE HIMALAYA

'Let him spend his time no more at home, Which would be great impeachment to his age In having known no travel in his youth.' Shakespeare.

At some future date, how many years hence who can tell? all the wild places on the earth will have been explored. The Cape to Cairo railway will have brought the various sources of the Nile within a few days' travel of England; the endless fields of barren ice that surround the poles will have yielded up their secrets; whilst the vast and trackless fastnesses of that stupendous range of mountains which eclipses all others, and which from time immemorial has served as a barrier to roll back the waves of barbaric invasion from the fertile plains of Hindustanthese Himalaya will have been mapped, and the highest points in the world above sea-level will have been visited by man. Most certainly that time will come. Yet the Himalaya, although conquered, will remain, still they will be the greatest range of mountains on earth, but will their magnitude, their beauty, their fascination, and their mystery be the same for those who travel amongst them? I venture to think not: for it is unfortunately true that familiarity breeds contempt.

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