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Walter Wood - A Corner of Spain

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A CORNER OF SPAIN Illustration GALICIAS GOLDEN SANDS GALICIAS GOLDEN - photo 1


A CORNER
OF SPAIN

Illustration: GALICIA'S GOLDEN SANDS

GALICIA'S GOLDEN SANDS

A CORNER
OF SPAIN
BY WALTER WOOD
WITH AN INTRODUCTION
BY MARTIN HUME

ILLUSTRATED IN COLOUR AND
LINE FROM PICTURES BY
FRANK H. MASON, R.B.A.
AND WITH NUMEROUS
REPRODUCTIONS
FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
NEW YORK
JAMES POTT & CO.
LONDON: EVELEIGH NASH
1910

Printed by Ballantyne & Co. Limited
Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London

PREFACE
This book does not pretend to be a history or a complete record of Galicia. Its purpose is to show something of the life and character of a little-known part of Spain, and to deal with things seen and done by the visitor who travels under competent and comfortable guidance. I have written either of what I experienced or on the authority of prominent residents with whom I came in contact in my wanderings.

CONTENTS
Introduction
CHAPTER I
Galicia and Its People
The Real Galicia : The Hundred Maidens : The Glory of the North-West : Granite Hills : Gallegans and their Lives : Pigeon-cots and Maize-barns : The Night-watchman's Chant : Civil Guards and Constables : A Modest Breakfast : Eating and drinking : The Waiter as a Gentleman : Enterprise and Open-air Life : The Blessed "To-morrow" : Cigarettes : The Unexpected : Photography : Wine and a Bibber : Across the Biscay
CHAPTER II
Vigo Bay and Hills
Sun-bound : Sharp Contrasts : Devil-fish and Ink-fish : Sardines : A Spanish Infant : Vigo's Enterprise : The Lazaretto : Treasure-ships : A Grandee's Home : A Fishing-town : Memento mori : Handling Catches : Clubs and Warships : A Russian Funeral : Emigrants : A Valley Town : The Press and a Distributor : Borrow's Vigo
CHAPTER III
Spain's Jerusalem
Galicia's Patron Saint : Pilgrims and Pestilence : A Holy City : A Monumental History : Noisy Students : The Fascination of the Cathedral : Precious Relics : A Wealth of Silver : The Compostela : St. James's Sepulchre : The Gate of Glory : The Mighty Censer : Religious Festivals : Our Lady of the Rosary : St. James's Day Festivities : The Way of Blood and Tears : Medival Night : From Pilgrims' Hill
CHAPTER IV
Things Seen
More Contrasts : Bewildering Baedeker : A Galician Vineyard : Sabbath Peace : Wayside Inns : Security of Travel : Brawny Brigands : A Sonorous Tongue
CHAPTER V
The Atlantic Coast and the Frontier
Romantic Scenery : A Blighted Town : British Enterprise : The Napoleonic Wars : A Quaint Old Place : Galicia's Fjords : A Remarkable Lighthouse : Down to Portugal : Friendly Sentries : The Glories of the Mio : Orense and its Famous Bridge
CHAPTER VI
Locomotion
The Diligence : Railways : Galicia's Rolling-stock : The Solemnity of Journeying by Train : Motor-cars and Motor-buses : Beauty in the Saddle : Shocks in Travelling : "Drummers" of the North-West : Cycles and a Freak
CHAPTER VII
Mondariz
An Alluring Hotel : Beneficent Waters : A Noble Building : Pine Hills and Trout-streams : A Splendid Pump-room : The Logan of Arcos : Sobroso's Ruins : Creaking Bullock-carts : Peaceful Prospects
CHAPTER VIII
Galicia's Burden-bearers
The Woman with the Coffin : Women and Weights : Wages and Rent : My Pretty Maid : Hairdressing : Universal Washing : A Galician Funeral
CHAPTER IX
Arosa Bay and La Toja
A Favourite Anchorage for British Warships : Roman Remains : Religious Prisoners : Cortegada and the King of Spain : An Attractive Workhouse : Borrow and the Bible : An Arcaded Town : Columbus and his Ships : The Haunt of the Wolf : The Island of La Toja : A Wonderful Cure : Golf
CHAPTER X
Corunna and its Hero
The Most Happy and Invincible Armada : Modern Corunna : The Miradores : Wellington, Napoleon, and the Gallegans : The Peninsular War : The Tragedy of Moore's Retreat to Corunna : A Butchered Rearguard : Marvellous Marching : The Last Stand : Moore's Death : His Burial on Corunna's Ramparts
Index

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
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(colour)Frontispiece
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Illustration: A LAND OF MOUNTAIN AND FLOOD
A LAND OF MOUNTAIN AND FLOOD

INTRODUCTION
I stood upon the salient bastion of an ancient fortress towering high above a swift and placid river. Below and around me swept line upon line of crumbling walls and grass-grown moats, the scene of many a bloody struggle in the evil days of old. From a hundred grim embrasures peeped rusty cannon, harmless now, and dark-eyed children sported upon the battlements that once had belched defiance and destruction to the foe across the stream. For this old white town, cramped within its triple ramparts, is the last vantage ground of Portugal; and on the other side of the Mio straight before me is Galicia, the unconquered land of the Gael, a land of mountain and flood, of mist and sunlight, such as are all the western promontories in which the mysterious Celtic people have finally found a home after ages of unrecorded wanderings.
The scene as I looked upon it from these old battlements of Valena is as fair as any that Europe can offer. Down in the valley on both sides of the stream the maize-fields are reddening in the autumn sun, and between them, and terraced on the hill slopes above them, vines, heavy now with great masses of black grapes, are trained over slender posts of grey granite, forming endless arcades of fruit and foliage. Then higher up, climbing the steep skirts of the mountains, vast forests of darkling pines throw into relief the majestic summits, bare and boulder-strewn, upon which the ardent southern sunlight glows and quivers, whilst deep purple shadows fleck the tints of old rose and cinnamon where the sunlight falls. Across the majestic iron bridge that spans the Mio, the one modern note in all this scene, there rises an ancient city clustered upon a rise crowned by square battlemented towers. Some old feudal fortress it would seem; but closer acquaintance proves it to be a Christian cathedral built at a time when bishops girt the sword and donned their armour to fight the infidel and defend their faith with their lives.
Tuy, the first city of Galicia, is a relic of a past age. Its tortuous narrow streets, mere alleys a few feet wide, are like those of the prehistoric Celtic city of Citania in Portugal: deep channels worn in the living rock and patched where necessary with flat slabs. The city itself is as silent as the grave, and the frowning old castle-cathedral, with its tinkling bell calling to worship, almost alone indicates the presence of the living. A medival writer calls Tuy "lately a city of pagans," but for well upon ten centuries now the brave old Romanesque church has stood aloft unmoved like a cliff to resist the incursions of the enemies of the Church. But Tuy, quaint and suggestive of thought as it is, can hardly be considered a typical Galician city; for the best and most picturesque regions of Galicia are those which surround the glorious fjords cut deep into the land that entitles the little "Kingdom" to be called the Norway of Spain.
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