Sarah Veblen - First Time Garment Fitting: The Absolute Beginners Guide - Learn by Doing * Step-by-Step Basics + 8 Projects

Although styles change and clothing fads come and go, the hallmarks of well-fitting clothes remain the same:

There are no unintended pulls or folds in the fabric.

The fabric falls smoothly over the body.

The garment is proportionate to the wearers body.

The cut of the garment is flattering.

When wearing clothes that fit, we not only present ourselves better, but we feel more comfortable. And when we feel at ease in our clothes, we think more clearly, interact with other people better, and approach the days challenges and pleasures with a healthier attitude. There is no need to feel squirmy in your clothes, counting the minutes until you can get home and change into your comfy sweats. It all starts with getting a good fit.

Fitting is complicated, in part because it doesnt stand alone. Rather, it must be tackled within the larger framework of all that is required to make a garment, from design to pattern development. To achieve success, you must have the following:

A fitting method to follow

An understanding of good fitting practices

An understanding of good patternmaking practices

The ability to recognize specific fitting issues

The ability to put these specific issues within the context of the garment as a whole

This book is organized so that the information builds from one section to the next. In the first and second sections, I describe the conceptual foundation. In the third section, I provide detailed information for making fitting changes to your pattern. And in the final section, I show how to fit a skirt, a bodice with darts, and a bodice with shoulder princess seams.

Even though fitting is complicated, with patience and guidance, everyone can learn to fit.

Being a competent fitter requires both a conceptual and a practical understanding of the fitting process. Skipping the concepts and going straight to the fitting examples is like trying to build a house without first laying its foundation. Just as the house will develop cracks, your fitting will have weaknesses, which will cause confusion and less-than-perfect results.

Any skill requires training. Fitting requires training the eye to recognize what good fit is and what indicates a poor fit. For example, a novice often doesnt notice drag lines until they are pointed out. With practice, the eye becomes trained first to see the obvious fitting problems and eventually then to discern nuances. A good way to train your eye is to observe peoples clothes wherever you go, from your work environment to stops at the grocery store.

WHY FITTING IS COMPLICATED

Once the fitting problem is identified, it must be corrected. This requires knowing how to manipulate the cloth. However, the fitting problem cannot be dealt with out of context; it must be solved within the framework of the garment as a whole. In addition, the cloth must be manipulated in a manner that allows the change to be made in the pattern. As your fitting skills improve, your knowledge of pattern work will improve as well due to the interrelationship between fitting and pattern manipulation.

Obtaining a good fit is a process, rarely a one-shot experience. It takes time, patience, and usually multiple muslins to develop a perfect fit. Most sewers think the process is worthwhile, since the end result is that perfectly fitting pattern youve dreamed of.

Fitting yourself is possible but often time consuming. Accurately assessing a muslin on your own body is more difficult than making good observations on someone else. Its helpful to have a dress form that reflects your body; working with a fitting buddy can help even more. Two sets of eyes are useful when learning to identify fitting problems, and you can collaborate on figuring out the best solution. Plus, you can fit each other.

EACH INDIVIDUAL IS UNIQUE

Since no two bodies are exactly the same, fitting requires individualized problem solving. Fitting instructions will get you started, but they are generalized descriptions of a situation and a typical solution. You must then apply this information to the person being fitted. This requires experimenting with and interpreting the fitting instructions. Fitting is easier and more successful when you work with the cloth on the individuals body rather than insisting that a fitting rule be applied in a preordained manner.

Although picture-perfect bodies can depict standardized fitting solutions, very few of us have such bodies. This book is comprised of real fitting situations that are characteristic of typical fitting issues. The models are ordinary people with everyday lumps and bumps. Your own body might not be represented by these particular models, but you will find fitting examples throughout the book that are similar to your fitting problems.

In addition to finding solutions to fitting issues, a good fitter also needs a way to reflect on and approach the problems. This book provides a methodology that will help you interpret specific fitting examples and then apply the information to your own fitting issues, leading you to the best solution for your situation. The end result is beautifully fitting clothes.

pattern and fitting basics

Commercial patterns provide a lot of information to help the sewer make an educated selection when choosing a pattern and to assist the sewer when making the garment. Understanding the pattern envelope and its contents is the first step toward using patterns successfully.

FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND A PATTERN

Almost all commercial patterns include a guide sheet that includes a list of pattern pieces, a description of pieces to use for specific views, fabric cutting layouts, seam allowance information, a key to reading the illustrations (how elements such as the right side and wrong side of the fabric are depicted), and step-by-step directions. Some patterns provide a short glossary of sewing terms, and some have helpful design tips.

In addition to these elements, some pattern envelopes also provide information such as a difficulty rating based on the sewing techniques required to make the garment, recommendations of figure types for the garment style, and stretch guides for knits-only patterns.