Lisa Dunford - Lonely Planet Central Europe

E-reader devices vary in their ability to show our maps. To get the most out of the maps in this guide, use the zoom function on your device. Or, visit http://media.lonelyplanet.com/ebookmaps and grab a PDF download or print out all the maps in this guide.

At once natural and refined, folksy and cultured: the combination of mountain rusticity with old-world lan captivates in Central Europe.

Teutonic half-timbered villages, sgraffito-decorated Renaissance squares, medieval walled townsif youre looking for old-world appeal, youve come to the right place. Wander the darkly Gothic alleyways of Prague, admire the baroque excess of Salz- burg or take in the colourful old-Venetian influence on the Slovenian port of Piran. Poland and the Czech Republic seem to have more than their fair share of medieval masterpieces, but you can find narrow lanes and quaint townscapes throughout the region from Bern, Switzerland to Bardejov, Slovakia. Smaller gems such as Bamberg, Germany are often far from the tourist radar. On mornings when the mists lie heavy and crowds are few, you might imagine yourself in an earlier century.

Nourishing yourself is more fun in a great atmosphere, and Central Europes abundance of outdoor cafes, beer halls and coffee houses offer just that. When the temperatures rise in spring, outdoor tables proliferate along with the daffodils and tulips. Enjoy a plate of pasta while admiring the Slovenian coast, nosh pierogi (dumplings) on a Polish cobblestone street or dip into fondue lakeside in Switzerland. Beer gardens across the region offer an opportunity to enjoy hearty food, a convivial atmosphere and a good brew alfresco. Once the weather cools, move inside to a boisterous beer hall. Or, for something a little sweeter, try a cake at a coffee house or pastry cafe. The most famous are in Vienna and Budapest, but youll find many options and other interesting places to eat and drink all across the region.

With mountains covering so many Central European states, its no wonder that the outdoors holds such an attraction in the region. The Alps rise to their highest in Switzerland, with jagged, Toblerone-like peaks such as the Matterhorn, and continue on through very southern Germany, across Austria and south into Slovenia. You can hike, bike, ski or just ride the gondolas and funiculars to enjoy the Alpine views. Other mountains, like the Swiss Jura and the PolishSlovak Tatras, offer no less adventure. There are also sculptural sandstone rock towns in the Czech Republic to climb, waterfall-filled gorges in Slovakia and Slovenia to hike and the bucolic Black Forest to walk in Germany. It seems that around every corner there is a new part of nature to explore.

Ride the cable car up Petn Hill () and admire the view of Prague, Czech Republic
CHRISTER FREDRIKSSON/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Sure, it graces Toblerone packages and evokes stereotypical Heidi scenes, but nothing prepares you for the allure of the Matterhorn. As soon as you step into the timber-chalet-filled village of Zermatt ( ), this loner looms above you, mesmerising with its chiselled, majestic peak. Gaze at it from a tranquil sidewalk cafe, hike in its shadow along the tangle of Alpine paths above town, with cowbells clinking in the distance, or pause on a ski slope and admire its magnetic stance.

Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland
MARTIN MOOS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Singing in Salzburg

A fortress on a hill, 17th-century cobbled streets, Mozart, the ultimate singalong: if Salzburg ( ) didnt exist, someone would have to invent it just to keep all the acolytes who visit each year happy. Its hard to say whats more popular, but you just have to see all the DVDs for sale to know that this is Sound of Music country. Faster than you can say Do-Re-Mi you can be whisked into the gorgeous steep hills that are alive with tour groups year-round.

MANFRED GOTTSCHALK/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Beer-Drinking in Munich

Its not just the idea that you can drink beer in Munich ( ) everybody knows you can. Its the variety of places where you can drink that astounds and makes this a must-stop. Theres Oktoberfest, of course, and then there are the famous beer halls, from the huge and infamous (Hofbruhaus) to the huge and merely wonderful (Augustiner Brustuben). And why stay inside for your frothy, refreshing litre of lager? You can drink it in a park (Chinesischer Turm) or in the city centre (Viktualienmarkt) or really just about anywhere.

DAN HERRICK/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Exploring Prague

Prague Castle and Old Town Square are highlights of the Czech capital ( ), but for a more insightful look at life two decades after the Velvet Revolution, head to local neighbourhoods around the centre. Working-class ikov and energetic Smchov are crammed with pubs, while elegant, tree-lined Vinohrady features a diverse menu of cosmopolitan restaurants. Gritty Holeovice showcases many forms of art, from iconic works from the last century to more recent but equally challenging pieces.

Staromstsk nm (Old Town Square), Prague, Czech Republic
GLENN VAN DER KNIJFF/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Discovering Krakw

As popular as it is, Polands former royal capital ( ) never disappoints. Its hard to pinpoint exactly why its so special, but theres a satisfying aura of history radiating from the sloping stone buttresses of the medieval buildings in the Old Town that makes its streets seem, well, just right. Add to that the extremes of a spectacular castle and the low-key, oh-so-cool bar scene situated within the tiny worn buildings of the Kazimierz backstreets, and its a city you want to seriously get to know.

Main Market Square (Rynek Gwny), Krakw, Poland
BRUCE BI/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Admiring Imperial Vienna

Imagine having unlimited riches and top architects at your hands for 640 years thats the Vienna ( ), both set in exquisite landscaped gardens.