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Michael Myers Shoemaker - Winged Wheels in France

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Tomb of Agnes Sorel at LochesTOMB OF AGNES SOREL AT LOCHES By permission of - photo 1
Tomb of Agnes Sorel at Loches
TOMB OF AGNES SOREL AT LOCHES
By permission of Mansell & Co.

Title Page
WINGED WHEELS
IN FRANCE
BY
MICHAEL MYERS SHOEMAKER
Author of "Islands of Southern Seas," "The Great Siberian
Railway," "The Heart of the Orient," "Prisons
and Palaces of Mary, Queen
of Scots," Etc.
ILLUSTRATED
Title Page Decoration
G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS
NEW YORK AND LONDON
The Knickerbocker Press
1906

Copyrighted 1906 by
Michael Myers Shoemaker

TO
My Dear Friend
Mrs. W. P. HULBERT
of Cincinnati

PREFACE
This is not a love story. These wings are wings of motion, not of Cupid, yet there is much of romance and story in these pages,for who can travel the plaisant pays de France and not dip deeply into both?
When I entered my red machine at Nice no route had been laid out,to me there is small pleasure in travel when that is done,so I told Jean to start and left the direction to him. Being French he naturally turned towards his own country, and knowing whither the superb highways and enchanting byways could lead one, I tacitly agreed, and we glided away by the level sea and on into the olive-crowned hill of Provence, to where Aixthe home of politenessdreams the years away and the air seems still to echo to King Ren's music. Arles, Narbonne, fantastic Carcassonne, Lourdes, and Pau followed in rapid succession, and then we rested awhile at Biarritz with short journeys into Spain. Turning northward we rolled off into Central France, pausing daily in some ancient city or quaint village, climbing mountains to long forgotten castles, or rolling into valleys in search of deserted abbeys.
So we wandered through Auvergne, through courtly Touraine, sad Anjou, and stormy Brittany, until Normandy and Picardy smiled into our faces and Paris received us within her gates. Exploring the surroundings of that great city as one can do only in an auto, we finally glided off through the forest of Fontainebleau and Cte-d'Or to the mountains of the Vosges and thence over the Schlucht to the Rhine Valley to Freiburg, and up to Baden-Baden. There the spirits of the woods seized upon us and we promptly got lost in the Black Forest, and so rolled on into Switzerland to Geneva and finally to Aix-les-Bains, where the journey ended and I bade goodbye to my staunch car which had carried me without mishap or delay for near five thousand miles. To its winged wheels the highest mountains of France were no barrier.
If all this pleases you, read these pagesif not, drop the book.
M. S. M.
Union Club, N. Y.
June, 1906.

CONTENTS
Page
Monte Carlo1
Our Departure from NiceThe Road to AixThe City of King Ren8
The Road to ArlesThe CamargueRuins of ArlesThe "Aliscamps"17
The Route to TarasconCastle of King RenBeaucaireNmesMontpellierAn AccidentNarbonne, Ancient and Modern22
The Approach to CarcassonneIts PicturesquenessIts Restoration and History29
The Route to ToulouseGreat Machines on the Roads of FranceDelights of an AutoToulouseIts UniversityThe Chteau de St. Elix36
The Death of a DogEncounters on the HighwayTravellers by the WayPeople of the ProvincesLourdesHer Superstition and her Visions43
Pau and the Life thereDelightful RoadsAncient OrthezMadame and her HotelThe Chteau of Bidache and its History49
The Route to BiarritzBiarritzThe Htel du Palais58
The Road to the MountainsSt. Jean-Pied-de-PortSt. Jean-de-LuzMarriage of Louis xivIsland of PheasantsThe Roads in SpainThe Soldiers of SpainSan Sebastian62
Departures for the NorthCrazy ChickensGrand RoadsDaxRides through the ForestsFrench Scenery and PeopleMarmandeAutomobile Club of France and its Work69
Rapid MotionBeaumontRaces and DashesCadouin and its CloistersThe Route to Tulle76
The Great Course of BelmontDifficult SteeringThe "Cup Gordon Bennett"The Mountains to Clermont-Ferrand82
Climbing a Mountain in an AutoThe Chteau of TournolIts HistoryDescent of the Mountain86
Ancient Town of RiomThe Route to VichyChteau de Bourbon-BussetVichyThe Life thereDanger of SpeedingArrival at Bourges95
Ancient BourgesIts CathedralHouse of Jacques CurLouis XI. and the Htel LallementThe Htel CujasThe Ride to MeillantIts Superb ChteauIts Legend102
Departures from BourgesThe Chteau of MehunThe Death of Charles VIIThe Valleys of TouraineRoads by the LoireEntrance to Tours113
Ride to LochesAn AccidentThe Castle of LochesIts HistoryThe Cages of Louis XI.Their Cost to the KingAgnes SorelThe Mistresses of French Kings versus their Queens116
Automobiles in ToursDeparture from the CityThe Road to ChinonRomance and History of ChinonThe Abbey of FontevraultRichard Cur de Lion and his TombThe Dead King Henry II130
The Road to AngersCathedral and Tomb of King RenCastle of Black AngersCradle of the PlantagenetsHistoryTo Chateaubriant in a StormA French InnRennes and the Trial of DreyfusThe Roads in BrittanyArrival at St.-MaloThe Ride to Mont St.-MichelInn of the Poulard inThe Cathedral and CastleTheir History138
Arrival at CaenWilliam the Norman and Charlotte CordayChurch of St. tiennePeople and Railroads of NormandyRouen and its ChurchesThe Maid of Orleans, History or Legend?Castle of Philippe Le BelDeparture from Rouen149
The Race through PicardyAmiens CathedralIts VastnessThe Road to Boulogne161
The Ride to BeauvaisDead DogsGreat ChurchesBeauvais by NightVast Wealth of the Churches of FranceWonderful Tapestries166
The Route to Saint-Germain-en-LayeThe PeopleThe Castle and TerraceTheir Picturesque HistoryFirst View of Paris174
Paris and her so-called Republican GovernmentNecessity for an AutomobileThe Ride to ChartresCathedral Notre DameThe Aqueduct at Maintenon and its Burden of SorrowThe Castle of MaintenonMadame and Louis XIV.St. Cyr and her DeathReturn to Paris180
My Chauffeur Summoned by the GovernmentThe New ManYama's Opinion of ParisSpeed of Autos in Paris194
Departure from ParisThe Cemetery of the PicpusRide through the Forest of Fontainebleau to SensThe CathedralTomb of the DauphinsThe Great Route to GenevaStoned by BoysTonnerre198
DijonThe French and Fresh WaterThe Antiquities of DijonRide through the Cte d'OrArrival at Besanon208
The Fortress of BesanonAutos in Heavy RainsDreamsBelfortEntrance into the VosgesThe Rise to Ballon d'AlsaceSuperb Ride to Grardmer215
Grardmer and the MountainsA WeddingFrench CourtshipExcursion to St. DiOver the Col de la SchluchtGerman Custom House"Always a German"ColmarRhine ValleyArrival at Freiburg222
FreiburgFantastic CityThe Youths of GermanyMusic and Legends of the Old TownCathedral by Moonlight227
From Freiburg to Baden-BadenThrough the Woods to GernsbachSuperb RoadsPeople of the Black ForestCrossing the DanubeCustoms Regulations as to AutosAn Old Swiss MansionThe Ride to Geneva and Aix-les-Bains232
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